• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Guest, we are pleased to announce that Hydrophase Ridesteady is offering an extra $100 off for JETBOATERS.NET members on any Ridesteady for Yamaha Speed Control system purchased through March 7th, 2025. Ridesteady is a speed control system (“cruise control”) that uses GPS satellites or engine RPM to keep your boat at the set speed you choose. On twin engine boats, it will also automatically synchronize your engines.

    Click Here for more information>Ride Steady group buy for JetBoaters.net members only

    You can dismiss this Notice by clicking the "X" in the upper right>>>>>

Impeller Housing Leak

SwimBikeRunBoat

Well-Known Member
Messages
24
Reaction score
18
Points
62
Location
Texas (Lake LBJ)
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Reposting this as I now have video link up that I'm hoping helps with the diagnosis.
So went out for a nice evening cruise on the weekend and sucked something up, but nothing obvious in the cleanout port. Engine power down on starboard side. Limped back to dock - both engines running. Back at dock there was substantially more water in the engine bay (still way below the engines though) than I have ever had before. So troubleshooting yesterday I have discovered a tiny leak from what I think is the backside of the impeller housing which below 2,000rpm doesn't increase, but when I get up to 4,500-5,000rpm there is a visible spray of water coming into the engine bay.
I have attached a photo of what I'm calling the backside of the impeller housing (in case my terminology is incorrect)
In the video (link below) the water spray appears right around the 18 seconds mark of the video.


So what have I done - and then what do I need to do to fix it?
Thanks for any help
 

Attachments

  • 20190405_143250_resized.jpg
    20190405_143250_resized.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 49
  • Backside of Impeller Housing.jpg
    Backside of Impeller Housing.jpg
    542.9 KB · Views: 58
Reposting this as I now have video link up that I'm hoping helps with the diagnosis.
So went out for a nice evening cruise on the weekend and sucked something up, but nothing obvious in the cleanout port. Engine power down on starboard side. Limped back to dock - both engines running. Back at dock there was substantially more water in the engine bay (still way below the engines though) than I have ever had before. So troubleshooting yesterday I have discovered a tiny leak from what I think is the backside of the impeller housing which below 2,000rpm doesn't increase, but when I get up to 4,500-5,000rpm there is a visible spray of water coming into the engine bay.
I have attached a photo of what I'm calling the backside of the impeller housing (in case my terminology is incorrect)
In the video (link below) the water spray appears right around the 18 seconds mark of the video.


So what have I done - and then what do I need to do to fix it?
Thanks for any help
@SwimBikeRunBoat .....has the bearing seal ever been greased and how was that done.....see the comprehensive thread on this subject. :cool:
 
Boat was new to me in 2018 with 135 hours - now has 210 hours and the bearing seal hasn't been greased while I have owned. So now having read through the various "intermediate bearing" threads and learning that I really hope I don't end up needing to replace the "intermediate bearing" as sounds like that would be a $1,000-$1,500 bill - is there any advice as to how I can determine if this is just the impeller wear ring etc vs the actual intermediate bearing?
 
Boat was new to me in 2018 with 135 hours - now has 210 hours and the bearing seal hasn't been greased while I have owned. So now having read through the various "intermediate bearing" threads and learning that I really hope I don't end up needing to replace the "intermediate bearing" as sounds like that would be a $1,000-$1,500 bill - is there any advice as to how I can determine if this is just the impeller wear ring etc vs the actual intermediate bearing?
@SwimBikeRunBoat ......way to go reading the posts, informed is always armed in my opinion. Before I worried about having to open my wallet I'd find out the specific amount of grease that YOUR system is recommended to accept and add it then give the grease at least 24 hours to affect the "rubber" seal. I hope that would cause the seal to swell and prevent water intrusion. Then I'd water test the boat to see the result. If it reduced the water intrusion but did not 100% stop it I would add more grease and again wait 24 hours and repeat the water test. I might do this three times before considering R & R ing the housing. If the seal has constricted, over time, due to a lack of grease it may take a while before it responds. Again, respectfully, I suggest you get information specific to your boat. You seem to be a thorough individual so I have no worries there. At least you are in Texas so you aren't faced like impending cold/snow like we are "up here" and have some time to try alternatives before spending the bigger $. Good luck - would be interested being up-dated regarding your progress. :cool:
 
thank you for your response and advice - I'm heading up to the lake this weekend (yes still boating weather down here) and will start off with your plan.
 
Useful thread with lots of info on which grease to use. In your case, I believe you should be using Yamalube Marine Grease.



It doesn't take much. Be very slow and methodical in your application. Good luck.
 
The wear ring is around the impeller in the outer housing. It has nothing to do with the leak you are seeing. I would definitly try what "canuckjetboater" suggested, hopefully it will reseal. If not, your looking at replacing the intermediate bearing. On the bright side, it's not the middle of summer where you will miss allot of good boating days.
 
thanks for taking the time to post that link - there is so much info here sometimes its hard to find the piece you need.
 
I did note your comments about applying grease and then waiting 24 hours, testing, then reapplying, waiting etc. - hopefully slow and steady wins this race. A this point of the season I have the time to try this over a period of weeks without a great loss.
Thanks again
 
One of our more experienced members fills the grease by pulling off the zerk fitting and using a large syringe to fill the reservoir. Otherwise, if you use a grease gun, it is easy to overfill the reservoir and blow the seal. In your situation, that is certainly the last thing you need.
 
I think your isolator boot has failed or the seals are bad in the bearing housing and water is leaking around the midshaft.

It's unlikely grease will seal a failed boot. It would get pushed out while under load.

The bearing housing, where the bearing and seals are, is sealed and does not have a hole to let grease flow into there.

If water has gotten to the intermediate bearing past a failed seal, it will corrode and fail over time.

Here's a write-up on it. Leaking intermediate housing...questions. - Page 2

Here's are video on pressing the midshaft into intermediate bearing housing.
He greases the inside of the seals before installing the midshaft.

Here's the parts diagram. Yamaha Boat Parts 2010 OEM Parts Diagram for Jet Unit 2 | Boats.net

Good luck
 
Get a better video and see if you can tell where the water is coming from.

I was thinking of redneck Hoosier repair for you - If it is the boot, before you start putting grease into it:
1. Clean the grease off the housing and rubber isolator with thinner - clean the front and the holes and good as you can
2. Apply silicone sealant around the outer rim where the rubber meets the aluminum and into the holes of the rubber boot.

It may not work but maybe it will slow the leak, hard to say. If it works it's $5 fix!

Good luck
 
I think your isolator boot has failed or the seals are bad in the bearing housing and water is leaking around the midshaft.

It's unlikely grease will seal a failed boot. It would get pushed out while under load.

The bearing housing, where the bearing and seals are, is sealed and does not have a hole to let grease flow into there.

If water has gotten to the intermediate bearing past a failed seal, it will corrode and fail over time.

Here's a write-up on it. Leaking intermediate housing...questions. - Page 2

Here's are video on pressing the midshaft into intermediate bearing housing.
He greases the inside of the seals before installing the midshaft.

Here's the parts diagram. Yamaha Boat Parts 2010 OEM Parts Diagram for Jet Unit 2 | Boats.net

Good luck
@ross l ......you are 100% correct that the bearing is sealed - however- the grease is not for the bearing itself (which- depending on the year - is sealed) it is for the bearing housing seal. The grease keeps the housing seal pliable and in full shape. You may be right that the seal may be past saving because of the water intrusion but IMO it is worth a try. :cool:
 
In my opinion you may get by with some of the suggestions above, however you will need to rebuild that bearing housing sooner than later. Yes it is a sealed bearing but the amount of water intrusion would always leave me with a unnerving feeling about when and how that bearing would fail. I found a housing rebuild kit online for $100. Dont quote me on the correct PN# for you vessel, just providing a base line for what you may expect to pay provided your doing your own maintenance. Blowsion. OEM Yamaha Midshaft Housing Rebuild Kit
 
I must agree with @Dixemon . All these things (other than replacement/rebuild) may help temporarily. But they are only forestalling the inevitable. The real fix here is to bite the bullet and fix that bearing. Just a matter of whether you want to do it now or in the middle of next season (if any of these things work). Just a guess on the timing, but I would be surprised if you get a whole season out of it with any of the temp fixes.
 
"Your entitled to your opinion but not your own set of facts." - Love that line from last night

If you're going to pay a shop $1000 for a rebuild (reuse housing- $200 Part) or $1200 to replace the housing. Your safest choice is to replace it. Much like it's recommended to replace a water pump when you replace a timing belt. A $200 investment for better future boating.

Ebay (WSM) has loaded housings for $200. It may be cheaper to supply your shop with this rather than have them buy parts and assemble it.

Here's a pic of a completely failed housing - showing rubber isolator and boot seal out of the housing. I still don't see how greasing this prolongs its life.
1602166395370.png

Good luck
 
I did not read all this because it is obvious your intermediate bearing housing is separated it needs replacing there is a bunch of info about this and I found using gear lube in with the grease will prolong the life of this part I get 650 hours on them and I also do that to my pump housing and have 850 hours on that note the intermediate bearing is NOT part of your pump housing, it is where the drive shaft exits the hull in front of the pump.. The above picture shows the rubber separating if you look closely you will see the grease fitting pumps grease in to the housing and gets under the rubber separating it over time when you force grease in between the 2 parts.
 

Attachments

  • Yamaha intermediate  drive shaft  bearing grease holes.jpg
    Yamaha intermediate drive shaft bearing grease holes.jpg
    628 KB · Views: 31
Back
Top