Impeller removal, gouged/damaged threads on shaft and impeller. built homemade shaft jig/press

[dan144k]

I have had my impellers on and off several times.
I had sent my port Solas impeller to Impros to get it adjust for a little more low end power, was cavitating bad with weight in the boat.

Went to remove stock impeller (only been installed maybe 4 months) and it was a lot more difficult than in the past. Once apart I found the impeller female threads damaged and also the shaft had damaged male thread. I always used the locktight 567 on the threads like the manual directions show.
(in the future will use a never-seize- I think)

Question:
Anybody know if you can replace the shaft easily?
Does it just slide inside the bearing in the pump housing?

Also, boat is still under warranty with Yamaha.
I spoke with Yamaha service manager and sent him pictures.
He said he would check for me.
I mentioned to him it was a threaded serviceable part and should be able to unscrew without gouging things.
Waiting for a reply, figured I would try.

 

[davel501]

This should be what you are looking for: http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003a176f870021f60a12003/jet-unit-2

 

[dan144k]

thanks for treying to look it up.
Part (shaft) is listed on jet-unit-1. item #18

question was about installing a new shaft.
Does it just unbolt and slide out?
Do you need a press?
Or is a press needed when installing new bearings into vein/bearing housing, and not really for the shaft?

 

[Bruce]

@Big Shasta, @Murf'n'surf I believe you guys have the answers.

 

[motorboater]

You need a press to change the shaft.

I had a hell of a time with replacement of my original equipment impellers. Long story short, one of them needed to be heated and split in half to come off. Some threads were mucked up like yours but in my situation I had no choice but to move ahead anyway. So I did manage to clean them up enough that the new impeller went on fully.

No idea why this happens sometimes. Luckily it seems to be rare. I had a Yamaha Waverunner dealer give up trying to remove the old one, and send me away with the job undone. They said they have replaced thousands of these over the years and never once had this happen. So who know. Before they gave up they broke a bench vise, bent the bench and messed up some of their tools. It took me and a buddy a few hours overnight to get it off, and another few hours cheaning up the threads and spinning new impeller on.

Somehow my shaft is still true. Though for sure it would be bent after the torque we put it through.

Sorry to see you are going through this. My feeling is you'll be replacing shaft and impeller and Yamaha warranty wont help.

As for why this happens, I did suck a rock into the pump with the stuck impeller so I assume the torque spun it on so tight that this happened. I can tell you I did not use loctite on the new impellers, however its possible that loctite may actually prevent the impeller from tightening further in a similar situation. I dont think mine had any loctite on them from the factory.

 

[davel501]

thanks for treying to look it up.
Part (shaft) is listed on jet-unit-1. item #18

question was about installing a new shaft.
Does it just unbolt and slide out?
Do you need a press?
Or is a press needed when installing new bearings into vein/bearing housing, and not really for the shaft?

The diagram makes it look like it is all pressed but the service manual makes the end of the shaft look threaded and does not seem to provide any help by way of instructions there either.

 

[Big Shasta]

You will need to take the cone off the other side of the duct housing and behind that is a bolt and washer on the end of the shaft. Remove them and then use an arbor press to press the shaft out. Check out this page, I just did this whole rebuild. lots of pics. If it was me, I would replace the shaft and impeller. You may be able to clean up the impeller threads with a tap and the shaft with a Die but I would replace them.

Looks like you could have had some gauling on assembly. Lots of the loctite thread sealer should prevent that but who knows, just an anomoly probably. Make sure you're putting it on both sets of threads for assembly, otherwise the forward threads just push it back as you spin it on and the back threads get none. Looks like what might have happened.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/impeller-bearings-trashed-lots-of-rebuild-pics-pg-6.2822/page-6

 

[Big Shasta]

I would also say that if you're ordering parts and going to press out the shaft to replace or repair it, order the 2 shaft seals and the oring on the cone. Items 25, 19 and 20 below. Also, be prepared to grease the bearings (if they are still good) and you can convert to gear oil like I did or add grease inside the cone. Island racing sells a grease for those bearings but I just used grease in the bearings and gear oil in the housing.

Also, item 16 (bearing) is shown in the wrong place, it should be next to 17

 

[dan144k]

thanks for the help everyone.

I have a repitched solas from impros which I was getting ready install, till problems happened. Reason for removal.

 

[Big Shasta]

Gotcha, either way you're going with the shaft, definately take the cone off and inspect the bearing grease to make sure there isn't any water in there and there is enough grease. If it spins smoothly and the grease looks good, I wouldn't press out the shaft to inspect anything further. but if your going to press out the shaft to replace it, make sure you change the seals.

 

[dan144k]

Built a jog/press last. Shaft came right out.

[ATTACH =full]12008[/ATTACH]

 

[Seadeals]

Nice work! Another great tool to have available when things go wrong. I managed just fine without a scupper wrench; but can't imagine doing without that if I ever end up in the same boat with the shaft.

 

[Big Shasta]

Nice Job. Who needs an arbor press?

 

[4x15mph]

I had the same experience with removing an impeller. I broke a bench vice and eventually brought the 1 impeller/shaft to a dealer. He struggled, tried to cut off the impeller and I was then left with buying a new shaft, a new impeller, and the cost for their time (don't know the cost yet...). The other side came off pretty easily once I used a 3 foot cheater bar.

I am waiting on the reassembly of the parts since I am having the shop press in new jet bearings to brand new impeller ducts. I keep asking "Wheres my boat at?"

 

[dan144k]

Just so people know.
The stock aluminum impeller takes a 1-1/16" open end wrench (6-point if possible) and a cheater bar.
I also checked the 27mm and both fit the impeller.

I used a 24" crescent but the hex shaft on the stock aluminum impeller has a tendency to oblong (or egg shape) and cause the wrench to slip off easily.
Just a suggestion.

 

[Big Shasta]

I used an impeller tool on the spline end in the vise and put a 27mm box end on the impeller (slipped it over before putting the shaft in the spline tool)...no cheater, just raw muscle.

 

[dan144k]

Would anybody know the thread size and pitch on the shaft and impeller?

Dealer got back to me about warranty and said no way.

I am gonna try and contact Yamaha directly.
Gonna argue (try) that this is a serviceable threaded item.
Factory defect must have caused the damage to the threads.
Myself as a mechanic have followed the directions the manual provides.

I ordered new parts already, but still gonna try with Yamaha warranty.

 

[motorboater]

Just so people know.
The stock aluminum impeller takes a 1-1/16" open end wrench (6-point if possible) and a cheater bar.
I used a 24" crescent but the hex shaft on the stock aluminum impeller has a tendency to oblong and cause the wrench to slip off easily.
Just a suggestion.

Good suggestion, however the stock impellers are not aluminum. They are stainless steel. Try cutting one!

 

[Big Shasta]

Just so people know.
The stock aluminum impeller takes a 1-1/16" open end wrench (6-point if possible) and a cheater bar.
I used a 24" crescent but the hex shaft on the stock aluminum impeller has a tendency to oblong and cause the wrench to slip off easily.
Just a suggestion.

Just so folks don't miss it...I editied my response above. I actually used a 27mm box end wrench. No slipping possible that way. Slipped it over the splined end before insterting it in the tool/vise.

 

[dan144k]

I found out drain-o will melt aluminum off stainless without harming the stainless. Gonna try next week. Will be able verify to impeller material at that time. I have read they are are stainless impellers, but gonna test anyhow.