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LET THE DRILLING BEGIN

RobbieO

Jetboaters Captain
Messages
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1,818
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Location
Sacramento River Delta
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2021
Boat Model
212SE
Boat Length
21
Okay, so I finally grew a pair and decided I will drill 2 holes in my dash. @HangOutdoors will be proud of me (I think, lol) One for the fume detector, and another for my high water alarm. I've been researching for the correct hole saw type, and have definitely decided against anything with coarse teeth. I can't seem to find a fine tooth bi-metal hole saw. I will also use a hole saw to drill two 3/4" holes in the sides of my stern for quick release fender cleats. (Smokin Jays Garage). Any suggestions? Carbide? Diamond? TIA
 
I wouldn't even mess around with a hole saw for this application. Way too much runout. Your hole will end up looking like shit, be off center, and probably oversize. Use a reduced shank 3/4" drill bit. Get a split point if you can. Definitely start with a pilot hole. You will get a much cleaner hole.

 
Okay, so I finally grew a pair and decided I will drill 2 holes in my dash. @HangOutdoors will be proud of me (I think, lol) One for the fume detector, and another for my high water alarm. I've been researching for the correct hole saw type, and have definitely decided against anything with coarse teeth. I can't seem to find a fine tooth bi-metal hole saw. I will also use a hole saw to drill two 3/4" holes in the sides of my stern for quick release fender cleats. (Smokin Jays Garage). Any suggestions? Carbide? Diamond? TIA
I think I might throw up.... I'm crawling in my own skin thinking about putting holes in a boat.
 
It doesn't hurt to drill your pilot hole with the hole saw part off of the mandrel. Then once your hole saw is back on the mandrel, your pilot center twist bit will allow the hole saw to touch the surface at which point you will run the drill backwards gently with a little pressure to score the surface first, which greatly reduces chipping. Keep in mind that the newer the center pilot bit is, the more aggressive it may tend to be at pulling it's self in.
 
I think I might throw up.... I'm crawling in my own skin thinking about putting holes in a boat.
I may throw up once before the first hole is drilled. But I'll feel better with my alarms installed. I've been struggling with this for months. Hopefully you'll never see me sinking or blowing up on youtube.
 
I used my Spyder's and had no problem. Cleanly cut. Tape, pilot hole so it won't pull you through to quick, then start backwards till you have cut just a bit down then go forward. Not to slow or it will catch and not to fast or it could jump. It will most likely grab a bit as you go through. Same in Dash, same in gel coat. Make absolutely sure the size you are using, the OD is what you want. If it is too small you can open it up with a dremmel and a drum tip slowly. If it is to big, it will not be good.
 
Whatever hole you are going to drill, practice it on a a piece of wood and test fit your unit, what you are going to put in there.
 
Whatever hole you are going to drill, practice it on a a piece of wood and test fit your unit, what you are going to put in there.
Both alarms call for a 2 1/16" hole. I'm going with 2" but will drill a test hole as you suggested. There's no second chance if you go too big.
 
For your larger holes, get yourself one of these, and a set of calipers. They will easily cut fiberglass/plastic/wood/etc. The bad reviews on this are due to idiot hacks that don't know how to use them. And no, you don't need a drill press. They work just fine in a cordless hand drill.


See my RideSteady install. I cut a huge hole in the dash with a +/- 0.005 slip fit. Thread/Pics:


EDIT: If you go this route, make sure you know how to adjust the blades using the calipers. I.e. factoring half the diameter of the pilot drill as centerline to the tip of each blade (radius), etc. If you need help, let me know.
 
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For your larger holes, get yourself one of these, and a set of calipers. They will easily cut fiberglass/plastic/wood/etc. The bad reviews on this are due to idiot hacks that don't know how to use them. And no, you don't need a drill press. They work just fine in a cordless hand drill.


See my RideSteady install. I cut a huge hole in the dash with a +/- 0.005 slip fit. Thread/Pics:


EDIT: If you go this route, make sure you know how to adjust the blades using the calipers. I.e. factoring half the diameter of the pilot drill as centerline to the tip of each blade (radius), etc. If you need help, let me know.
You cut a nice hole with that tool, but so much can go wrong. I'll give it a try on some starboard I need to drill. Then maybe I'll feel confident enough to use on the dash. Probably going with a hole saw on the dash, but that will work great for different size holes. Thanks!
 
The above is correct, tape off and go in reverse till you’re through the gel coat. I overdid it and almost went all the way through in reverse with my set of Milwaukee hole saws that are designed for wood. Here’s a photo of the hole outcome. If you want to feel better about your hole making, go inspect the holes Yamaha made to install your trailer tie downs…looks like someone used a hammer and chisel on mine…2250F136-52EE-43DB-8D3F-5792BC2312AB.jpeg
 
Drilling into your boat is far more daunting than it is difficult. I've cut holes with fancy bimetal holesaws, raggedy cheap ass ones, regular bits and paddle bits. Just tape it off, take it slow, and you'll be fine.
 
If it makes you feel better, all boat manufacturers from the dirt cheap ones to super big yacht companies all use regular plain old hole saws for cutting holes in the boat no matter where they are. Nothing special is used. You dont need super fine tooth ones. Go slow and low pressure at first to score through the gel then once you break through to glass, have at it.
 
If it makes you feel better, all boat manufacturers from the dirt cheap ones to super big yacht companies all use regular plain old hole saws for cutting holes in the boat no matter where they are. Nothing special is used. You dont need super fine tooth ones. Go slow and low pressure at first to score through the gel then once you break through to glass, have at it.
Thank you....waiting for my hole saws from McMaster-Carr....
 
These folks have given you good advice here. Cutting the holes is always much more worrisome than actually doing it. Use tape, measure several times, be absolutely sure there's enough room in the back for your new addition, and make sure there's nothing hidden behind there to be cut. Practice on scrap wood or even thick cardboard to be sure your hole matches your added item. Patience is the key.

I added my explosion detector and high water alarm down low on the captains sidewall - near the ignition key on 242's so that they would be handy but I wouldn't have to see them on the control panel. If all else failed or I wanted to remove them later without an eyesore, I can easily cover the holes with decorative starboard later. The second picture was our subwoofer installation (which required an oscillating saw due to the large size), and our mid cockpit 6" speakers. Even with an oscillating saw, it still came out clean enough for a beautiful final installation. Still waiting for our final pair of JL Audio M6's to arrive.
 

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These folks have given you good advice here. Cutting the holes is always much more worrisome than actually doing it. Use tape, measure several times, be absolutely sure there's enough room in the back for your new addition, and make sure there's nothing hidden behind there to be cut. Practice on scrap wood or even thick cardboard to be sure your hole matches your added item. Patience is the key.

I added my explosion detector and high water alarm down low on the captains sidewall - near the ignition key on 242's so that they would be handy but I wouldn't have to see them on the control panel. If all else failed or I wanted to remove them later without an eyesore, I can easily cover the holes with decorative starboard later. The second picture was our subwoofer installation (which required an oscillating saw due to the large size), and our mid cockpit 6" speakers. Even with an oscillating saw, it still came out clean enough for a beautiful final installation. Still waiting for our final pair of JL Audio M6's to arrive.
Excellent work...My concern is being able to hear the alarms, so I need a visual. My boat is so damn loud I can't hear my wife sitting next to me. So I'm still deciding on location. My hole saws came today, so I've got the talkin part done. Time for action. LOL
 
Excellent work...My concern is being able to hear the alarms, so I need a visual. My boat is so damn loud I can't hear my wife sitting next to me. So I'm still deciding on location. My hole saws came today, so I've got the talkin part done. Time for action. LOL
You're going to hear those two alarms. Test them before you install and you'll see.
 
You're going to hear those two alarms. Test them before you install and you'll see.
I previously installed the high water alarm, I'm just relocating it. Haven't tested it underway yet. I've been boating mostly solo.
 
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