Picking up my New 2021 FSH 195 sometime this week...

[HangOutdoors]

on my GT56 I found I get the best reading with a slight downward angle. So the back of the transducer is a few degrees lower. This helped at speed. Yesterday I was getting decent Sonar Readings at 34 mph. Couldn't go much faster was getting bounced around. I was using the highest CHIRP as well.

 

[bubbasuwannee]

on my GT56 I found I get the best reading with a slight downward angle. So the back of the transducer is a few degrees lower. This helped at speed. Yesterday I was getting decent Sonar Readings at 34 mph. Couldn't go much faster was getting bounced around. I was using the highest CHIRP as well.

interesting. I’ll try and put more downward angle if that’s what it takes. Definitely seems like something that has to be played with in order to get right. Thanks!

 

[bubbasuwannee]

Adjusting the angle of the transducer help r to see depth at higher speeds. Might have to adjust it downward a tad more, but it’s working great except at 40+ thanks for the suggestions!
Have just over 7 hours on the motor now. Boat is awesome, we love it!

 

[HangOutdoors]

Adjusting the angle of the transducer help r to see depth at higher speeds. Might have to adjust it downward a tad more, but it’s working great except at 40+ thanks for the suggestions!
Have just over 7 hours on the motor now. Boat is awesome, we love it!

Glad it worked out foryou. It did for me and it is what is recommended by garmin. Can't find the document where I read that. Thought it was 3-5 degrees down. It is nice shooting the bottom at 40 mph.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

We went out yesterday and another thing I'm kinda noticing is the throttle seems pretty dead(little to no RPM increase) when coming off neutral. I really have to push up into the first detent before I get any real increase in power. This goes for reverse as well. Not sure if this is by design or not. It's probably not a bad idea for this when docking/undocking to minimize giving too much power.

Something else I noticed was my fuel gauge is still reading 100%...I'd have thought after 3+ hours of engine time, my gauge would've moved. Not sure how many gallons I've used, but we mostly used slow speeds so far with the occasional 30+

After spending quite a bit of time yesterday, this boat really is a ton of fun and easy to use; especially for a first time boat owner. Seems to have a ton of power to get up to speed with ease.

The reason your throttle feels dead coming off neutral in either direction Is because this is where you are directing the thrust for forward or reverse. The initial movement forward to the first detent just opens the reversing bucket up to what is called Thrust Directional Enhancer position. At this point the bucket is only partially open and some thrust is being directed down to help with directional control at low speed / thrust. If you try using the no wake mode to increase rpm / thrust in this position you will find you have more directional control, as the boats speed is increased. As you continue to push the throttle up the reversing bucket is fully opened, you are now in idle ahead and the reversing bucket is fully retracted and all thrust is going directly out the back and you will have more forward speed. Be sure to return engine rpm’s to idle with the no wake mode button before increasing engine speed further with the throttles.

Using the TDE position with the no wake mode will give you a lot more directional control at low thrust.

Hows your fuel gauge working now that you have burned a bit more fuel? On your connext screen there is a page where it will show fuel used. @fatboyroy was having the same issue with the %fuel gauge, and he found as did I that the fuel used was far more accurate to determine fuel used / remaining.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Good call! I totally forgot to check the hubs.

Be sure you do not fully compress the diaphragm spring when you add grease to the bearing buddies. Room needs to be left for the grease to expand when it gets hot.

You will probably find that it takes several greasings on the bearing buddies as the grease is pushed into the voids in the hub and displaces the air, this is totally normal.

 

[fatboyroy]

My fuel gauge starts moving after consuming over 10 gallon... 93% fuel reading = 15 gallon used on mine

 

[bubbasuwannee]

The reason your throttle feels dead coming off neutral in either direction Is because this is where you are directing the thrust for forward or reverse. The initial movement forward to the first detent just opens the reversing bucket up to what is called Thrust Directional Enhancer position. At this point the bucket is only partially open and some thrust is being directed down to help with directional control at low speed / thrust. If you try using the no wake mode to increase rpm / thrust in this position you will find you have more directional control, as the boats speed is increased. As you continue to push the throttle up the reversing bucket is fully opened, you are now in idle ahead and the reversing bucket is fully retracted and all thrust is going directly out the back and you will have more forward speed. Be sure to return engine rpm’s to idle with the no wake mode button before increasing engine speed further with the throttles.

Using the TDE position with the no wake mode will give you a lot more directional control at low thrust.

Hows your fuel gauge working now that you have burned a bit more fuel? On your connext screen there is a page where it will show fuel used. @fatboyroy was having the same issue with the %fuel gauge, and he found as did I that the fuel used was far more accurate to determine fuel used / remaining.

Thanks for that detailed explanation. I figured it out just by driving the boat some more. I have yet to use the wake mode button yet, but will experiment with it next time out. Also, my fuel gauge started to move...I'm at roughly 50% fuel remaining at 7 engine hours. Hopefully 1 more outing and I'll be ready for our 10 hour post break in service.

The other thing I've encountered is throttle slip...where the throttle lowers after releasing the lever. I've made some adjustments to the flat head tension screw on the underside of the throttle, but it still does it. Not sure I want to tighten that screw too much.

Thanks again for all the help! Definitely lots to learn!

 

[bubbasuwannee]

Be sure you do not fully compress the diaphragm spring when you add grease to the bearing buddies. Room needs to be left for the grease to expand when it gets hot.

You will probably find that it takes several greasings on the bearing buddies as the grease is pushed into the voids in the hub and displaces the air, this is totally normal.

I got some Lucas Marine grease for bearings/hubs and pumped some in there. On my other bearing buddies(on my ATV trailer) there's a weep hole..so if I pump them all the way, it will vent some out the side. I noticed these don't have the same hole. Hard to tell if I added too much or not enough grease.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I got some Lucas Marine grease for bearings/hubs and pumped some in there. On my other bearing buddies(on my ATV trailer) there's a weep hole..so if I pump them all the way, it will vent some out the side. I noticed these don't have the same hole. Hard to tell if I added too much or not enough grease.

I think the RV ones are designed with the overfill hole to let out the grease and prevent rupturing the seal on the hub. It is my understanding that boat trailer wheel hubs are designed with the intent to keep water out, ergo, no over fill bleed hole on the marine type.

I think the bearing buddies for marine use are supposed to let the overfilled hub to allow the grease out around the diaphragm or piston as opposed to having an overfill hole. By the way, those over fill hole types make one hell of a mess when they do let go!

Just be sure the spring on the diaphragm is not coil bound so it has some room to expand and you should be good.

 

[bubbasuwannee]

I think the RV ones are designed with the overfill hole to let out the grease and prevent rupturing the seal on the hub. It is my understanding that boat trailer wheel hubs are designed with the intent to keep water out, ergo, no over fill bleed hole on the marine type.

I think the bearing buddies for marine use are supposed to let the overfilled hub to allow the grease out around the diaphragm or piston as opposed to having an overfill hole. By the way, those over fill hole types make one hell of a mess when they do let go!

Just be sure the spring on the diaphragm is not coil bound so it has some room to expand and you should be good.

That makes perfect sense. I think I'm good with how much I put in the hubs then. Any chance you know the tube diameter on the T-top? Specifically the crossbars? Looking to mount a rear view mirror.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

That makes perfect sense. I think I'm good with how much I put in the hubs then. Any chance you know the tube diameter on the T-top? Specifically the crossbars? Looking to mount a rear view mirror.

I think it is 1.5” but not sure. From other posts people used a 1.5” bar clamp to mount spreader lights and vhf radio antenna’s.

 

[Can0n11]

Just brought my wheels in for a tire upgrade, Noticed that I was starting to develop uneven tire wear (outer). Checked tire pressure and I was running 33psi both sides. Tire recommendation on the side wall is 50psi cold. I went Shorelander and put the trailer serial number in, cant really find a reference to manu. rec. pressure. Whats everyone using here?