Help with installation of depth sounder, extra USB

[Theryan]

Hi guys,

Hope that everyone is doing well and getting to enjoy the summer weather finally!

Now that it's finally getting nice in Minnesota and I can get the boat out, I want to tackle a couple of projects, but now that I'm about to do it I'm getting nervous and would love some advice.

My boat is a 2012 SX190.

I bought a Hawkeye Depthtrax 2B and while I understand pretty easily how to glue the transducer in I'm not totally sure on how to wire this in. It doesn't have an on/off switch, and the instructions advise to install it by connecting to the key switch but I'm not totally sure how to actually do that. Can I use an inline splice (like positaps, clamshells, etc) to splice into the power and ground going to the key switch? Or is there something else that I need to do instead?

Second question - I have a dual USB power adapter that would be cool to install by the dash so that I can use it. I'd like to just splice it into existing wires, but don't know if that's safe to do (it has an in line fuse attached to it already).

I've searched everywhere and can't find a single source that actually tells you HOW to wire these things. Hoping that you guys have some advice since you're familiar with these boats.

Thank you so much in advance, and if you need more information let me know!

 

[Julian]

If I was doing this I would run a power and ground cable from the battery to an addon fuse box behind the helm. I'm not a fan of tapping into wires. The usb charge post will likely be higher amperage too.

Adding a fuse block is easy, and then makes adding any other items later easy too.

 

[Theryan]

If I was doing this I would run a power and ground cable from the battery to an addon fuse box behind the helm. I'm not a fan of tapping into wires. The usb charge post will likely be higher amperage too.

Adding a fuse block is easy, and then makes adding any other items later easy too.

Thanks, Julian! Okay, so if I don't need to install the USB and only want to wire in the depth sounder does that change things? I understand the concept of wiring a busbar and a small panel, but have never done it and don't want to mess it up.

If I do go the route of putting a busbar and switch panel in, would this be the correct path?

1. Mount busbar behind the helm.
2. Run negative cable from battery to busbar (I only have a single battery as I plug it in to charge when not using it).
3. Run positive cable from, battery to switch panel positive post.
4. Run negative from panel to busbar.
5. Connect electronics to the panel that I want to wire in. Would have some extra switches for expansion.

The panel I'm looking at is a bluesea 4 switch with USB and 12v port, for what it's worth.

The other question is this: the panel has circuit breakers built in. I'm assuming I should run one inline fuse from the battery positive to the panel, though, right?

Thanks again for the help!

 

[Julian]

Thanks, Julian! Okay, so if I don't need to install the USB and only want to wire in the depth sounder does that change things? I understand the concept of wiring a busbar and a small panel, but have never done it and don't want to mess it up.

If I do go the route of putting a busbar and switch panel in, would this be the correct path?

1. Mount busbar behind the helm.
2. Run negative cable from battery to busbar (I only have a single battery as I plug it in to charge when not using it).
3. Run positive cable from, battery to switch panel positive post.
4. Run negative from panel to busbar.
5. Connect electronics to the panel that I want to wire in. Would have some extra switches for expansion.

The panel I'm looking at is a bluesea 4 switch with USB and 12v port, for what it's worth.

The other question is this: the panel has circuit breakers built in. I'm assuming I should run one inline fuse from the battery positive to the panel, though, right?

Thanks again for the help!

You have it exactly right. It may seem daunting at first, but it is really simple.

I bought marine cable that has a positive and negative in one sheath. Made running it easier and tidier.

 

[Theryan]

You have it exactly right. It may seem daunting at first, but it is really simple.

I bought marine cable that has a positive and negative in one sheath. Made running it easier and tidier.

Would you recommend running 10 gauge wire from the battery to switch/bus? Recommendations on which size fuse I should install between the battery and panel (and I'm assuming I'd want said fuse close to the battery, right? Maybe right next to it?).

Can I go smaller gauge from the panel to the bus?

 

[Gunner]

I ran and mounted a blue seas fuse panel under helm. It has 6 circuits individually fused for each accessory you add. I used 10 gauge wire (marine) from battery and battery on/off switch. I used an inline fuse just off positive connection within 12" of connection to the the battery switch. I think I used a 15 amp for the fuse. I also added a dual usb/cigarette style charger on the side of the helm. The fuse panel powers this charger and my Garmin chartplotter . I initially tried the Hawkeye you have but it was DOA upon install and I switched to the Garmin 44 plotter. Pretty easy to run the wires I ran them from battery compartment into front of engine bay in protective loom and then into starboard rear storage and then up to helm storage, loomed and zip tied into place along the way. Pretty easy project , worse part was cutting holes in a new boats dash.

 

[Theryan]

I ran and mounted a blue seas fuse panel under helm. It has 6 circuits individually fused for each accessory you add. I used 10 gauge wire (marine) from battery and battery on/off switch. I used an inline fuse just off positive connection within 12" of connection to the the battery switch. I think I used a 15 amp for the fuse. I also added a dual usb/cigarette style charger on the side of the helm. The fuse panel powers this charger and my Garmin chartplotter . I initially tried the Hawkeye you have but it was DOA upon install and I switched to the Garmin 44 plotter. Pretty easy to run the wires I ran them from battery compartment into front of engine bay in protective loom and then into starboard rear storage and then up to helm storage, loomed and zip tied into place along the way. Pretty easy project , worse part was cutting holes in a new boats dash.

That's an interesting idea. So, if I did this method I wouldn't need a separate bus bar, right?

How did you connect this to the switches you added? From what I'm gathering, you run a positive from the battery to the fuse panel, and run a negative back to the battery.

Then you can connect the accessories directly to the terminals on this, but if I wanted to add the USB port and even a single switch to control the depth sounder would I:

connect the switch to the fuse panel terminals and then the depth sounder power to the switch?

And then can the USB run directly to the fuse block?

 

[Julian]

I ran 8 gauge just to leave myself some wiggle room. Bought a roll of this:

 

[Gunner]

Ok ran positive from battery switch (fuse in line) and negative from battery to the Blue Seas fuse box which has a bus bar integrated in it. Then just run each accessory from dash to the blue seas box under the helm, selecting the appropriate fuse amperage for each individual device. Very simple once you run the 10 gauge wire from battery compartment to under the helm. Wear long sleeves the fiberglass isn't fun on raw skin. For the in line fuse just select a fuse that handles the total draw of each your devices added up and under the total amperage of the 10 gauge wire for that length run, which is probably like 15 feet or so.

 

[Gunner]

One other thing the USB charger I used has an integrated on/off switch integrated with it. I believe it was a blue seas as well.

 

[Gunner]

Sorry for the pics boats in the garage and the tower is in the way, but you get the idea

 

[Gunner]

 

[Gunner]

 

[Gunner]

Be advised most of this wasn't my original ideas they were stolen from others before me on this site. It just works for me. If you were ever gonna run high amperage item like amplifiers, etc you would run heavier gauge wire than I did.

 

[Theryan]

Be advised most of this wasn't my original ideas they were stolen from others before me on this site. It just works for me. If you were ever gonna run high amperage item like amplifiers, etc you would run heavier gauge wire than I did.

This is super helpful! Thank you!

Do you have switches that you connected to the fuse box then?

I didn't even think about mounting a USB and dc outlet on that location. That's a great idea, actually.

One more question - do you have screws coming out by your feet then where the fuse box is mounted?

 

[Gunner]

No switches, usb has switch, chartplotter has switch. No screws because there is an inner and outer wall under the helm so nothing protrudes out into the finished area unless you lose your mind and run screws that are too long. I use a short charging cord that goes to my phone that is on left side of dash. If you look at the charging unit the right side waterproof cover has too usb ports under it, the left cover has a cigarette lighter type charger. Setup has been in the boat for 80 hours and works good. I usually run Navionics charts on my phone which sucks the phone battery quick so I just leave the phone plugged in when using.

 

[Gunner]

Like I said I originally planned on just having the Hawkeye, but after it didn't work I'm glad I went with a chartplotter. We boat in rivers and ocean and chartplotter are super helpful to avoid low water, rocks, etc and of course you still get true depth from the chartplotter transducer. The problem with just a depth finder is it's probably gonna be to late to avoid anything by the time you realize you ran out of water.Good luck!!

 

[Theryan]

Totally random question, but I just finished pulling wires and putting the terminals on them and even after cutting my 8 gauge wire I probably have like two feet extra behind the helm. Is there any harm in having a couple of extra feet spooled together, or should I cut it down so there isn't really any extra?

Also, you've all been seriously so helpful, so thank you. I finally am rounding the corner. My dual usb/dc switch just arrived and I'm going to take the dremel to it to cut the template out.

Had one mishap, though - Accidentally put a tiny pilot hole through the fiberglass down below the helm. Turns out that it isn't double-walled in that area, so the fuse box is going to be held on with two strong screws tightened down at the top, instead of the bottom.

 

[Theryan]

@Gunner & @Julian - Just wanted to send a quick thank you both of your ways. I got the project completed yesterday, and using your advice and tips it all worked!

I was able to install the fuse box, depth sounder (with a new switch to control it that I installed), the USB and 12V outlet and a new dual USB outlet (and only one small issue).

Connected everything and tested it and it all works! So, a huge thank you to you both!

 

[Julian]

@Gunner & @Julian - Just wanted to send a quick thank you both of your ways. I got the project completed yesterday, and using your advice and tips it all worked!

I was able to install the fuse box, depth sounder (with a new switch to control it that I installed), the USB and 12V outlet and a new dual USB outlet (and only one small issue).

Connected everything and tested it and it all works! So, a huge thank you to you both!

Awesome! Glad it all worked out! Now share some photos so we can all benefit from your handy work!

As for the extra wire you asked about....if you never plan on moving that fuse block, I would remove the extra wire. The shorter the wire, the less issue you have with overheating it, and just having the wire there hanging is more likely to get caught on something and pulled. Not critical as it is unlikely you will have enough current draw on that 8g wire, but shorter is better.

Glad we could help!!!!