Full drain 1.8l oil change.

[suke]

So the MR1s had a fairly well documented full oil change. Can't really find a whole lot in the boats for the 1.8l. Have 6 hours on my boat and will definitely hit 10 tomorrow.

This appears from my searches to be the drain bolt on the 1.8l. Anyone ever popped that off and drained oil from there? I'll suck as much as I can from the dipstick, but being the first oil change I wanna do a full one. If it is you think same torque as the MR1? Think it was 13 ft lbs, something small I know that.

 

[jtwrace]

Once you level the engine, you can can nearly all of it out. Obviously you're not getting **some** of the little particles that you would normally get out with a pan drain as it doesn't 'flush" it out. That being said, I think it's fine given the oil analysis I've had done too. If you choose to do the pan, make sure you've got something under for the big mess.

 

[suke]

Once you level the engine, you can can nearly all of it out. Obviously you're not getting **some** of the little particles that you would normally get out with a pan drain as it doesn't 'flush" it out. That being said, I think it's fine given the oil analysis I've had done too. If you choose to do the pan, make sure you've got something under for the big mess.

For subsequent ones I'll definitely just suck it out, so much easier. Yeah I'll cut a gallon jug and put a puppy pad underneath it. I did that when I changed the oil on my MR1 motors. Still made a bit of a mess, but easy to clean up. Just haven't really gotten confirmation that bolt is it. From all the parts diagrams I'm fairly certain, just wasn't sure if anyone had actually done it.

 

[cgardine]

For subsequent ones I'll definitely just suck it out, so much easier. Yeah I'll cut a gallon jug and put a puppy pad underneath it. I did that when I changed the oil on my MR1 motors. Still made a bit of a mess, but easy to clean up. Just haven't really gotten confirmation that bolt is it. From all the parts diagrams I'm fairly certain, just wasn't sure if anyone had actually done it.

About to do the same for the first time on my 242S. Any tips based on your experience? Thanks

 

[minn19]

I did the standard dipstick extraction method a couple of weeks ago for my 10 hours service. I got about 3 and 3/4 quarts out of each engine. I had to mess with the suction tube a couple of times to get that much out though.

I wouldn’t attempt the method you are looking at doing as I think it has the risk of causing more problems for little benefit. But, as they say it is your boat etc so let us know how it goes!

 

[ZGhost]

Just did my 10 hr service today. 4 Qrts came out of each engine. Oil level was at the top mark before starting the job. Adjusted the suction tube a few times and was able to get more out.

 

[minn19]

Just did my 10 hr service today. 4 Qrts came out of each engine. Oil level was at the top mark before starting the job. Adjusted the suction tube a few times and was able to get more out.

Impressive. How did you get a full 4 quarts out? I maneuvered the tube around as much as possible, but kept running into an obstruction. I read elsewhere that it is a screen that you don’t want to push through so I didn’t mess with it anymore.

 

[ZGhost]

I was impressed too but I think there is still some old oil in there. Like as I said, the dealer had it filled to the top mark so it probably had more than 4 qrts (measured cold) in it when I started.

 

[dan144k]

When doing oil change. I always
1. level the trailer front to back, and
2. then use a floor jack on port side and lift trailer up to tilt motor side of the dipstick to be the lowest point.
3. then re-level to fill and check oil level.
4. Then On the water floating also recheck oil level.

 

[suke]

I never came back an updated this. I got so much out through the dipstick I didn't feel the need to try and find a lower bolt and drain it via that.

 

[cgardine]

Yamaha manual says to change oil but not the filters for initial 10 hour oil change. Seems odd to me. Are you all following that or changing the filters as well?

 

[Maccam26]

Yamaha manual says to change oil but not the filters for initial 10 hour oil change. Seems odd to me. Are you all following that or changing the filters as well?

I did filter, cheap insurance for anything the original caught from the break in

 

[suke]

Filters came with my oil change kit, so why not.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I did both. That way I could get out any metal shavings or fine dust in oil that was in the filter.

 

[Gunghoe9]

Me too, was able to pull out 3.75 qts. Filled it with 3.5 qts and will recheck on the lake and fill if needed.

 

[JetBoatingUpstateNY]

Did my 1.8L oil changes a couple days ago, not sure how much came out since my extractor bucket doesn't have measurements on the side, but I put 4 quarts back in each one and i'm about halfway between the marks on each dipstick after driving the boat around then letting it sit overnight. These dipsticks are incredibly hard for me to read btw, seems like the oil wants to smear and not give an easy reading.

I used the yamalube kit with yamaha filters. Next time I'll grab 2 of the large jugs on boats.net and k&n filters on amazon, about $70 total. Filters were a pain, they're of course tightened to all hell from the dealer, and i had to buy a smaller filter wrench to loosen them.

Did the plugs a week ago, super easy, no issues. Stock plugs not iridium, no anti sieze, no torque wrench. Just screwed them in, no need to overthink it.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

So the MR1s had a fairly well documented full oil change. Can't really find a whole lot in the boats for the 1.8l. Have 6 hours on my boat and will definitely hit 10 tomorrow.

This appears from my searches to be the drain bolt on the 1.8l. Anyone ever popped that off and drained oil from there? I'll suck as much as I can from the dipstick, but being the first oil change I wanna do a full one. If it is you think same torque as the MR1? Think it was 13 ft lbs, something small I know that. View attachment 119091

@suke years ago I bought a new bow rider with a 350 magnum engine. A tech at the dealership who was real good and honest said I can get "almost" all of the oil nout with our commercial (12v pump) oil extractor. After the finished i did some quick math on what was in the extractor connector and what could have been in the oil filter. IMO it didn't add-up. I told him to get a wrench and a container and remove the oil pan drain plug (on my nickel) just to see. He said all I will need is a rag. he dropped the drain pan lug and started yelling Oh $hit get me a bunch of rags, get me a pan. I'm guessing there was at least a pint left. is that the end of the world if you keep your oil fresh - no. was it "almost" all of the oil - no. So, I bought a brass fitting with an oil'fuel resistant length of hose and ran it to a 12V (marine approved) oil extractor pump (less than $100 total). From that point on (1994) ALL of my boats had that system. It was truly a <15 minute oil change. I am contemplating doing that with my Yamaha. Many I/O engine manufacturers (Mercruiser) now have a hose that is permanently connected to the bottom of the engine's oil pan and is connected to the boat's drain plug. Remove your drain plug, un-cap that hose and instant oil drain. I like the 12v pump as I can do the oil change with the boat on a lift or in the water.

 

[suke]

@suke years ago I bought a new bow rider with a 350 magnum engine. A tech at the dealership who was real good and honest said I can get "almost" all of the oil nout with our commercial (12v pump) oil extractor. After the finished i did some quick math on what was in the extractor connector and what could have been in the oil filter. IMO it didn't add-up. I told him to get a wrench and a container and remove the oil pan drain plug (on my nickel) just to see. He said all I will need is a rag. he dropped the drain pan lug and started yelling Oh $hit get me a bunch of rags, get me a pan. I'm guessing there was at least a pint left. is that the end of the world if you keep your oil fresh - no. was it "almost" all of the oil - no. So, I bought a brass fitting with an oil'fuel resistant length of hose and ran it to a 12V (marine approved) oil extractor pump (less than $100 total). From that point on (1994) ALL of my boats had that system. It was truly a <15 minute oil change. I am contemplating doing that with my Yamaha. Many I/O engine manufacturers (Mercruiser) now have a hose that is permanently connected to the bottom of the engine's oil pan and is connected to the boat's drain plug. Remove your drain plug, un-cap that hose and instant oil drain. I like the 12v pump as I can do the oil change with the boat on a lift or in the water.

I pulled out just over 4 quarts out with the extractor. That leaves less than a half quart of total capacity. Not sure finding and using the drain plug would net me that much more. Maybe an extra cup or 2 of oil out of that drain plug? Not worth the headache.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

I pulled out just over 4 quarts out with the extractor. That leaves less than a half quart of total capacity. Not sure finding and using the drain plug would net me that much more. Maybe an extra cup or 2 of oil out of that drain plug? Not worth the headache.

@suke......if you change your noil enough - I agree. That said, I was shocked by some of the crud that seemed to inhabit the bottom of the oil pan....another reason to heat the oil to operating temperature before changing it!

 

[suke]

@suke......if you change your noil enough - I agree. That said, I was shocked by some of the crud that seemed to inhabit the bottom of the oil pan....another reason to heat the oil to operating temperature before changing it!

YUP! I change my oil quite regularly at 40 hours. Also change it after being out on it all day, so it's nice and hot.