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Clean out plug blowout and engine flood. Help!

Swat, if Im going for over $100 for a oil pump its gonna be electric. JM the reason I posted that oil extractor was the potential amount of times you might have to change the oil in the next week. Being electric you just attach to your starting battery and let it do its thing. Its ideal to have the oil warm but in this instance I would remove the contaminated oil and run it warm with the new oil.
I don’t think so.
The hand vacuum pump is superior, it’s fast, efficient, and requires no power attachments. Some models can be (de)pressurized with an ancillary use of a compressor but I really never saw the need.

I started using one when I had my Q7 TDI that required frequent and voluminous oil changes. I would highly recommend one of those, there are models under $100, mine I think was $120 and is a 15l - very large.

 
Im missing something, the non electric is 1.6l per minute and the one I posted says 3.7Gal per minute.
 
Im missing something, the non electric is 1.6l per minute and the one I posted says 3.7Gal per minute.
Well, I would consider either as fast enough.
(For me)

Edit: okay, just think about it for a second - you want to tell me you can suck 3.7gal of oil per minute through a tube small enough that it fits in the oil dip stick opening???
Something is always limiting and in this case I do not think it is the 1.6l per minute theoretical capacity.


 
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If you have any water in your oil add 1 pint of Dextron 2 transmission fluid to the oil as it will work as a catalyst to mix the water with the oil and make it easy to remove all the water with an oil change.
You’re positive 1 pint to the oil change?
 
So I have begun my first oil change. Both oil levels were almost to the “O” sign on the dipstick, which I guess is over flow

Also, oil filters were definitely milky.
Getting ready to add new oil back in with new filters.
How long do I run the engine with the new oil, until I change it again to make sure all water is out?
 
Swat, its all good, Im just saying it worked well for me and and I was happy I got it.
 
Like everyone else said, you may have to do this a couple of times per motor to get all of the water out. It isn't going to be a one and done.

What is a couple of hundred dollars in oil when you are saving your boat........
 
Everyone else agree to put transmission fluid into the oil? Just want to make sure
 
The trans fluid is deff an old school trick and will clean everything out for sure. Since chances are you will need to do at least 3 oil flushes its a good time to deploy that option in one of them.
 
So just flushed both engines with fresh oil and filter and freshwater. The starboard sounded good.
The port side ran good until I turned the water on and immediately had a check engine alert come up on the dash. It sounded like it was in fast idle or something, port was much louder than starboard .. any advice!?
 
Also when I’m just flushing the engines to mix the oil should I shift into gear or just let it idle for the 2-3 minutes?
 
your boat does not have a transmission. The "gear" just moves the gate in the back. It does not affect how the boat runs on the hose at all. Because cooling on the hose is marginal I would suggest idle or no wake RPMs while on the hose.
 
What about why the check engine light would be on for one and not the other
 
It doesn’t have a code just says check engine.
 
I’m confused ...when I start it for about 10 seconds without water at 9000 then came down to 4,000 then 1500 but if I add water stays around 1500 . Check engine light stays on
 
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