Engine compartment insulation

[Marvin willis]

I wanna replace my engine compartment insulation and I'm just curious for the people that have done this wants the best product for the money. Mine is starting to deteriorate a little. Not bothered by the sound

 

[Gym]

@Marvin willis. I don't remember anybody on this site or the other replacing the OEM egg crate insulation. All I have seen is the noise insulation where some have covered that with the OEM stuff they carefully removed. I would think if you were going to the trouble of removing the OEM stuff you might as well re insulate with a noise attenuating product. I did find this stuff. http://www.thefoamfactory.com/acousticfoam/eggcratefoam.html It is fire retardant but I don't know what the marine standard is or if it will tolerate that environment.

 

[Marvin willis]

Wow. That is awesome. Way cheaper that what I've found so far

 

[Seadeals]

You might consider the heat and flame resistance properties of whatever you choose. I expect the OEM foam was chosen with that in mind compared with any 'ole egg crate foam.

 

[Ronnie]

Take a look at the specs on this web page. This is where I purchased the 1" thick material for my sound deadening/absorbing project. I also ended up,reinstalling the stock stuff over the new stuff. Figure a little more thickness couldn't hurt.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-foam-acoustical-insulation/=tqrfvg

 

[Ronnie]

I took a pic of the profiles of all the sound absorbing/deadening material I had or have used. The stock stuff is 3/8" thick it was in the underside of the engine compartment hatch. The other stock material on the forward facing wall of the engine compartment hatch is 3/4" thick. On my previous yjb I used 1" thick material with a foil face and a plastic base/divider. Last year I replaced the stock foam with 1" material with a foil face and self adhesive backing. Most recently I installed 2" thick (actually it measured 1.75") egg carton textured material over some of the foil faced material I installed last year. I also replaced the stock seal with pipe I insulation initially but this year I went with bulb seal (3/4" high and thick). So I've got at least 1" of material all the way around the engines and the front wall as well as the underside of the hatch are covered in almost 3" thick material. Regardless of the actual iPhone app decibel readings, I'm done with this mod.

 

[GTBRMC]

I also replaced the stock seal with pipe I insulation initially but this year I went with bulb seal (3/4" high and thick).

@Ronnie Do you have a link or spec/source for the bulb seal? Thanks.

 

[Scottintexas]

I don't know what Ronnie used but I had saved someone previously had recommended "p/n 93085k13 it is a 1/2" x 1/2" foam rubber seal with adhesive back. Cost is $0.66 a foot. I ordered 20 ft and had some left over"
http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-rubber-bulb-seal-gaskets/=wun7c3

 

[Ronnie]

I orders my bulb seal from McMastercarr as well. I am pretty sure I used this stuff (I.e, style 12, 3/4" wide , 3/4" high, $1.10 per foot). I bought 2o feet of it and used around 18 of it.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=wuoq4c

The pipe insulation worked fine but wore through in some spots in less than 2 seasons . It cost about the same as the bulb seal. The big problem I had was cleaning it all of to prep for the bulb seal. Pipe insulation is split length wise and has adhesive on both sides of the split. If anyone plans to use it I suggest that They only use the adhesive on one side and go with something thinner than 1".

 

[GTBRMC]

I orders my bulb seal from McMastercarr as well. I am pretty sure I used this stuff (I.e, style 12, 3/4" wide , 3/4" high, $1.10 per foot). I bought 2o feet of it and used around 18 of it.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=wuoq4c

The pipe insulation worked fine but wore through in some spots in less than 2 seasons . It cost about the same as the bulb seal. The big problem I had was cleaning it all of to prep for the bulb seal. Pipe insulation is split length wise and has adhesive on both sides of the split. If anyone plans to use it I suggest that They only use the adhesive on one side and go with something thinner than 1".

Hahaaha! Great minds, I suppose. Based on your previous post and @Scottintexas thoughts above, I had ordered 20' of this bulb seal today just before your latest post:


Link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-rubber-bulb-seal-gaskets/=wupbb0

 

[Marvin willis]

Bulb seal?

 

[GTBRMC]

Bulb seal?

This is the seminal discussion on YJB...
http://yamahajetboaters.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=50166

Note the fifth comment in the thread by "pwb"

General concept is a lot of "engine room" noise escapes into the cockpit around the hatch through a number of large voids (which serve no functional purpose)...seal this off with bulb seal, and the apparent cockpit noise drops significantly. Cheap. Easy. Easy to undo if you don't like it.

 

[cozilla]

@GTBRMC I am looking forward to your results as I have the same boat.

 

[GTBRMC]

@GTBRMC I am looking forward to your results as I have the same boat.

I will be sure to post results here. I did a temp test run with about $8 of cheapo foam pipe insulation late last season - my whole crew gave it two thumbs up.

 

[sstegh]

Just placed an order for the same.

 

[Marvin willis]

Anybody know how many ft of insulation to buy?

 

[sstegh]

I just got 20 feet in the mail. Haven't installed it yet.

 

[Ronnie]

I ordered 20 feet of bulb seal and used about 18. To line the entire engine compartment and hatch you need about 17 linear feet, 1 linear foot at McMaster Carr is 4 square feet as I recall.

 

[cozilla]

@GTBRMC were you able to install the bulb seal and get some results?

 

[ShesCrafty]

Just adding my experience/perspective to the matter of 'noisy boats'...

Our '15 212x hit the water for the first time, this past weekend. (Awesome day!) I have to be honest - I was waiting for some crazy-high level of engine noise... and I was pleasantly surprised! She's actually quieter than our old 180 Challenger.

Love this boat!