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Leaky Scarab

alex duman

Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
1
Points
10
Boat Make
Scarab
Year
2018
Boat Model
215 ID
Boat Length
21
Hi,
I have a 2018 Scarab ID, bought new in 2018. last summer I tried clearing some seaweed from the intake by revving engine in forward and reverse. Unfortunately, in this process I blew a hole in the muffler. Muffler was leaking, took the boat back in and ordered a new muffler. replaced the muffler, but still have a leak that appears to be coming from a seal near the jet drive. When the boat is running, there's no leak, but when boat is off, water runs into the boat hull. I'm told this is an engine out fix on some type of seal. Does anyone have any info that might help? Also, I'm not having any luck locating a service manual anywhere.
 
The muffler was likely damaged because the weeds clogged the intake which is located inside the pump by the impeller. If the impeller can't produce enough pressure, there's no water coming in to cool the exhaust sytem which overheats and can literally melt plastic parts. Hopefully you understand that part now and are more careful with weeds. For some, jet boats are not for them if you happen to be in heavy sea weed area. If you do suck them up, you need to get them cleared if it's that bad. Most weeds are chewed up and spit out, but some of the heavier stuff won't. You're left with two options. One, go in the water and pull them out by hand. Two, do a "flat spin". Accelerate so that you make the biggest wake possible (note, speed isn't important). When you have a large wake behind you, spin the boat as hard as you can to one side. As the turn starts, kill the engine via the kill switch. That will spin the boat around and you'll start back surfing the wake. The water will then enter the jet nozzle from the stern and flush in the opposite direction and push weeds out the intake. But this only works sometimes and won't remove weeds stuck inside the impeller. Just on the intake grate. You can do it a few times in both directions.

The seal you're speaking of is likely the carbon seal. It's the seal that goes around the drive shaft as it exits the hull to reach the impeller. The seal is incredibly important. If it's damaged, it will cause a leak, potentially massive and can literally sink your boat. It's made of carbon and can wear out due to a few factors. Heat is usually the big culprit. This is why you are not suppose to flush the engine out of water for more than 2 min officially, and most do it well under 1 min at most. That seal is NOT cooled out of water even if you have a hose on it. Another reason is engine alignment, but that's pretty rare these days. If it's out of alignment, it will rub against the seal in one spot and wear it out. Another big/common reason is if you suck up something. I suspect this is what happened to you. If you suck up something hard, it can break that seal as well. Not as common but it does happen. Ropes especially. What type of seaweed do you have? Is it like sea stuff, super thick? That can behave like a rope.

So you likely need to replace your carbon seal. But it would be a good idea to confirm before going ahead and doing that. One of the common methods is while it's on the trailer, turn off the bilge pump and dump a bunch of water in the bilge so that it covers the drive shaft. And see if it comes out the bottom from inside the intake grate area (forward of it). You can also turn on the engine a few seconds once there's water in there to see if it accelerates the leak. Again, don't run it too long.

Carbon seal replacements are doable, but without experience and a special tool, they can be difficult. Check your PMs for more info.
 
This is extremely helpful, thank you. Ran the test and carbon seal bad. I have a mechanic working in this, but not a scarab mechanic. Can you point me in the direction of the tool I need? Also, does the engine need removal?
 
The engine shouldn't need to be removed. The tool needed is shown in the material I messaged you. I recommend they get familiar with how to do this via a sea-doo carbon seal video on YouTube. Same procedure.
 
Does this person know sea-doo? Because they should. If not, they better learn first what needs to be done. Again, details in the material I sent you.
 
The muffler was likely damaged because the weeds clogged the intake which is located inside the pump by the impeller. If the impeller can't produce enough pressure, there's no water coming in to cool the exhaust sytem which overheats and can literally melt plastic parts. Hopefully you understand that part now and are more careful with weeds. For some, jet boats are not for them if you happen to be in heavy sea weed area. If you do suck them up, you need to get them cleared if it's that bad. Most weeds are chewed up and spit out, but some of the heavier stuff won't. You're left with two options. One, go in the water and pull them out by hand. Two, do a "flat spin". Accelerate so that you make the biggest wake possible (note, speed isn't important). When you have a large wake behind you, spin the boat as hard as you can to one side. As the turn starts, kill the engine via the kill switch. That will spin the boat around and you'll start back surfing the wake. The water will then enter the jet nozzle from the stern and flush in the opposite direction and push weeds out the intake. But this only works sometimes and won't remove weeds stuck inside the impeller. Just on the intake grate. You can do it a few times in both directions.

The seal you're speaking of is likely the carbon seal. It's the seal that goes around the drive shaft as it exits the hull to reach the impeller. The seal is incredibly important. If it's damaged, it will cause a leak, potentially massive and can literally sink your boat. It's made of carbon and can wear out due to a few factors. Heat is usually the big culprit. This is why you are not suppose to flush the engine out of water for more than 2 min officially, and most do it well under 1 min at most. That seal is NOT cooled out of water even if you have a hose on it. Another reason is engine alignment, but that's pretty rare these days. If it's out of alignment, it will rub against the seal in one spot and wear it out. Another big/common reason is if you suck up something. I suspect this is what happened to you. If you suck up something hard, it can break that seal as well. Not as common but it does happen. Ropes especially. What type of seaweed do you have? Is it like sea stuff, super thick? That can behave like a rope.

So you likely need to replace your carbon seal. But it would be a good idea to confirm before going ahead and doing that. One of the common methods is while it's on the trailer, turn off the bilge pump and dump a bunch of water in the bilge so that it covers the drive shaft. And see if it comes out the bottom from inside the intake grate area (forward of it). You can also turn on the engine a few seconds once there's water in there to see if it accelerates the leak. Again, don't run it too long.

Carbon seal replacements are doable, but without experience and a special tool, they can be difficult. Check your PMs for more info.
Hi Luc, very useful info. I have scarab 195 open and I’m very interested in info you have around carbon seal replacement. I’m concerned about mine after sucking up rocks and May look to replace when I do my impeller. Cheers, Sash
 
Sorry, we get lots of newbies here. You do know the carbon seal and the wear ring are two different things? Typically, sucking up rocks will only damage the wear ring and/or impeller. But not the carbon seal.

In some relatively uncommon scenarios, you can also damage the carbon seal. But rocks causing this is a fairly low percentage.

The best thing in either case about replacing is to simply youtube these procedures on Sea-Doo. It's practically the same thing. There are differences sometimes in parts because it's a boat, but the vast majority are the same as a PWC. And there are tons of videos in that world.
 
No worries and yes I do thanks. The wear ring definitely needs replacing as it’s been gouged pretty badly. I’m looking to make a check on the seal and replace it if it’s questionable. I’ve replaced the impeller and wear ring before on my previous boat, however I’ve been warned that these carbon seals on the scarabs are something to keep an eye on due to potential of leaking.
 
Roger. So carbon seals work very well and will last a LONG time IF you follow proper procedures. This assumes it was installed and the alignment of the drive shaft/engine was done properly.

Never run the boat out of water for more than 2 min at a time. In fact, I've never ran mine out of water for longer than 60 sec. Ever. I've always been able to flush, change oil, etc. within that 60 sec time period. Follow proper exhaust flush procedure. Engine on, water on, water off, engine off, in that order.

If you do that, the carbon ring will last a very long time. 280 hours here and going strong.

Signs of an issue are the black mark that shows up as a straight line whereby the drive shaft as it spins, wears the carbon material and sprays it in a circle. This produces a nice black line against the hull. So keep that hull nice and clean and just check once in a while for that black mark.

Alternatively, if you suspect damage because of something like sucking up rocks, easiest thing to do is to turn off the auto bilge pump (aka, disconnect it), and dump a hose in the bilge. Put a bunch of water so that you cover the carbon seal. Look under the boat for a leak. If there's no leak, next is to turn on the engine. Ideal to have a friend here to minimize that engine run time. You watch under the boat where the drive shaft comes out of the hull and look if any water comes out as the engine runs. Once again, if you plan on running the engine longer than say 15 sec, I'd provide water to the exhaust system to keep it cool. You may have to get wet a bit while under the boat here. lol

That's pretty much it without taking it fully apart. If you experience no leaks, no black mark and it stays that way, then you're good to go.

But note that many thing carbon rings wear out fast... they don't unless you aren't following procedures, damage due to ropes/rocks, or it wasn't correctly installed. That last one has definitely happened even from dealers.
 
Thanks for the advice Luc, and that makes a lot sense. I.e. follow the procedures and it should last like they say in the manual.

I don’t recall it ever letting in water and ive never run it out of the water longer than 2 mins. Not sure about the previous owners which is a concern however it’s only on 30 hours and was used on lake so they may not have even flushed it being fresh water.

Thanks for your advice this has helped put things into perspective.

The next task I have is to drain intercooler as part of laying up for winter, do you know if anyone has pics of the specific pipe to take off or a video?


Roger. So carbon seals work very well and will last a LONG time IF you follow proper procedures. This assumes it was installed and the alignment of the drive shaft/engine was done properly.

Never run the boat out of water for more than 2 min at a time. In fact, I've never ran mine out of water for longer than 60 sec. Ever. I've always been able to flush, change oil, etc. within that 60 sec time period. Follow proper exhaust flush procedure. Engine on, water on, water off, engine off, in that order.

If you do that, the carbon ring will last a very long time. 280 hours here and going strong.

Signs of an issue are the black mark that shows up as a straight line whereby the drive shaft as it spins, wears the carbon material and sprays it in a circle. This produces a nice black line against the hull. So keep that hull nice and clean and just check once in a while for that black mark.

Alternatively, if you suspect damage because of something like sucking up rocks, easiest thing to do is to turn off the auto bilge pump (aka, disconnect it), and dump a hose in the bilge. Put a bunch of water so that you cover the carbon seal. Look under the boat for a leak. If there's no leak, next is to turn on the engine. Ideal to have a friend here to minimize that engine run time. You watch under the boat where the drive shaft comes out of the hull and look if any water comes out as the engine runs. Once again, if you plan on running the engine longer than say 15 sec, I'd provide water to the exhaust system to keep it cool. You may have to get wet a bit while under the boat here. lol

That's pretty much it without taking it fully apart. If you experience no leaks, no black mark and it stays that way, then you're good to go.

But note that many thing carbon rings wear out fast... they don't unless you aren't following procedures, damage due to ropes/rocks, or it wasn't correctly installed. That last one has definitely happened even from dealers.
 
Yeah, sadly it takes only one time to overheat the carbon seal. But if you can't see a black line and you do the water test, you should be good. But always keep an eye for that black mark. It takes a second.

You probably don't have water in the intercooler (or hopefully you don't), but here's a Sea-Doo video.


Just ignore the parts where they remove random other things. They do show the pipe well (and oil inside which isn't good but not surprising). This is why many Sea-Doo owners buy catch cans. But that's typically a combination of running it really hard a lot and overfilling the oil (keep it at about half on the dip stick, no more).
 
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