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Fiberglass Sub Box Help Needed - now solved and digressed

While I am not that versed in the extreme technicalities... if I set my gain to volume X from radio (not clipping) with signal coming from my phone and watch set to volume Y (not clipping), then I should be at the maximum performance for my source (which is my only source I use). However, if there was a performance loss, I do not think it would be audible, and the convenience factor gained far outweighs that.

It depends on how it is hooked up and the internal dsp and dac of the head unit. If you highly amplify a weak signal vs moderatly amplify a strong signal the end result is a bit different on how much noise is introduced and how the signal is manipulated by the chips. Good old tube amps were much simpler. Bottom line is that human interface is a big deal and I can’t think of a better one than a waterproof smartwatch for our use case.

Needless to say I am curious and will be testing every input method and volume combo to see what is best and what is most practical.
 
So, if we ever drift back to the original topic and if @Glassman stops by, this would be the perfect topic for him...

But I am enjoying the electronics talk (being more music than electronics, but passable at both). So, carry on.

Here I is......

Is this a done deal yet? Sounds like a fun project for you ( @Mainah ). Are you going with the West System epoxy? Let me know if I can help in any way.
 
Here I is......

Is this a done deal yet? Sounds like a fun project for you ( @Mainah ). Are you going with the West System epoxy? Let me know if I can help in any way.



I went with one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VXV9T8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and three of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXS2J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also bought bubble rollers. Won't be able to start this project until I have my ballast and custom kegerator all in which won't be until next weekend. So about two weeks before I get to this at best and will have to take time off if not done before the second week of April. Going lay in a conduit and drain channel under the box but will be much easier for me to run everything for those two projects before glassing that in.

I am a novice at fiberglass so any tips are good and if I am about to use the wrong stuff or not thinking about something I would rather know beforehand. This may be a fun project for some but I am dreading this one.
 
I get flamed for this, but there’s no reason to put in a box from an audio perspective. Maybe you need to store things in that compartment and you don’t want them to touch the sub. I get that.

Car audio people are especially prone to using a box when it’s not needed. they say things like “this sub isn’t designed for infinite baffle applications”. In the home audio world IB is much more accepted.

I’ve been running a regular sub IB in my car for more than 10 years and it still sounds better than the same sub in a box. You need less power, the response is flatter, and it gets deeper. Look into it and then save yourself a bunch of money and a bunch more time. If your worried about vibration then just stiffen the mounting panel.

It’s safe to say a scope is overkill. It should be fun, but you won’t notice that extra 5% of clean power. The relationship between power and perceived sound level is exponential.

It’s a cool project, but fiberglass is about the worst kind of work I can imagine in a cramped compartment. Be sure to take pictures and share the results if you go for it.
Matt
 
You need a woofer with a very low Fs to get deeper than one in a ported enclosure. Also I think the biggest consideration is output. IB typically lacks on output compared to everything else. IB subs need the proper T/S parameters to work properly too. However I totally agree, when you find the right one, nothing beats how they sound and how well they can blend into a system.
 
That's true. I didn't think it was likely this box would be ported. Port design is often sort of made up in the car world, but done right will give you a boost in output at specific frequencies, but IB will still get lower. The box acts like a highpass filter.

I disagree that it's less output than a sealed box though, especially when you look at the power required to achieve X-max. Even getting close with T/S and comparing the "recommended" sealed box with an IB you'll get lower and use less power. One thing to be careful of is you'll need a low frequency cutoff because there is no suspension from a box that would resist over extension at frequencies lower than Fs. I guess the problem comes from buying the more expensive car audio stuff that is designed to go into the smallest box possible and then the T/S will end up being way off. They get away with that because of the low frequency gain from being in a small car. You'll not get that in a boat.

I've not been too serious about this since I have something that's worked for the past ten years, but my impression is that car audio is going smaller and smaller recommended boxes and use matching T/S. So my advice to people is to buy the cheapest, largest diameter sub with the lowest Fs and be happy or buy some specific IB subs like Image Dynamics. I think the speakers I've been using have an Fs of 30Hz which is considered by most to be way too high for IB, but this gets so much lower than any other box system I've heard. It helps that I have a parametric EQ in the amp and I just add some higher frequency back into the signal to regain some of the punch that gets rolled off from running it this way.

If you're interested there are easy free speaker modeling programs (I can't recommend one) just setup a sealed box, a ported box, and a sealed box with a very large volume (simulates IB). Plop in the T/S from the sub you're looking at and decide if I'm right or blowing smoke.
 
I get flamed for this, but there’s no reason to put in a box from an audio perspective. Maybe you need to store things in that compartment and you don’t want them to touch the sub. I get that.

Car audio people are especially prone to using a box when it’s not needed. they say things like “this sub isn’t designed for infinite baffle applications”. In the home audio world IB is much more accepted.

I’ve been running a regular sub IB in my car for more than 10 years and it still sounds better than the same sub in a box. You need less power, the response is flatter, and it gets deeper. Look into it and then save yourself a bunch of money and a bunch more time. If your worried about vibration then just stiffen the mounting panel.

It’s safe to say a scope is overkill. It should be fun, but you won’t notice that extra 5% of clean power. The relationship between power and perceived sound level is exponential.

It’s a cool project, but fiberglass is about the worst kind of work I can imagine in a cramped compartment. Be sure to take pictures and share the results if you go for it.
Matt

Matt- Thanks for sharing. I am of a different opinion based upon my knowledge and experience with the physics and electrical principles involved. Things are very different in a bow rider boat in that you need the direct radiation from the woofer but want it to sound deep and kick you in the butt. 4th order bandpass is out, ported is not optimal unless ported into the cabin along with being driect radiating, which leaves sealed or free air. I am of the opinion that a properly fitted sealed enclosure with direct radiation will sound best.

Yeah the oscilloscope may be a bit over the top but if I can figure out how to get a clean and safe signal that is even 10 percent stronger going into the amp and then the amp multiples at a fixed rate of lets say 10x based upon the same gain then I will get 10 percent more power to the speakers and my system will be more efficient on the power consumption side when not using full volume in a class D amp. Keep in mind I have done bunches of electrical projects that needed my old military surplus oscilloscope. It took up too much bench space so I sold it and got a robust portable 4 channel with 2 digital inputs, 2 analog inputs, and a logic tester. As for tone generation I could use the oscilloscope but using the same input device as you do for music is better so I have a app for the tone gen that will run on my source device. Being able to attenute the tone to normal recording levels for music is a big plus and also a miss by lots of folks who tune systems with a tone generator.

Again thanks for sharing your thoughts and opinions and I am by no means flaming you. I am just of a different opinion and thats ok. I will post photos and results. I have been very honest in posts where things don’t come out how I wanted so you can count on it being accurate even if that means I end up looking stupid for wasting time and money for no gain.
 
That's true. I didn't think it was likely this box would be ported. Port design is often sort of made up in the car world, but done right will give you a boost in output at specific frequencies, but IB will still get lower. The box acts like a highpass filter.

I disagree that it's less output than a sealed box though, especially when you look at the power required to achieve X-max. Even getting close with T/S and comparing the "recommended" sealed box with an IB you'll get lower and use less power. One thing to be careful of is you'll need a low frequency cutoff because there is no suspension from a box that would resist over extension at frequencies lower than Fs. I guess the problem comes from buying the more expensive car audio stuff that is designed to go into the smallest box possible and then the T/S will end up being way off. They get away with that because of the low frequency gain from being in a small car. You'll not get that in a boat.

I've not been too serious about this since I have something that's worked for the past ten years, but my impression is that car audio is going smaller and smaller recommended boxes and use matching T/S. So my advice to people is to buy the cheapest, largest diameter sub with the lowest Fs and be happy or buy some specific IB subs like Image Dynamics. I think the speakers I've been using have an Fs of 30Hz which is considered by most to be way too high for IB, but this gets so much lower than any other box system I've heard. It helps that I have a parametric EQ in the amp and I just add some higher frequency back into the signal to regain some of the punch that gets rolled off from running it this way.

If you're interested there are easy free speaker modeling programs (I can't recommend one) just setup a sealed box, a ported box, and a sealed box with a very large volume (simulates IB). Plop in the T/S from the sub you're looking at and decide if I'm right or blowing smoke.

I think the problem here is low Fs woofers are hard to come by in today's world (at least car audio wise). There is really too many variables to say what will play lower (well, with authority). My IB10 on the boat plays down in the 28hz region (based on a common song I test), but it has zero output, I can just watch it try lol. I install a ton of manufacturer loaded enclosures tuned around 40hz, that can play into the the under 30hz region and still be respectably audible. I run the ID8 in my Charger IB, simply because it was lowest Fs 8 I could find. That plays low notes well, but overall output is just enough to blend in to the factory Alpine system. If I put it in a sealed box, I doubt it would get as low, but output would increase. I ran two 15" Dayton HF's IB in my Challenger, while it sounded great... there is no doubt in mind a sealed box would have been louder. Maybe if I get super bored this weekend I can do some trial run's on random woofers in WinISD.
 
Matt- Thanks for sharing. I am of a different opinion based upon my knowledge and experience with the physics and electrical principles involved. Things are very different in a bow rider boat in that you need the direct radiation from the woofer but want it to sound deep and kick you in the butt. 4th order bandpass is out, ported is not optimal unless ported into the cabin along with being direct radiating, which leaves sealed or free air. I am of the opinion that a properly fitted sealed enclosure with direct radiation will sound best.

I'm not really sure what you're getting at, the woofer in either situation would have the same placement on the inside of the boat. What happens behind the mounting point doesn't change the radiation pattern.

The physics of low frequency waves is that they bend around corners more than high frequency. So you don't need to be in front of a woofer, but you do need to be in front of a mid or tweet. So I think I'm not tracking that logic. It's certainly true that opinions on what sounds good vary.


Yeah the oscilloscope may be a bit over the top but if I can figure out how to get a clean and safe signal that is even 10 percent stronger going into the amp and then the amp multiples at a fixed rate of lets say 10x based upon the same gain then I will get 10 percent more power to the speakers and my system will be more efficient on the power consumption side when not using full volume in a class D amp. Keep in mind I have done bunches of electrical projects that needed my old military surplus oscilloscope. It took up too much bench space so I sold it and got a robust portable 4 channel with 2 digital inputs, 2 analog inputs, and a logic tester. As for tone generation I could use the oscilloscope but using the same input device as you do for music is better so I have a app for the tone gen that will run on my source device. Being able to attenuate the tone to normal recording levels for music is a big plus and also a miss by lots of folks who tune systems with a tone generator.

All a scope will do is tell you when your sound starts to clip. If you set the deck to 50% you could just turn up the amp's gain to get to the point of the amp clipping. Or if you set the deck to the max before clipping, someone said 95% (I doubt that, but ok) you would still just turn up the amp's gain until it starts clipping. The advantage of the latter isn't that you get more volume, it's that you get less noise in the signal because the source to the amp is greater. So better SQ, but not more volume. The amp can only do so much. Also adjusting the gains doesn't in any way impact the efficiency of an amp. Conservation of energy after all. If power conservation was/is a priority then IB and a high eff woofer is the only way to go. Most high eff woofers are probably not going to hold up to water though.

I'm not really sure what you're going to use for the source of the test tones, but the dynamics of music are going to be a lot different than test tones. I don't mess with this so it sounds like you know a lot more about the process.

Again thanks for sharing your thoughts and opinions and I am by no means flaming you. I am just of a different opinion and thats ok. I will post photos and results. I have been very honest in posts where things don’t come out how I wanted so you can count on it being accurate even if that means I end up looking stupid for wasting time and money for no gain.

I like projects like this too, and I've run aground on things, so I can relate to doing it and learning as you go. Good for you. I won't badger you anymore about it, other than please post pics. :)

I think the problem here is low Fs woofers are hard to come by in today's world (at least car audio wise). There is really too many variables to say what will play lower (well, with authority). My IB10 on the boat plays down in the 28hz region (based on a common song I test), but it has zero output, I can just watch it try lol. I install a ton of manufacturer loaded enclosures tuned around 40hz, that can play into the the under 30hz region and still be respectably audible. I run the ID8 in my Charger IB, simply because it was lowest Fs 8 I could find. That plays low notes well, but overall output is just enough to blend in to the factory Alpine system. If I put it in a sealed box, I doubt it would get as low, but output would increase. I ran two 15" Dayton HF's IB in my Challenger, while it sounded great... there is no doubt in mind a sealed box would have been louder. Maybe if I get super bored this weekend I can do some trial run's on random woofers in WinISD.

I really think we are on the same page here. Getting a marine woofer with a low Fs is probably even harder than a car. Still IB will be more efficient and lower than sealed.
I wonder if the enclosures you mention are in a boat or a car. There's tons of "room gain" from a tiny car at low frequencies and so they sound much lower. Comparing an enclosure in a car to the same enclosure in a field is completely disappointing.

Also comparing the enclosures that have different amps and speakers is really hard to fairly do. WinISD sounds familiar. I've used several programs dating back to 1997 and I never really found them that useful because I always either used the biggest sealed box I could (bigger is lower) or later went fully IB. One thing that I do think helps a sealed box in a car is that you get more loading in the trunk from the small volume in the trunk. The trunk starts to act like a bandpass box. I remember people with 4th gen Cameros would face the sub down into the "hole." That was the best orientation because it used the "hole" like a ported bandpass box. The same exact setup pointed up or forward wasn't nearly as loud.

I won't badger you anymore either. I'll just add that two 15 IB's in anything auto must have been impressive. I've also scaled back from my youth of two 12" or one 15" to just the one 10" in my Lexus. It's not wake the neighbors loud by any means, but it sounds much more like my home HiFi.

Good on you both. I may someday justify this in my old boat, but for now I can only bench race.
 
On to pictures! And your testing data! (I will use that when I finally tune the boat next week)
 
A couple of clarifications.

The frequencies that a subwoofer produce can be both felt and heard. The heard part disipates very fast in an open enviroment which is why the front of the woofer should be exposed to the cabin. I have a substantial backing ring that I made from 3/4 HDPE which helps but the outer hull flexes behind causing a loss of energy. The fiberglass box will not only provide the needed resistance for the sub it will also provide support for the outer hull.

As for the electronics side todays devices have DSP, DAC, and ADC circuits/chips that all play a role in the signal. If bluetooth those chips also play a role. Class D amps use PWM to amplify the signal. By optomizing for amplifing the cleanest low level signal it will have positive impacts on top end perfomance and all around efficiency. Keep in mind that I am speaking purely from the electrical and data standpoint. I understand computer data files and electrical signals very well but can’t sing or play a paino to save my life.
 
I'm not really sure what you're getting at, the woofer in either situation would have the same placement on the inside of the boat. What happens behind the mounting point doesn't change the radiation pattern.
There no question a "IB" sub can be "louder" when enclosed. There are many posts here about that.
And this seals the deal - from @David Analog:
This is fact. When you place a true high 'Q' infinite baffle subwoofer driver in a box that is small enough that it serves to raise the 'Qtc' (system 'Q'), you lose deep bass and you add a midbass hump...in other words, you get more of a domed response curve. The smaller the box the more profound the change. So it is definitely adding a midbass peak, but not at the deeper registers. If you want to go acoustic suspension, which does have some advantages, simply select the right subwoofer driver for the right application. JL Audio makes such a driver, the M10W5.

--
 
I'm sorry I misspoke about some of what I meant. Making a sub boomie doesn't seem like an option to me and so I didn't address that part of a small box. I would always eq the system flat and expect it to perform down to the bottom of the range in any size box meaning cut that hump out with eq. I do agree though so I don't mean to sound contradictory. Thanks for pointing that out I think that is a big source of the differences.
 
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