Buying 2008 AR230 - quick inspection questions

[grady dagenais]

So just seeing if someone can provide a quick response to 2 questions.
Background: just sold 2005 AR210 to upgrade and have deal 95% finalized for 2008 AR230.

Problem: I need to decide over next 2 weeks when I go see/inspect it.
Based on time of year in the northeast no water trial really feasible.

I have access with water for 1/2 a day and plan to check:
- compression
- bilge
- cable action
- plugs and oil levels (oil in filter)
- hook up water and run engines
- general hull and interior conditions

Question:
1.) How can I assess load on the motors?
Does the compression check basically account for that?
(Range should be what 180-200 psi +/- 5-10% of each other with 125 hours?)
And as part of this can I test no-wake mode?

2.) is there a way to test the depth finder on the trailer? Mirror/reflect signal? I don’t know I’m just seeing if someone has a solution.

I was contemplating getting the software and cable as well.
I’m pretty mechanical and have rebuilt car engines and such so I’m not worried about doing it.

Anything I am forgetting?

Thanks in advance!

Grady

 

[Julian]

I'd be very hesitant to buy a boat without a water test. Can you make it contingent on passing a water test?

I would definitely get the YDS software to read the engines!

#1- no easy way to confirm load
#2-can't test the depth finder out of the water from what I know

 

[buckbuck]

Congratulations on your find of a AR230 with only 125 hours. Sounds like you have been doing some research here.
It is unlikely you will have any problem with the MR-1 motors as they are quite reliable. But the best way to test them is put the boat in the water and hammer on them. The depth finder is likely not to work. Plan on buying a better one, for instance a Faria with water and air temps. No wake issues usually are from low battery voltage or corrosion on the switch contacts. I believe @Scottintexas has compiled a bunch of info to look at on the 230 boats. I'll see if I can find it.

 

[buckbuck]

Here ya go
https://jetboaters.net/threads/known-issues-for-boat-years-2003-2009-with-mr1-engines.15464/

 

[Beachbummer]

Include:

Clean out plug operation and condition
Ladder operation and over bending under boat
Trailer Rust and wheel play. To get a baseline I would redo bearings and races to be safe on the road.
Trailer brakes.
Upholstery condition and price. Redo can be big bucks, so use leverage to negotiate as needed.

YDS is very helpful as it shows how it was used and any alarms.

Best of luck. I upgraded to 2008 SX230 Oct 16, and it was a great decision. Mine was not too well maintained, but I got it for a great price, and I've tried my best to catch it up. So far so good. Only one major scare... Does not crank unless in neutral

 

[bronze_10]

I have an 08 and other than internal engine repair everything else is pretty easy to fix... as long as u like doing that stuff..

 

[OCMD]

Great boat. Where is the boat located? The NE is a large area. What is the asking price?

 

[Scottintexas]

glad to have you on board,

A pwc shop should be able to run the YDS codes for you if you don't want to buy one.

no way to load test the engines out of the water, if they rev to 10k (only do it for a second on the hose) your probably ok but I'd feel better with a water test, sometimes missing or loose sealant can cause cavitation and you won't know that till your in the water or maybe he's got bad impellers or ??? depends on how you feel about the seller

I wouldn't worry about the depth gauge as others said, if it's stock, it's probably ready to be changed anyways.

 

[zipper]

@grady dagenais where are you/boat at in the NE? May be a member close by with a YDS that could run engine diagnostics for you.

 

[Impelled]

You can always dry start the engines, one at a time for a few seconds. Take a strong maglite or something and visually looks at the impellers for obvious dings ( take your time here). Eyeball the whole boat...it'll be obvious if treated like chit, expect the whole boat to be that way. Figure the depthfinder toast anyway. If it's a well cared for boat and your gut says get it.... Pull the Trigger! IMO... My 06 still thrills people when I launch at WOT!

 

[grady dagenais]

So took the risk without water trial (time of the season in New England).

Got the yds software - easy to use so was great.

Ram motors with hose to temp - only poked them to 10k rpms for a few seconds multiple times to see rev max and listen to impellers.

Then did comp test - all between 165-175 psi so from what I have seen this is pretty good and should be indicator of good health.

Hooked up yds and pulled hours 139.x each engine - 50 hrs at wake speeds / only 9 in the 10-12k Range. Most in the 6-8, then 8-10 range.

Here is the 1 thing I question (all things considered it didn’t keep me from buying it):
- diagnostic record showed only 1 code per engine - low oil level - 1 eng at 9 hrs but the other at 100 hrs of the 139.
- no sign of oil leaks in bay
- compression test seems good per above
- no smoke while running of hose 10 min
- seller was surprised at hours since first owner said it was low but they had no way to confirm
- seller was surprised at low oil situation
- no mal or oil pressure lights on dash
- checked oil level / it was low so?

Anyone have any insight maybe on this for what I can check?

My plan at first opportunity, is to:
- change oil / filters
- run on water for water trial / check out
- inspect levels / for leaks etc
- change oil / filters again for season

 

[jcyamaharider]

So took the risk without water trial (time of the season in New England).

Got the yds software - easy to use so was great.

Ram motors with hose to temp - only poked them to 10k rpms for a few seconds multiple times to see rev max and listen to impellers.

Then did comp test - all between 165-175 psi so from what I have seen this is pretty good and should be indicator of good health.

Hooked up yds and pulled hours 139.x each engine - 50 hrs at wake speeds / only 9 in the 10-12k Range. Most in the 6-8, then 8-10 range.

Here is the 1 thing I question (all things considered it didn’t keep me from buying it):
- diagnostic record showed only 1 code per engine - low oil level - 1 eng at 9 hrs but the other at 100 hrs of the 139.
- no sign of oil leaks in bay
- compression test seems good per above
- no smoke while running of hose 10 min
- seller was surprised at hours since first owner said it was low but they had no way to confirm
- seller was surprised at low oil situation
- no mal or oil pressure lights on dash
- checked oil level / it was low so?

Anyone have any insight maybe on this for what I can check?

My plan at first opportunity, is to:
- change oil / filters
- run on water for water trial / check out
- inspect levels / for leaks etc
- change oil / filters again for season

I wouldn't be worried about the low oil warning. I had that one time and it taught me to just check it. There is still plenty of oil in the motor when the warning goes off.

 

[Bluewater272]

Could have just happened at an oil change and needed a little extra.

 

[swatski]

So took the risk without water trial (time of the season in New England).

Got the yds software - easy to use so was great.

Ram motors with hose to temp - only poked them to 10k rpms for a few seconds multiple times to see rev max and listen to impellers.

Then did comp test - all between 165-175 psi so from what I have seen this is pretty good and should be indicator of good health.

Hooked up yds and pulled hours 139.x each engine - 50 hrs at wake speeds / only 9 in the 10-12k Range. Most in the 6-8, then 8-10 range.

Here is the 1 thing I question (all things considered it didn’t keep me from buying it):
- diagnostic record showed only 1 code per engine - low oil level - 1 eng at 9 hrs but the other at 100 hrs of the 139.
- no sign of oil leaks in bay
- compression test seems good per above
- no smoke while running of hose 10 min
- seller was surprised at hours since first owner said it was low but they had no way to confirm
- seller was surprised at low oil situation
- no mal or oil pressure lights on dash
- checked oil level / it was low so?

Anyone have any insight maybe on this for what I can check?

My plan at first opportunity, is to:
- change oil / filters
- run on water for water trial / check out
- inspect levels / for leaks etc
- change oil / filters again for season

From what you are describing, it sounds like a solid purchase!

Congrats. I love those 2008-9 MY, best boats Yamaha has ever built.

--

 

[scokill]

Could have just happened at an oil change and needed a little extra.

Happens to me every couple of oil changes.

 

[grady dagenais]

Great that’s what I was hoping for - low oil isn’t no oil... so these motors do “consume” some oil then...like my BMW I guess. It eats about a liter every 2-3k mikes.

I did stick a hose into the tanks to “see” below the dipstick level and still 2-3” of oil in the tank so will hope for the best.

Thanks

 

[buckbuck]

Happens to me every couple of oil changes.

I have had it happen also.

 

[grady dagenais]

So what happens? You just don’t put enough in - 4.5l per motor? Or the low level switch trips and doesn’t reset?

Also recommendations for oil type/brand? Treatments?

 

[buckbuck]

Not sure. I got a warning about 450 hours ago. I just think it was a fluke.

I highly recommend running 10w-40 instead of 10w-30. I believe Yamaha updated it's recommendation to reflect that. When you run the MR-1's hard and get them hot you will get a low oil pressure alarm in the YDS at idle RPM's. It won't show on the dash or lock in a code. You just see it in real time or if you take a screen shot. That is why I went to 10w-40.

 

[AZ Native]

If the 2008 has the same intake and air filter configuration as the 2005 I had, you have to purposely keep the oil level low. If it is any higher than the tip of the dipstick the intake sucks oil into the air filter causing performance problems and ruining the filter. I learned the hard way on 2005 AR230 to not fill the oil to the full marks. It never happened but I could imagine a low oil light running the oil low.