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New Jet Boater, Need Tech Help: Mercury 175 XR2 Sport Jet in Sea Rayder F16

Speedycop

Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
1
Points
10
Boat Make
SeaRay
Year
1997
Boat Model
SeaRayder
Boat Length
16
Hey folks! I'm a gearhead and automotive oddities builder, but i'm looking for help as I'm new to working on boats. I have a 1997 Sea Rayder F16 with the Mercury sport jet 175 XR2 carbed engine. I bought the boat and trailer for $700 with no backstory other than it ran when parked and now has no spark. The dash is showing just 87 hours, but the boat has been sitting for years. It cranks and sounds like it has good compression.

The current stator looks iffy, but it is a CDI part # 174-9873-16, which should be a 16 amp setup. I talked to a boat parts seller who is not familiar with these, but was adamant that it should be a 40 amp setup, and that my flywheel is 40 amp. The flywheel is a 271 817832C, but the magnets were all loose and moved (glue failed). They aren't broken, but I can't find a guide to glue them back with the correct spacing and polarity.

Been researching for many hours, but can't find a consensus on what OEM parts it should have to restore spark. Is it 40 amp or 16 amp? I want to be sure to get the right stator and flywheel, as they obviously aren't cheap. Anyone have parts laying around for these 175 HP 2 stroke Sport Jet motors? Tips?

Thanks!
 

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Before you dive to far into the electrical. Verify your compression. Sounds like it has good compression isnt good compression.
That engine is just a power head from a mercury outboard and chances are you will need more than a flywheel and stator. An almost 40 year old boat with low hours for 700 with a trailer could be a money pit
 
Thanks for the input! Valid point on the compression, but it's definitely not getting spark. I have a compression tester. I'll have to check it.
 
I was reviewing the service manual as I might be also in the market for a new stator. I noticed the manual references a 12 amp stator. With a 16-amp stator, I presume the regulator will have to rectify from 16 to 12 amps all the time and I’m not sure about its implications; does anyone know? There are several 16 amp stators for sale on ebay, etc. but I couldn’t find a 12 amp one.
 

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I was reviewing the service manual as I might be also in the market for a new stator. I noticed the manual references a 12 amp stator. With a 16-amp stator, I presume the regulator will have to rectify from 16 to 12 amps all the time and I’m not sure about its implications; does anyone know? There are several 16 amp stators for sale on ebay, etc. but I couldn’t find a 12 amp one.
The regulator/rectifier takes a/c voltage and converts it to 12 to 14 dc voltage amps has nothing to do with it. It take depending on the output anywhere from 35 volts to as much as 90 volts. Different applications have different voltages. You can do a continuity text between the 3 legs from the stator and if running you do a a/c voltage test between the 3 legs
 
The regulator/rectifier takes a/c voltage and converts it to 12 to 14 dc voltage amps has nothing to do with it. It take depending on the output anywhere from 35 volts to as much as 90 volts. Different applications have different voltages. You can do a continuity text between the 3 legs from the stator and if running you do a a/c voltage test between the 3 legs
Thanks for the feedback.
 
Hey folks! I'm a gearhead and automotive oddities builder, but i'm looking for help as I'm new to working on boats. I have a 1997 Sea Rayder F16 with the Mercury sport jet 175 XR2 carbed engine. I bought the boat and trailer for $700 with no backstory other than it ran when parked and now has no spark. The dash is showing just 87 hours, but the boat has been sitting for years. It cranks and sounds like it has good compression.

The current stator looks iffy, but it is a CDI part # 174-9873-16, which should be a 16 amp setup. I talked to a boat parts seller who is not familiar with these, but was adamant that it should be a 40 amp setup, and that my flywheel is 40 amp. The flywheel is a 271 817832C, but the magnets were all loose and moved (glue failed). They aren't broken, but I can't find a guide to glue them back with the correct spacing and polarity.

Been researching for many hours, but can't find a consensus on what OEM parts it should have to restore spark. Is it 40 amp or 16 amp? I want to be sure to get the right stator and flywheel, as they obviously aren't cheap. Anyone have parts laying around for these 175 HP 2 stroke Sport Jet motors? Tips?

Thanks!
Hello, I have the same boat and engine that I bought last year for $300 with 166 hours. This is my first boat as well. I had the same issue of getting spark on the port side. Turns out it was a switch box. You definitely want to check compression before doing any electrical work. Mine had 145 - 150 psi between all 6. Here is the website for part number. I have gotten part on eBay. https://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury/oem-parts/sport-jet/1997/1175j01td
It’s a great boat. Top speed was 45 with 3 adults.
Feel free to send a message for any help.

Ricky
 

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Always wanted one of those when I was a kid. Had similar boats but never the sea rayder.

Regarding the 2.5L mercurys, those oil pumps are notorious for failing and then the motor for oil. Crappy plastic gear on the crankshaft strips and then stops spinning the oil pump. There was a company that used to make an electric oil pump replacement, or you can mix your fuel and oil like the old days to be safe. Just fyi.
 
Always wanted one of those when I was a kid. Had similar boats but never the sea rayder.

Regarding the 2.5L mercurys, those oil pumps are notorious for failing and then the motor for oil. Crappy plastic gear on the crankshaft strips and then stops spinning the oil pump. There was a company that used to make an electric oil pump replacement, or you can mix your fuel and oil like the old days to be safe. Just fyi.
It’s lots of fun especially doing donuts on this boat. The gear shaft on the oil pump had a metal one on mine. I removed it and went with premix 50-1. Also added a water fuel separator on mine just for added insurance since the previous owner had it sitting over 20+ years. I removed the old fuel which was non ethanol thank lord. I just need to figure out how to remove the motion sensor on the oil pump shaft since it was beeping every 2 min. I still want to keep the temp alarm. Otherwise great little starter boat.
 
I had a copy I printed off the interwebs somewhere that lists and has step by step for deleting the oil system. I will look and see if I still have it when I get there.
I am pretty sure it is still floating around out there somewhere. Maybe even got it off of here?
 
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