Installing a 2nd bilge

[4x15mph]

Water comes in from the stern, cleanout tray for sure. I sealed and it has been dry so far but I installed the 2nd bilge so I could be ready for a Bimini trip. I like the idea of having redundancy for bilge and/or float switch since they can go bad or get stuck

 

[Jeff_F]

Last year we had the stock one crap out. It actually would work on manual, but I didn’t figure that out until after I had it out since it’s only wired for auto. I also wanted one on a real float switch so on the rare occasion that it sits out overnight I can have a bilge on without draining the battery.
Maybe next time I’ll run with both off and see how much water actually ends up in there now.

 

[slickstick]

Really want to install a second bilge, but hesitant to do it myself without having any chance to learn how to work on these boats first. Not sure exactly how to connect to the battery, where to run wires to battery and console for a switch, and hesitant to drill a hole on the side of the boat for the drain. All the how-tos on this forum are geared to someone who is already experienced with boating and working on these boats, no step by steps with pictures along the way.

Unless I can find someone to help who has experience, I may hire someone. What type of place would you all seek out to get this done? Someone experienced with Yamaha's would be best but I'm sure the dealer would charge a small fortune.

 

[slickstick]

Water comes in from the stern, cleanout tray for sure. I sealed and it has been dry so far but I installed the 2nd bilge so I could be ready for a Bimini trip. I like the idea of having redundancy for bilge and/or float switch since they can go bad or get stuck

How did you seal that tray? It seems to me it's flimsy and suspect for taking on water for sure.

 

[Babin Farms]

How did you seal that tray? It seems to me it's flimsy and suspect for taking on water for sure.

I just use regular sink/shower or window caulk. Easy to remove if needed, cheap and readily available

 

[Levi Weatherford]

I have an 08 230.... I added a 2and bilge pump about 6 inches in front of the drain plug and ran a whole separate discharge hose. I though the same thing about the location of the factory bilge pump... however, when they come on from rain or things like that it's always the factory one that kicks on, not my 2nd one.

I totally agree with this and would add that actually more water gets trapped forward of the engine compartment. It has always looked to me that the actual lowest point when leveled is the keel area almost inline with and under the captain chairs. There have been many times that my bilge has kicked on when I accelerated, telling me that the water forward of engine compartment gets thrown aft. I have also had a couple occasions where I left the boat outside, hooked to my truck(trailer pretty level) and it rained alot. There was no water coming out of open drain plug but when I drove off I left a trail of water coming out of drain plug. Same thing, water forward of engine compartment gets thrown rearward. I may be way off but that has been my experience. I have checked the "elevation" between the factory bilge and the bilge area under clean out access and there is hardly any difference. I know the factory bilge looks way higher at first glance but it really isn't if any. I know this isn't apples to apples by any means but for example by buddy's Nautique's lowest point is the keel area around where the ski locker is. Their factory bilge is actually located here.

 

[mark_m]

How did you seal that tray? It seems to me it's flimsy and suspect for taking on water for sure.

I didn’t seal the tray at all. The wiring?

I used 14/2 wire

Shop - Tinned Marine Wire

tinnedmarinewire.com

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-GA0004-Automotive-Standard-Socket-5/dp/B0002KR88A/ref=mp_s_a_1_67?dchild=1&keywords=fuse+battery&qid=1605491741&sr=8-67

This isn’t that hard to do; the most difficult will be to get the second bilge and float placed below the water boxes if you choose that location.

I wetslipped this season for the first time and the second bilge gives great peace of mind.

Most importantly, you can do this! Go slow and ask questions. You got this!

 

[Noko]

Really want to install a second bilge, but hesitant to do it myself without having any chance to learn how to work on these boats first.
I added a second bilge pump and it was really easy. First thing is to find a pump. The pumps are rated at different gallons per hour. I bought a float switch so the pump comes on if there is ever enough water to float the switch. The pump is wired directly to the battery so I don't have to worry about switching the pump on. Since the battery is directly wired, the pump will run whenever there is water in the bilge. I get the worry about drilling into your hull. Its really pretty easy. You get a hole cutter for your drill that will fit the drain outlet. Tape the area on the outside of the hull where you are putting the drain in before you drill. I bought a Johnson bilge pump, heres the link.

Amazon.com : Johnson Pumps 32703 Cartridge Bilge Pump with Dura-Port - 750 GPH : Boating Bilge Pumps : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Johnson Pumps 32703 Cartridge Bilge Pump with Dura-Port - 750 GPH : Boating Bilge Pumps : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

The Johnson and many pumps allow you to replace the motor and not pull the whole bilge pump if the motor dies. I used 3m-5200 sealant to glue the bottom of the pump to the keel.

https://www.amazon.com/05203-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-White/dp/B07Q3YS8FY

Heres a link to a sample drain outlet.

Amazon.com : SEAFLO Thru Hull Fittings (1") : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : SEAFLO Thru Hull Fittings (1") : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Get a couple of stainless steel clamps to secure the hose to the pump and drain outlet. If you search second bilge pump here, you'll find a lot of info.

 

[slickstick]

I just use regular sink/shower or window caulk. Easy to remove if needed, cheap and readily available

Oh you actually just sealed it shut? I guess that's one way to do it, haha

 

[mark_m]

You can do this! I was hellbent on a second bilge and eventually got there. Is the wiring perfectly ran. No. Is the thru hull fitting to drain perfect.. no. But the notches are horizontal and level on the thru hull fitting.

I put a lot of pressure on myself before wetslipping this year. Am I happy with the result? Yes. Is it perfect? No. My float switch is oriented the wrong way. But honestly, the secondary setup with the float it superior to the factory setup. I sleep well with the direct wired float driven bilge. It’s not difficult, we’re happy to help.

Honestly, getting the scupper to seal was much harder for us than the second bilge.

 

[slickstick]

Thanks for the links. Does anyone know the part number for the Yamaha thru-hull fitting so it matches? Is it the same 1 1/8" that most these pumps seem to use? I'm assuming it's best to use some sealant on the inside of the boat on the fitting, such as the 3M-5200?

 

[slickstick]

You can do this! I was hellbent on a second bilge and eventually got there. Is the wiring perfectly ran. No. Is the thru hull fitting to drain perfect.. no. But the notches are horizontal and level on the thru hull fitting.

I put a lot of pressure on myself before wetslipping this year. Am I happy with the result? Yes. Is it perfect? No. My float switch is oriented the wrong way. But honestly, the secondary setup with the float it superior to the factory setup. I sleep well with the direct wired float driven bilge. It’s not difficult, we’re happy to help.

Honestly, getting the scupper to seal was much harder for us than the second bilge.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, haha. I keep my boat at a storage spot. Probably need to spend some more time on it to study how this would work with running all the wires and the drain hose. I can't wrap my head around where you even access to install the thru-hull fitting on the inside.

Did you install a switch? Doesn't seem like much need to toggle it on since the pump should come on automatically, so debating if that's worth the effort and taking up space at the helm with a switch.

The battery setup on my boat is complicated with a ton of wires and fuses, not sure where to attach this. Literally on the battery terminals themselves or is there somewhere better? Not sure who may be familiar with the 2019 dual battery setup on theses Yamahas.

 

[drewkaree]

How did you seal that tray? It seems to me it's flimsy and suspect for taking on water for sure.

What @Babin Farms said, caulk, will work fine. I can't remember who it is, but someone on here used some closed-cell adhesive-backed weatherstripping and some speed nuts to get an easy-to-remove seal on his hatch. I got the weatherstripping, and I'm going with longer screws instead of the speed nuts. If you decide to go with the caulk just for proof of concept, you can always remove it if you find or figure out a more permanent solution. It should peel up pretty easy, and you'll have to use some acetone to remove the residue left behind, but it's easily reversible/changeable.

I've never owned a boat before this (and now I have my dad's fishing boat and a skiff), so as long as you are here, ask all the questions you need to map out your project, lay out your final results you come up with to see if anyone can find any issues with your methods, and once you're satisfied/comfortable, dive on in! No matter if someone here has worked on boats before or not, everyone, at one point in time, had never worked on a boat before, and was in the same position you are. You think you're at a disadvantage, but the only thing you lack, is your first successful project under your belt. Seal the hatch with some caulk first, and you've got an easy win. WAIT! DON'T seal your hatch first! That second bilge is gonna be easier to install if you can remove that whole hatch panel, it'll give you way more room to reach in and get around. Sealing your hatch is a good finish to that project. Best first project, unscrew one of the snaps from the carpet. If you wanna keep the carpet, screw it back in. That's two things to check off on the To-Do list

If you've got a smart phone, TAKE PICTURES OF STUFF AS YOU ARE DISASSEMBLING THEM! Just DO IT! The time to realize you should have done this is NOT after you're up to your elbows in this. Before owning my boat, I had never had more than two cables coming off of a battery before. Glad I took pics when removing the battery for winterization. Woops, that's right, no I didn't ? You have an awesome resource at your fingertips - this forum. I was able to figure out how everything went back together by checking around here.

You can do it!

 

[mark_m]

I drilled the second thru hull right behind the factory stock fitting. I removed the 6.5” speaker on the swim platform so I could connect the tubing from the bilge to the thru hull fitting.

No switch required. I have a fusible link on the battery. That powers the float switch when it is lifted/floating up, that completes the circuit and fires up the bilge. The stock switch and setup are fine and I use that as aux when I’m on the water. It is, in fact, now the secondary backup coz it is in the engine compartment and the other is in the bilge itself.

I just put it right on the hot battery terminal with an inline fuse on the house battery. I grounded it to my negative bus bar.

 

[Babin Farms]

Here is where I put the thru hull for the second bilge pump and wired mine in the same as @mark_m

https://jetboaters.net/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-boat-today.20703/post-432280

 

[mark_m]

Here is where I put the thru hull for the second bilge pump and wired mine in the same as @mark_m

https://jetboaters.net/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-boat-today.20703/post-432280

Here’s a good view of how it came together for me in the bilge.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/do-you-guys-ever-clean-the-water-box.26536/post-443565