• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Guest, we are pleased to announce that Hydrophase Ridesteady is offering an extra $100 off for JETBOATERS.NET members on any Ridesteady for Yamaha Speed Control system purchased through March 7th, 2025. Ridesteady is a speed control system (“cruise control”) that uses GPS satellites or engine RPM to keep your boat at the set speed you choose. On twin engine boats, it will also automatically synchronize your engines.

    Click Here for more information>Ride Steady group buy for JetBoaters.net members only

    You can dismiss this Notice by clicking the "X" in the upper right>>>>>

No wake switch = check engine light

jtink

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
42
Reaction score
19
Points
127
Location
45245
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2012
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
21
So 3 weeks ago I took my 2012 210 sx to the dealer. I was getting an intermittent check engine light at start up or low speeds.
They could not get the check engine light to come on, they tested the thermostat (s) and found both engines were running at 160 degrees and stats should open at 140. That must be your problem. Since there were no stored codes.

Took the.boat out for the first time after repairs, check engine light immediately, turn off wait then start again, all is fine.
Took the boat back to the dealer. This time they got the light to come on, then able to connect to software, said starboard engine no wake switch is failed.
They then switched the starboard and port switches and the check engine light followed to port side.

My question is, it sounds like this is the problem, however I see alot of people on here say the no wake switch is usually a sign of voltage issues. I have two batteries on a switch, I have tried running on either battery and on both batteries together and still have the alarm.
Thoughts....
 
How old are the batteries? Stock? Yank them and take them to the local auto parts store for a test.

Of course, the price of a switch is cheap. But I don't think I have ever seen an error code from a switch. There is a first time for everything, tho...

(my bet is still batteries or something)
 
Battery 1 (start) is one year old
Battery 2 (radio) is about 2 years old
 
Ok. My bet is the switch.

(kidding, but those are too new to likely be the batteries; replace the switch, but I bet it turns out to be something else)
 
Battery 1 (start) is one year old
Battery 2 (radio) is about 2 years old
I just bought a 2013 AR190 (from a forum member here) and have the same issue. I have the switch on order, but curious if you ever figured out your problem.
 
If the problem followed the switch, it might be the switch.
 
I know this is an old post but I’m having the same problem with my 2018 AR240. I’m getting a Starboard engine warning light. The alarm goes off every 10ish minutes even when not using the no wake assist. Boat runs great, no issues. Have also discovered that when using my no wake mode the rpms are not matching. Took to mechanic who ran a diagnostic and discovered error code 75 and 76 ”no wake cruise assist.” Has anyone figured out how to fix? I haven’t had my batteries tested and yes my boat has a large sound system on it. Never accord to me that could be causing it. I will see about testing my batteries (I have two marine batteries) but if they check out fine, any suggestions for my next move?
 
I know this is an old post but I’m having the same problem with my 2018 AR240. I’m getting a Starboard engine warning light. The alarm goes off every 10ish minutes even when not using the no wake assist. Boat runs great, no issues. Have also discovered that when using my no wake mode the rpms are not matching. Took to mechanic who ran a diagnostic and discovered error code 75 and 76 ”no wake cruise assist.” Has anyone figured out how to fix? I haven’t had my batteries tested and yes my boat has a large sound system on it. Never accord to me that could be causing it. I will see about testing my batteries (I have two marine batteries) but if they check out fine, any suggestions for my next move?
Mine ended up being an electrical connection. Check all of your wire harnesses and make sure they are all connected and snug.
 
Mine ended up being an electrical connection. Check all of your wire harnesses and make sure they are all connected and snug.
I’m going to do that today. I found in another post they replaced their transistor. I really hope your fix will be my fix!! That’ll be the easier one!?
 
I think the best advice was already stated .........clean all connections on the back of the cruse switch and see if the switch has any gaps that you can spray electronics cleaner inside to clean the contacts. The dealer manuals wire diagram revels that that switched is looped wired into every dash switch before going back towards the engines and it also shares a ground wire with the entire dash. Yes it can cause a dash warning.....on my boat it gives a AL visual on my LCD screen if the switch runs into a problem............I have caused an AL warning on my screen by running in cruse at idle and throttling back on either engine (removing cruse one one engine only) AL flashes until I remove cruse on the other engine or shut down and restart.

Now this tells me the switch can also be upset if the throttle switch is out of sync or possible throttle switch is having trouble THIS little SWITCH loops all over the boat so finding the cause could be daunting. BUT THE ADVICE TO CLEAN WIRES/contacts is a vary good start..........then followed by switch replacement.

Just my .02 worth
 
Try taking your port switch and connecting it to starboard and starboard to port. See if the problem follows the switch. If not then not the switch.
 
I think the best advice was already stated .........clean all connections on the back of the cruse switch and see if the switch has any gaps that you can spray electronics cleaner inside to clean the contacts. The dealer manuals wire diagram revels that that switched is looped wired into every dash switch before going back towards the engines and it also shares a ground wire with the entire dash. Yes it can cause a dash warning.....on my boat it gives a AL visual on my LCD screen if the switch runs into a problem............I have caused an AL warning on my screen by running in cruse at idle and throttling back on either engine (removing cruse one one engine only) AL flashes until I remove cruse on the other engine or shut down and restart.

Now this tells me the switch can also be upset if the throttle switch is out of sync or possible throttle switch is having trouble THIS little SWITCH loops all over the boat so finding the cause could be daunting. BUT THE ADVICE TO CLEAN WIRES/contacts is a vary good start..........then followed by switch replacement.

Just my .02 worth
Good advice. I’ll try that and see what happens. I’m away on work for a few weeks. When I get back I’m gonna give it a shot and let you know. Thanks!
 
Try taking your port switch and connecting it to starboard and starboard to port. See if the problem follows the switch. If not then not the switch.
Great idea! I’m gonna try this too! Thanks!!
 
Hello again. I’ve looked at the wiring and everything seems ok. I am a little confused when you mention switching switches. I looked under the dash where the plug meets the control but it’s just one plug attached to the control. Is there another switch you’re referring to?
 
Hello again. I’ve looked at the wiring and everything seems ok. I am a little confused when you mention switching switches. I looked under the dash where the plug meets the control but it’s just one plug attached to the control. Is there another switch you’re referring to?
There is some "no wake" wiring in the engine compartment on front wall to the side. I'm not sure if there is wiring on both sides or just one side and then it goes to both engines. But mine was on the port side near the battery wall. Inside it there is a small resistor that may have gone bad. That's what happened on my 2015. Replaced it and all good!
 
There is some "no wake" wiring in the engine compartment on front wall to the side. I'm not sure if there is wiring on both sides or just one side and then it goes to both engines. But mine was on the port side near the battery wall. Inside it there is a small resistor that may have gone bad. That's what happened on my 2015. Replaced it and all good!
I’m gonna work on it again this Friday and will certainly give your fix a try. I’ve found, unfortunately, that most fixes aren’t working for my boat because everything was changed on the 2018 models and newer. All the successful fixes are on 2017 and older. It’s driving me crazy! ?
 
I’m gonna work on it again this Friday and will certainly give your fix a try. I’ve found, unfortunately, that most fixes aren’t working for my boat because everything was changed on the 2018 models and newer. All the successful fixes are on 2017 and older. It’s driving me crazy! ?
Here's the link to the original thread that I found when I had the issue.


Does seem to be mostly pre-2017 boats on that thread but hopefully this is something that hasn't changed for you!
 
Back
Top