FSH slow crank

[ReelFishingSWFL]

I’m pulling my hair out over here! I have a 2017 Yamaha FSH 190 with a 1.8L HO with 495 hours and I’m having an issue where it’s taking 20-30 seconds to start while holding the ignition switch. I checked all my connections for corrosion and made sure my batteries are charged with no luck. I also changed all the spark plus for new ones still the same issue.. At this point I’m wondering if it’s my fuel pump not creating enough pressure (I did a pump test btw by removing the line form fuel rail turning switch and gas seemed to have pressure) On the bright side when it finally turns over it runs great! No hiccups at all. Any advice? Also one last thought do this boats have fuel filters? I can’t find that information anywhere..

 

[Yammi]

Switch the house and start batteries to see if it makes a difference. Or if you can, run a test on them or bring them into a parts shop to test them for you. Not sure how old they are, but even new batteries can be bad sometimes.

 

[ReelFishingSWFL]

Switch the house and start batteries to see if it makes a difference. Or if you can, run a test on them or bring them into a parts shop to test them for you. Not sure how old they are, but even new batteries can be bad sometimes.

Thanks for the tip I will try that tomorrow

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Have you ever had the valves adjusted ? Tight valves can cause hard starting.

The fuel filters are in the bottom of the fuel pump housing and are not meant to be serviceable.

To check the fuel pressure you need a gauge and the correct fittings to put the gauge in line while the engine is operating.

The title of your thread says slow crank, is it cranking slow or just hard to start? What is the volt reading on the connext screen when you are cranking the engine? If it’s below 10.8-10.4 then it’s on the edge of not having enough voltage to fire the ignition. @Yammi has a good suggestion there! You could always just use the paralleling switch to see if that helps.

 

[ReelFishingSWFL]

Have you ever had the valves adjusted ? Tight valves can cause hard starting.

The fuel filters are in the bottom of the fuel pump housing and are not meant to be serviceable.

To check the fuel pressure you need a gauge and the correct fittings to put the gauge in line while the engine is operating.

The title of your thread says slow crank, is it cranking slow or just hard to start? What is the volt reading on the connext screen when you are cranking the engine? If it’s below 10.8-10.4 then it’s on the edge of not having enough voltage to fire the ignition. @Yammi has a good suggestion there! You could always just use the paralleling switch to see if that helps.

It’s cranking slow as I’m turn the switch it’s making the cranking sounds but won’t start for 20-30 seconds while holding the ignition key switch.. I have never opened the valves it OEM no one has ever been in there. What psi should the meter read on fuel pressure? And the screen says 12v+ when cranking

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

You are looking at the start battery meter correct ? 12V while cranking is really good

I’m not sure about the 1.8L engine, but the TR-1’s valves are supposed to be checked every 200 hours.

I’m not sure about the correct fuel psi, you’d have to look at the shop manual.

Have you check the battery connections for tightness?

 

[ReelFishingSWFL]

You are looking at the start battery meter correct ? 12V while cranking is really good

I’m not sure about the 1.8L engine, but the TR-1’s valves are supposed to be checked every 200 hours.

I’m not sure about the correct fuel psi, you’d have to look at the shop manual.

Have you check the battery connections for tightness?

I’ll double check on cranking tomorrow but I’m pretty sure that’s what I saw. I haven’t done Any valve checks but maybe I should take it in to get it serviced and looked at. One of my buddies told me that he may have heard a valve sticking. Would that caused this issue? He wasn’t sure if that’s what he heard. I have checked the battery connections.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I’ll double check on cranking tomorrow but I’m pretty sure that’s what I saw. I haven’t done Any valve checks but maybe I should take it in to get it serviced and looked at. One of my buddies told me that he may have heard a valve sticking. Would that caused this issue? He wasn’t sure if that’s what he heard. I have checked the battery connections.

If, and that’s if, the valves have gotten tight, as in there isn’t enough room between the flat part of the cam and the valve stem, so the valve is not closed when it should be and it’s leaking off compression. This is caused by the valve and the valve seat wearing over time and the valve moves up into the seat reducing the lash (distance between the cam and the valve stem) this is normal wear over time. There are adjustable thickness shims that go in between the cam and the valve stem, these different thickness shims are used to adjust the lash or free play.

I looked up your owners manual and the valve lash check interval is 200 hours.

 

[Judge]

You say it is cracking slow. If it is truly cranking slow vs cranking at normal speed and just taking a long time to start, I would put a jump charger on it and see if it starts cranking faster or you can tie the house and starting battery together. If there is no change in the starter speed / cranking, then it could be an issue with the starter itself.... again if you audibly hear a difference in the cranking speed vs when it was starting normally.

 

[ReelFishingSWFL]

Today I took out the fuel pump to check for debris and found out that my fuel pump strainer was really dirty and a bunch of particles all in the canister the pump sits in. I completely cleaned the fuel pump and purchased a new strainer (not oem because couldn’t find a part number but found a strainer at auto zone that was close enough and fit with a small mod) I took some pics of the strainer for you guys looked pretty bad I’m assuming this was causing low fuel pressure while cranking. I will reinstall the fuel pump tomorrow with its new strainer and hope for the best!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Any progress?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Slow cranking is usually caused by the pump liner swelling and dragging on the impeller here is a trick I came up with to see if it is the issue, while on the trailer after the engine has been sitting for a few days spray some wd-40 in the pump via the nozzle and then turn the key if the engine turns over faster that tells you the problem is a swollen pump liner

 

[lazergeek]

He posted a video of it on one of the FB groups. It sounded fine turning over to me, it just took 30 seconds of cranking before it starts. I think his thread title is inaccurate

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I think I saw that and told him to look into the throttle positioning sensor I had one that would do the same thing on and off if I worked the throttle and then tried it usually worked.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I’ll double check on cranking tomorrow but I’m pretty sure that’s what I saw. I haven’t done Any valve checks but maybe I should take it in to get it serviced and looked at. One of my buddies told me that he may have heard a valve sticking. Would that caused this issue? He wasn’t sure if that’s what he heard. I have checked the battery connections.

Did you ever resolve your problem? If so what was the cure?

 

[ReelFishingSWFL]

Did you ever resolve your problem? If so what was the cure?

nope people is still there I have an appt on Friday with a tech.

 

[Dixemon]

went fishing a couple week ago in relatively cold temperatures. Stopped the boat to fish a spot for about t0 minutes. Went to crank and the engines took about 5-8 seconds before they lit off. Kind of a random thing from my experience. Normally they fire up within a couple of seconds. The rest of the day every engine start was normal. I would be interested in what your tech has to say about your boat. It may have something to do with what I am experiencing as well.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I’ve had a similar issue, it usually happens after I’ve been running for a while then pull up and stop. If I can I go slow for a while with the bilge blowers on before I stop. I’ll feel the water coming out of the pilot outlets too and if it’s hot/warm I’ll wait till it gets cold then shut the engines off. This seems to keep that from happening.

Still interested in what the OP found out with the tech.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Did you try turning on the key without cranking the engine for about 20 seconds so the fuel pressure builds up for the injectors before you crank it.

 

[Dixemon]

Did you try turning on the key without cranking the engine for about 20 seconds so the fuel pressure builds up for the injectors before you crank it.

thats a very good point, usually no. that along with FSH recommendations make alot of sense.