Oil Change: Questions

[Robert Sands]

Hi All,

I plan on changing my own oil and I've got a few questions.

1. What tools are required for the job?
2. After how many hours does it need to be changed. After reading I'm confused if it's 10hrs or 25hrs.
3. When it's time to change the engine oil, does the boat give you a light, such as the check engine light or the oil pressure light?

If there are any people from Canada reading, where do you buy your supplies such as oil, plugs, filters?

Thanks.

 

[ScarabMike]

@Robert Sands

1. Oil Pump. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OCEGONC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
2. T4 oil. 1 gallon of XPS synthetic blend oil or equivalent. Rotella T6 5W40 (blue Bottle) is excellent!
3. Filter and O-rings. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEADOO-OIL-...005&rk=3&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=141462370897&rt=nc

BRP indicated change oil after every 100 hours or once a year. Personally I change mine every 50 hours or once a year.
It will give you a "Maintenance Due" light. If you ever get an oil pressure light, Do not operate the boat. The Rotax engine operates at an extreme levels.

 

[Robert Sands]

Ok, thank you very much. I'll grab all that, and luckily I'm a ways away from an oil change by the looks of it.

 

[Master]

I thought the manual said to change oil in the first 10 hour maintenance?

 

[ScarabMike]

@Master That's the break in oil change and inspection. That should be done by your dealer especially with these boats. Don't take a risk.

 

[CocoLoco]

It will give you a "Maintenance Due" light.

Can the light be removed/cancelled by us or only by the dealer?

 

[Slugger55]

@Robert Sands I know @ScarabMike told you to use a particular oil removal pump, but he and I changed the oil in my 2016 Yamaha FX SVHO yesterday and we used this product:

http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-quart-High-Speed-Change/dp/B00EVIO7YM

and it did an awesome job. We were both very impressed with its performance.

 

[Robert Sands]

Great looking product, I'll put it on order. Thanks a lot.

 

[Slugger55]

When you get it you will find another cap inside the box, it is for replacing the suction hose cap for transport with oil in the container. I am looking for something to screw onto the opening where the pump housing screws on...

 

[Robert Sands]

Ok, good to know. Thanks again.

 

[eticket]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but it's spot on for my question...

I'd like to change my oil in the garage rather than move the boat outside. Partly because I'd rather avoid the extra work but also because it is suppose to rain this weekend. Other than working with more viscous oil, is there any downside to changing the oil "cold" versus warming up the engines first? I am thinking if my pump can suck it out, then why not? Besides, the old oil will all be in the sump (it is still in Winter storage), versus some of it being all over the engine if I run it first. I am also thinking if I add in just the same amount as I took out then I can even avoid running the engines afterwards, deferring that and any top up of the oil until later. Thoughts?

 

[Slugger55]

If you are sucking the oil out through the dip stick tube, you really need to heat that oil up.. Kinda like molasses, the warmer it is the easier it moves..

 

[Pirana]

@eticket that's how I do it. But I do love in a warmer climate

 

[eticket]

I suppose "cold" is a relative term...just checked and my garage is 68deg! I will give it a shot this weekend. If the old oil flows the same as the new, it should pump out. If not, tough lesson learned!

 

[Mark Brannon]

@Master That's the break in oil change and inspection. That should be done by your dealer especially with these boats. Don't take a risk.

The 2015 HO that I just purchased has 8 hrs on it....guessing it was from the dealer using it for demos. The dealer is about 3hrs away. Would you recommend having the 10hr oil change done before taking delivery, rather than trailer in the boat back and forth 3hrs each way? When I asked the dealer, they told me the break in oil isn't changed until 25hrs and that they'd perform the 10hr inspection prior to delivery. I figured I'd just clear the maintenance light with the candoo pro at 10hrs, if that's the case. Thoughts?

 

[jpass]

Keep in mind when you do change the oil, you'll need to run the engine for 10 seconds at 4000 RPMS, then shut it down at 4000 revs. This will move oil out of the PTO and into the oil pan. Once you drain the oil, you'll then need to put the engine in "flood mode", engage full throttle and hit the starter for several seconds to move any remaining oil out of the PTO and into the oil pan (you do this several times until there is no more oil being sucked out).

It's a fairly simple process, but it should take no more than 1 hr per motor with oil, filter, o-ring, and plug change.

 

[Chad]

Just an FYI, engaging full throttle from the helm on a Scarab will not allow the engines to turn over. The only way the engines will attempt to start is by having the boat in neutral. I have not been successful in trying this directly from the throttle body either. I did this by diconnecting the injector plugs and coil packs from the spark plugs.

 

[jpass]

Just an FYI, engaging full throttle from the helm on a Scarab will not allow the engines to turn over. The only way the engines will attempt to start is by having the boat in neutral. I have not been successful in trying this directly from the throttle body either. I did this by diconnecting the injector plugs and coil packs from the spark plugs.

This is true on the sea doo models as well. Remember that while the manufacturers are different, the motors, jet drives and electronics are primarily BRP in both variations. Our 2012 is fly by wire, so to perform the full throttle portion of the oil change you first need to put the boat in "Flood Mode". This mode allows 2 functions with the 1st being to allow you to pump the cylinders after water ingestion and spark plug removal. The 2nd being to pump the oil from the PTO to the oil pan during an oil change. It's basically a way to kill the ignition system to prevent the motor from firing.

To engage "Flood Mode" on our boat, you have to zip tie the TPS unit under the helm in the full position (where the physical throttle cable meets the control module that then sends the signal to the FBW electronic throttle body). If the scarabs aren't fly by wire, I believe you then do it manually down at the throttle body.

I believe they refer to it as"Drown Mode" in this video, but the process is the same with all modern BRPs that I know of.

This video highlights the winterization process of a modern BRP engine. The beginning is the oil change portion (same as the boats). At the 1:40 mark, he goes over the PTO pumping process.

 

[eticket]

Following up on my post, the oil change in the garage was no problem (at 68 deg). I used a West Marine 6.5L oil extractor and it only needed about 15 pumps to fully evacuate each engine.

Also, I did not realize I was posting in a Scarab forum..so sorry about that guys!

 

[ScarabMike]

Oil changes are some of the small things Yamaha, and Rotax have in common. Still an informative post!

Following up on my post, the oil change in the garage was no problem (at 68 deg). I used a West Marine 6.5L oil extractor and it only needed about 15 pumps to fully evacuate each engine.

Also, I did not realize I was posting in a Scarab forum..so sorry about that guys!