Now i know why it takes forever to charge those wet batteries, one of the things I hate Is the fact that my boat is in storage 40 minutes away and I don't get to do the things I want since is not readily accessible plus the place have no electricity so I have to bring it home and take it back the same day because of the HOA rules....

the best thing for me is to pay a qualified marine tech to do the work but that would be more than a grand, so I wonder if is worth it. You have been very helpful with all those info, yiu need to come down to So. Florida to do my install but I can only pay in food and beer...lol
I understand about the HOA thing…. Here’s another idea for you.
Set up your battery connections with quick disconnects, a two prong plug for each battery, maybe another set for those yellow cables. Looks like you might need to add a buss bar or two? It would be super simple if you can keep the connection on both batteries to just one two prong plug, but you get the idea.
Looks like your batteries have lifting straps, and the hold down straps look simple and quick to loosen or tie down.
All his is so you can take the batteries with you when you leave the boat. Set up an area to charge the batteries at your house and then take the fully charged batteries with you to your boat. Yeah a bit of a pita, but properly set up it won’t take more than 5-10 mins max to R&R the batteries. Just clean them up good with baking soda and water to get any acid off of the outside of them, and don’t over water the batteries.
I think you will be surprised at how much more capacity the batteries have when properly charged. FLA batteries are tough battle axes, they’ve been around for a very long time and are the best dollar per kilowatt storage next to LFP batteries.
Yes, a bit pricey to install the BEP switch and such, but in the end probably well worth it.
The PMA alternators are compact and simple but have limited charging power, if yours are anything like the Yamaha’s they’re probably about 200 watts / 14A max output at 3500 rpm on up and roughly half at idle. As I’ve said in my battery thread the LFP batteries are a good marriage with these PMA systems with their super low resistance and 5x faster charging rate that can take advantage of the PMA’s constant full output. In fact I just ran a test on mine last week, I ran my LFP house battery down to 55% on purpose while out salmon fishing by leaving the DVSR off while trolling all day and the live well pump on in addition to the MFD / fish finder, I did this to see just how much charge I’d get at the lower SOC on the LFP house battery. On the run back to the boat ramp cruising at 6500 rpm, I turned on the DVSR and watched the smart shunt, initial charge rate was over 34 amps, then it dropped down to 28A, then 25A over the next few minutes, stayed at 21A for a while and eventually settled at 17A for the rest of the 30 minute trip. I thought this was pretty good considering the charge strategy is for lead acid batteries to keep from boiling the electrolyte. There is a water cooled plate that my Regulator/ Rectifier mounts to, looks like yours may be the same, this is necessary since the cooling fins are not going to work very well in an enclosed engine compartment. My dirt bike has what looks like the same reg/rect and it’s mounted up on the steering head so there’s plenty of air flow, same type of charging system and same wattage as the boat motors.
I see 14.1 to 14.4 volts on my batteries when they are fully charged and the engines are running.
Thanks for the invite! You’re the third person to invite me to South Florida, it would be a great trip during winter! Where I’m at the water becomes a solid during winter, and your chilly winter time temps would be balmy for me!