Ecoboost towing question

[dnicholas47]

I have a ‘15 Expedition with the 3.5 ecoboost. Bought it used and have had some shuddering issues. Misfire and lost power on the way to Norris Lake last week scared the piss out of me. Changed the plugs and coil packs and that seems to have solved it, but in all my research I saw some F150 forums that said they lockout 6th gear when towing. Do any of you guys do this? And did any of you have the shudder/misfire issue?

 

[Dixie Highway]

Does it not have tow mode on the trans? I had a ‘14 F150 same 6 speed trans used tow mode, no issues. Fords have had notoriously bad coils in recent years, my 05 Expedition with 5.4 was the last one I had that needed coils, my 5.0’s haven’t. Overall the Ecoboost seems to be a solid platform, I wouldn’t sweat it too much.

 

[dnicholas47]

Has the tow mode and I had it engaged. I didn’t lock out any gears and had never heard of doing it when towing until after my problem. Every 10 seconds or so the RPM’s would flutter and the engine would shudder. Gets real old, real fast, but not scary like losing power. The guys on the truck forum (towing campers) said they locked out 6th even in tow mode. I’m guessing you never do that either?

 

[Dixie Highway]

No I never lock out gears. In my new 2018 with the 10 speed, in tow mode I rarely get past 8th, only on a down grade or with a tail wind. The idea behind locking out a gear is to prevent you from going into the gear momentarily then back out. Probably keeps the trans cooler, but again I never do. Sounds like your issue may have been ignition related, coils fail worse when hot so towing is no good for that. I’d try to tow again with no misfire, my guess it will work better. I’ve never had an Ecoboost either so I can’t say what’s normal or not with those.

 

[SCP1]

No I never lock out gears. In my new 2018 with the 10 speed, in tow mode I rarely get past 8th, only on a down grade or with a tail wind. The idea behind locking out a gear is to prevent you from going into the gear momentarily then back out. Probably keeps the trans cooler, but again I never do. Sounds like your issue may have been ignition related, coils fail worse when hot so towing is no good for that. I’d try to tow again with no misfire, my guess it will work better. I’ve never had an Ecoboost either so I can’t say what’s normal or not with those.

I will ask a guy at our shop tomorrow he is a big Ecoboost guy so I’m sure he will have some thoughts.

 

[SCP1]

I will ask a guy at our shop tomorrow he is a big Ecoboost guy so I’m sure he will have some thoughts.

Sounds like the plugs are a common issue (in the 1st generation Ecoboost’s 3.5’s). Use tow haul mode and a if the engine is not missing you should be good to go, you shouldn’t need to lock it in 6th for what you are towing.

 

[Jonathan Pisarczyk]

Maybe some bad fuel? Try some premium next time.

 

[Bluewater272]

There was an issue with the intercoolers on some ecoboosts that resulted in water building up and occasionally causing a misfire/shudder issue like that. Solution was to drill a tiny weep hole. Here's a quick thread I found on it. I think it was only fixed in the 16/17 model years.
Drilled the intercooler drain 2011 F150 Ecoboost,

 

[Seadeals]

I started to experience shuddering at around 65k miles when under high power. I replaced the plugs and did find an arc trail (black line) in the insulator on one of the plugs. The new plugs solved the issue. The intercooler problems were on early generation trucks 2011, where the intercooler was not partially shielded. Water could get ingested but was still rare. I have the original (susceptible) confit and have never experienced that problem.

 

[dnicholas47]

There was an issue with the intercoolers on some ecoboosts that resulted in water building up and occasionally causing a misfire/shudder issue like that. Solution was to drill a tiny weep hole. Here's a quick thread I found on it. I think it was only fixed in the 16/17 model years.
Drilled the intercooler drain 2011 F150 Ecoboost,

I have read a bunch of these threads. Even found a couple specific to my car who said it worked. I’m about there. If new plugs and coils won’t solve the problem, I’m beginning to think drill it and if it doesn’t fix it I can always seal the hole. The alternative is for a mechanic to continue to trouble shoot costing $$$.

 

[Jameson Clark]

Plugs are notorious on Ecoboosts. I have a tuner on mine and change mine about every 30k miles.

I do not lock out 6th when towing my boat, however I do when towing my camper.

 

[Jameson Clark]

I have read a bunch of these threads. Even found a couple specific to my car who said it worked. I’m about there. If new plugs and coils won’t solve the problem, I’m beginning to think drill it and if it doesn’t fix it I can always seal the hole. The alternative is for a mechanic to continue to trouble shoot costing $$$.

I worked in service at a Ford dealer from 2006-2017. There was a problem with intercoolers but it doesn't sound like the problem you're having. I also don't believe it included later year models like yours. It was an early issue. Pretty much the intercooler would get moisture in it from cruising down the interstate for a long period of time under no real load, then when having to accelerate, it would pull that moisture into the intake and cough a bit. While towing, I can't see you having that issue since it gets in the boost pretty often. I'll see if I can find the TSB on it.

All that being said, throw some plugs in it and ride on.

EDIT: Here is the wording from the TSB. Only on the 11-12 F150s as well.

TSB 13-8-1

08/08/13

3.5L GTDI - INTERMITTENT STUMBLE/MISFIRE ON
ACCELERATION FROM HIGHWAY CRUISE IN HUMID
OR DAMP CONDITIONS WITH POSSIBLE DTC P0304,
P0305, P0306, OR P0430


FORD:
2011-2012 F-150


This article supersedes TSB 13-3-3 to update the Service Procedure and Part List.

ISSUE
Some 2011-2012 F-150 equipped with a 3.5L gasoline turbocharged direct injection (GTDI) Ecoboost engine may exhibit an intermittent stumble and/or misfire on hard acceleration after an extended drive at highway speeds during high humidity or damp conditions. This may result in either a steady or flashing malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0304, P0305, P0306, or P0430 may also be present. Evidence of misfire may be available in Misfire Freeze Frame Data even with no active DTCs.

 

[PEARCE]

Plugs are notorious on Ecoboosts. I have a tuner on mine and change mine about every 30k miles.

I do not lock out 6th when towing my boat, however I do when towing my camper.

View attachment 97156

That's a lot of TT for a 1/2 ton. What's the length and weight? Nice looking rig though!

 

[Jameson Clark]

That's a lot of TT for a 1/2 ton. What's the length and weight? Nice looking rig though!

Thanks! It's 38' and is about 9400lbs loaded.

 

[dnicholas47]

I put new plugs and coils in 2 weeks ago. Right off the bat 90% improvement on the regular shudder, which normally at all speeds 35 and up, but I didn’t get on the highway until last weekend. As soon as I hit 55-60 plus, here we go again. And it’s worse when climbing a grade, even if it’s slight. That’s why I am thinking of doing the weep hole. It’s almost at a “what do I have to lose?” point right now.

 

[Jameson Clark]

I put new plugs and coils in 2 weeks ago. Right off the bat 90% improvement on the regular shudder, which normally at all speeds 35 and up, but I didn’t get on the highway until last weekend. As soon as I hit 55-60 plus, here we go again. And it’s worse when climbing a grade, even if it’s slight. That’s why I am thinking of doing the weep hole. It’s almost at a “what do I have to lose?” point right now.

Did you check the gap on the plugs before installing them? Did you go back with Motorcraft plugs?

 

[dnicholas47]

I did Motorcraft plugs and coils. SP-534 I think the plugs were, all came gapped at .30.

 

[Jameson Clark]

I did Motorcraft plugs and coils. SP-534 I think the plugs were, all came gapped at .30.

That's good then. Right now, I'd say you have one coil going bad and dropping out under a load. Would be really easy to find with the right computer hooked to it. Ford dealer or good aftermarket shop can look at "Mode 6" data which counts misfires and be able to tell which coil is dropping out. Or they can watch a power balance and watch the misfire happen. If you want to avoid a shop altogether, there is an easy, but lengthy way to self diagnose. Buy one new coil and put it on cyl# 1 and go drive it. If the misfire is still there, put the old coil back on #1 since you just determined it wasn't the problem and move the new one to #2. Continue on until you find the culprit. Wish I was closer so I could help more. I definitely wouldn't replace all 6 coils though. They aren't cheap and that is excessive for what you have going on.

I would also absolutely not drill a hole in your intercooler. At that point, you are just introducing a boost leak into the system and it will not fix anything.

 

[dnicholas47]

Thank you so much for your help here. Unfortunately too late on replacing all 6 coils. They were $57/piece on Amazon and I was/am so frustrated I had an F-it moment and just bought all 6. I bought this thing used and didn't have many service records so it was also a lets just start over thing. I will take it in and see what the computer says and go from there. I will keep you posted and thanks again.

 

[Jameson Clark]

I apologize. Didn't realize you had already replaced the coils and plugs. I should've slowed down and read a little better. Let me know what the dealer or shop says. Sounds just like a coil breaking down.