Replaced my anchor locker drain fitting due to leaks

[drewkaree]

Do you have some mysterious leak in your boat and you can't figure out where it's coming from? Well, if you found this thread from a search, you're trying to track it down, and you've maybe even taken a look in there to see what people might be talking about, and if your boat is affected. My money is on EVERY one of the models that have an anchor locker drain having this issue with varying degrees, with the best situation being that the fitting juuuuuuuuuuust reaches inside the anchor locker.

I've removed the piece inside my anchor locker that would support an anchor that fits the location. I don't use that type, so I removed it long ago, and noticed that there's an issue with the drain. A search around here shows the fix for many. I saw @Yambers fix, and he shared the info on where he got it from. I did one more thing before making a purchase, and you should too. Remove YOUR anchor locker drain fitting and measure what's already there. I have seen info posted that simply does not match up with what I have, but that's not that person's fault, that may have worked for them. They may have needed to modify theirs, so that WOULD be their fault, as they did not note any modifications, sanding, or drilling that they might have had to do. Don't take my word for it, or anyone else's word for it, check your own situation, or be prepared to suffer the consequences of more work or returning parts or even worse.

My very own Amazon order directs me to the wrong fitting. Not sure if mine is the exact one that @Yambers used, but I bought an Amarine stainless steel fully threaded 3/8" thru-hull fitting. My Amazon order directs me to the correct type and manufacturer, but they do not show the size I used. At the very least, here's one that is identical to what I used:

Amazon.com : NRC&XRC Stainless Steel Barbed Short Straight Thru-Hull with Custom Gasket for 3/8" I.D (3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : NRC&XRC Stainless Steel Barbed Short Straight Thru-Hull with Custom Gasket for 3/8" I.D (3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

The plastic thru-hull fitting on the outside of the boat was simply pressed in. The fitting looks to have been threaded, and they simply shoved it in, mangling the threads and using the threads as an aid to turn the fitting into a friction fit item - see the pic of the flange measurement to see what I'm talking about. They really boogered up that fitting, and you'll need to take into account that metal threads will require a bigger hole or a smaller fitting, and if you go plastic, you'll either need to find a gorilla to shove your longer fitting in there, or get a smaller fitting, or enlarge the hole somehow. There was absolutely no sealant anywhere on the fitting as well. Yours may be different. You may need a knife or blade to sever the sealant bond. You will need one anyway if you choose to follow my method, so you'll be prepared.

I used some painter's tape, an x-acto knife with a fresh blade, and some 4200 or 5200, I can't recall which one I used, but either should be fine. Additionally, I took some steps to shorten the stainless thru-hull fitting I got to replace the crappy OEM fitting which would require some additional tools. That's up to you if you want to do it. Some have, some haven't, it's your boat, make your own decision. I shortened mine so it wouldn't get caught up on anything I put in there. I'm going to be following @Sotally Tober's example and putting some fenders in there, since my Mantus anchor won't fit. If you're using an anchor that fits in the anchor locker, you might HAVE to shorten yours to get it to fit with the divider piece that goes in there.

If you have the divider in your anchor locker, remove it. Now you're ready to go. Get some plastic automotive body panel removal tools from somewhere. You CAN just use a screwdriver or putty knife, but the risk of gouging my gelcoat was enough for me to use what I believe is the correct tool for the job. It SHOULD take some effort, but yours might not, YMMV. Once it's out, measure the thing like I stated above. Don't take my word for it, but if it's close enough, you may want to risk it and follow my lead. You've been warned. Here's mine - diameter of the tube that is SUPPOSED to go all the way into the anchor locker drain, and diameter of the OEM flange. My replacement is better in every way. I forgot to get a pic of the inside of the OEM fitting, but it's 1/2". The metal fitting I'm replacing it with is 3/8" ID, because remember, they smashed the plastic one in. I could get an exact replacement 1/2" fitting, but I'd have to do some sanding to enlarge both holes to accomodate the metal fitting. I want ZERO water getting in, but for now, I'll settle for LESS water, I went with 3/8" ID.

 

[drewkaree]

I didn't give you the length of the fitting above, because it was too short. This is the entire reason to at least look at your anchor locker drain, since it may be letting in anywhere from drops to a nice flooding. I think it was in the leak-finding thread where @Julian pointed out (or many others, if he was just repeating info) that at slow/no-wake speeds with people in the bow, the anchor locker drain is forced under water. If your fitting is anything at all like mine (and many are), you are unknowingly filling your bilge with water.

I could tell from inside the anchor locker that my fitting was too short. Just HOW short it was required me to check this out. I used a piece of wood that fit inside the OEM fitting, and had the wife flush it up with the outside of the fitting, and I marked the point at which it entered the anchor locker. Here's how short mine was - the space between the end of the fitting and that blue mark was allowing water to dump into my bilge.



Here's the measurement of the BARE MINIMUM needed on MY boat to reach the inside of the anchor locker - yours may be different, but it seems that any replacement fitting is more than long enough, which makes me wonder just what the heck the OEM fitting was supposed to be for, and WHY is it so dang short in many forum members' boats.



My new fitting was more than long enough. In addition, I REALLY lucked out, and the nut for the fitting snugged up flush to the inner wall of the anchor locker. For many others, this was not the case, and yours may be the same. I'd recommend that you first seal the fitting to the outer hull and make sure everything is cured, and then go back in there and seal around the fitting where it enters the anchor locker with some caulk or 4200 to keep water from leaking back through the hole. It'll be a far smaller amount of water than the problem OEM you might have, but you can still do better. Look around for examples, as I do not plan on sealing mine since I've got a nut flush with this, I'm simply going to add a rubber o-ring and call it good.

 

[drewkaree]

As you can see, the fitting extends considerably farther into the anchor locker than even the best OEM example you can find on the forums. I'm going to trim that, because that excess requires the anchor locker to be filled with more water before it would ever start to drain. It's not getting into the bilge anymore, but I want as little water to be left in there as I can get. To that end, I cut the excess off before I installed the fitting. If you have not done this before, maybe get a friend who can help you. If you want to undertake this next part, pay attention - put the fitting into the hole and tighten the nut down to where its final position will be. Mark the threads so you know where your minimum is that you cannot cut, as I did here:



LEAVE THE NUT ON THE FITTING, DO NOT REMOVE IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! If you have the tools to deal with the threads, you likely don't need to be told this, but for all the rest who may not know this, when you cut the end off, you will have SERIOUS problems threading that nut back on until those threads get fixed. To get around that, you will use the nut to clean up those threads. Loosen and tighten that nut until it spins smoothly, and DO NOT REMOVE IT UNTIL IT SPINS FREELY! Use a brass brush or files or whatever you need to do to get those threads cleaned up so it will allow you to easily thread that nut on when you do your final installation. Use whatever tool you wish to trim off the excess, sawzall, hacksaw, Dremel, etc. Just don't take the dang nut off until you no longer feel it catching on the end that you just cut off.

Now that that's done, put some sealant around the hole or on the flange of the fitting, tighten down the nut inside the anchor locker, and let it cure. I used 4200 (5200?), and since it would be noticeable, I took the following steps to ensure the cleanest end result.

Tape over the fitting. Make sure it's taped well beyond the area that the flange will cover, like so:




Take whatever cutting tool you wish to use, and trim the tape at the flange. My X-acto knife with the wife's fancy blade she unknowingly borrowed me worked out great for this. The curved end slid nicely along the edge and wasn't as "poke-y" as a regular blade. Still had issues with the tape, but that's an easy fix. Go at a low angle, like this:




When finished cutting around, peel off the circle covering the fitting. You can see even a fresh blade can have issues






Use the cutoff circle to fix any issues, try to make it as nice as possible. You're going to be using this to get a nice clean finish, so take some time to make it look as pretty as possible.





Once you're done with that, put your sealant on, and either tape the fitting into place on the outside of the boat while you clamber on up in there to put the nut back on, or have a helper feed the fitting in and hold it in place for you until you tighten the nut. The opening should show you just exactly where you can put your sealant. Don't worry about putting on too much, that's what the tape is for. This is especially needed for 4200/5200, since that stuff is like baby poop, it gets everywhere no matter how hard you try to contain it!




I wish I had pics of the final result, but I had to put the cover back on as it was starting to rain. When I can pull the cover off next weekend, everything should be cured, and I can show you the inside as well. If anyone wants some pics of the other stuff I may have glossed over, lemme know, and I'll try to fill in any blanks for you.

 

[zipper]

@Yamaha? How about some QC.

 

[drewkaree]

@Yamaha? How about some QC.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

As you can see, the fitting extends considerably farther into the anchor locker than even the best OEM example you can find on the forums. I'm going to trim that, because that excess requires the anchor locker to be filled with more water before it would ever start to drain. It's not getting into the bilge anymore, but I want as little water to be left in there as I can get. To that end, I cut the excess off before I installed the fitting. If you have not done this before, maybe get a friend who can help you. If you want to undertake this next part, pay attention - put the fitting into the hole and tighten the nut down to where its final position will be. Mark the threads so you know where your minimum is that you cannot cut, as I did here:

View attachment 150142

LEAVE THE NUT ON THE FITTING, DO NOT REMOVE IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! If you have the tools to deal with the threads, you likely don't need to be told this, but for all the rest who may not know this, when you cut the end off, you will have SERIOUS problems threading that nut back on until those threads get fixed. To get around that, you will use the nut to clean up those threads. Loosen and tighten that nut until it spins smoothly, and DO NOT REMOVE IT UNTIL IT SPINS FREELY! Use a brass brush or files or whatever you need to do to get those threads cleaned up so it will allow you to easily thread that nut on when you do your final installation. Use whatever tool you wish to trim off the excess, sawzall, hacksaw, Dremel, etc. Just don't take the dang nut off until you no longer feel it catching on the end that you just cut off.

Now that that's done, put some sealant around the hole or on the flange of the fitting, tighten down the nut inside the anchor locker, and let it cure. I used 4200 (5200?), and since it would be noticeable, I took the following steps to ensure the cleanest end result.

Tape over the fitting. Make sure it's taped well beyond the area that the flange will cover, like so:

View attachment 150146


Take whatever cutting tool you wish to use, and trim the tape at the flange. My X-acto knife with the wife's fancy blade she unknowingly borrowed me worked out great for this. The curved end slid nicely along the edge and wasn't as "poke-y" as a regular blade. Still had issues with the tape, but that's an easy fix. Go at a low angle, like this:

View attachment 150147


When finished cutting around, peel off the circle covering the fitting. You can see even a fresh blade can have issues

View attachment 150148

View attachment 150149


Use the cutoff circle to fix any issues, try to make it as nice as possible. You're going to be using this to get a nice clean finish, so take some time to make it look as pretty as possible.

View attachment 150150



Once you're done with that, put your sealant on, and either tape the fitting into place on the outside of the boat while you clamber on up in there to put the nut back on, or have a helper feed the fitting in and hold it in place for you until you tighten the nut. The opening should show you just exactly where you can put your sealant. Don't worry about putting on too much, that's what the tape is for. This is especially needed for 4200/5200, since that stuff is like baby poop, it gets everywhere no matter how hard you try to contain it!

View attachment 150151


I wish I had pics of the final result, but I had to put the cover back on as it was starting to rain. When I can pull the cover off next weekend, everything should be cured, and I can show you the inside as well. If anyone wants some pics of the other stuff I may have glossed over, lemme know, and I'll try to fill in any blanks for you.

Awesome post as usual @drewkaree !

I’ve been chasing some water in the bilge myself. Sometimes there is none, other times there is more, usually after I was the deck down with copious amounts of water using the 5 gallons bucket that came with the boat. I have sealed up the main deck drain as it would pee a little stream when the area around the deck drain was full. Next was the floor locker between the seats, I tightened the latching by adjusting the latch, but, again I had more water than I should have in the bilge at the end of the day, not too much, maybe a gallon. The anchor locker drain is next and you have provided a great write up for this fix.

May I ask what fitting you purchased for this fix?

 

[drewkaree]

Awesome post as usual @drewkaree !

I’ve been chasing some water in the bilge myself. Sometimes there is none, other times there is more, usually after I was the deck down with copious amounts of water using the 5 gallons bucket that came with the boat. I have sealed up the main deck drain as it would pee a little stream when the area around the deck drain was full. Next was the floor locker between the seats, I tightened the latching by adjusting the latch, but, again I had more water than I should have in the bilge at the end of the day, not too much, maybe a gallon. The anchor locker drain is next and you have provided a great write up for this fix.

It's sometimes hard to visualize how things are on others' boats - I'm wondering if the main deck drain you're referencing is the scupper, or some other FSH drain that's not on the runabout's. As for the floor locker, that sounds like the FSH equivalent of the ski locker. If that has the white 3-rib vinyl seal all around it, save your efforts on trying to tighten the hatch to it, it's a POS that has very little adhesion, in addition to very little sealing area, from what I've seen.

I had another issue with the drain plug assembly inside the ski locker that I fixed as well, that required replacing the whole fitting. There was no sealant underneath the fitting whatsoever, and they boogered up the fitting when they screwed it in. I had to cut the fitting just to be able to unscrew it for removal. I'm hoping it proves to be water-tight once I can get my boat on the water.

May I ask what fitting you purchased for this fix?

This isn't the the exact fitting, but this is the manufacturer (Amarine), and the type of fitting - fully threaded thru-hull fitting. They no longer show the 3/8" fitting at this link, and this is where my Amazon order points to, so I know they USED to have it available.

Amarine-made Straight Thru-Hull Valve Fitting Fully Threaded Stainless Steel 316 Boat Thru Hull for 1-1/2 Inch Interior Diameter Hose Thru Drain Boat Hose - - Amazon.com

Amarine-made Straight Thru-Hull Valve Fitting Fully Threaded Stainless Steel 316 Boat Thru Hull for 1-1/2 Inch Interior Diameter Hose Thru Drain Boat Hose - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Check the first post out again - I edited it to post a link to another 3/8" fitting, if that's what yours requires. I purchased a 1/2" fitting from that vendor for my cleanout tray drain, they make a quality product as well, I wouldn't anticipate any issues with the smaller fitting.

 

[Yambers]

@FSH 210 Sport
May I ask what fitting you purchased for this fix?

Are you asking about the anchor locker part? I bought the below, which is also a 3/8. HURRY if this is what you want. Amazon shows 3 left.

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

It's sometimes hard to visualize how things are on others' boats - I'm wondering if the main deck drain you're referencing is the scupper, or some other FSH drain that's not on the runabout's. As for the floor locker, that sounds like the FSH equivalent of the ski locker. If that has the white 3-rib vinyl seal all around it, save your efforts on trying to tighten the hatch to it, it's a POS that has very little adhesion, in addition to very little sealing area, from what I've seen.

I had another issue with the drain plug assembly inside the ski locker that I fixed as well, that required replacing the whole fitting. There was no sealant underneath the fitting whatsoever, and they boogered up the fitting when they screwed it in. I'm hoping it proves to be water-tight once I can get my boat on the water.



This isn't the the exact fitting, but this is the manufacturer (Amarine), and the type of fitting - fully threaded thru-hull fitting. They no longer show the 3/8" fitting at this link, and this is where my Amazon order points to, so I know they USED to have it available.

Amarine-made Straight Thru-Hull Valve Fitting Fully Threaded Stainless Steel 316 Boat Thru Hull for 1-1/2 Inch Interior Diameter Hose Thru Drain Boat Hose - - Amazon.com

Amarine-made Straight Thru-Hull Valve Fitting Fully Threaded Stainless Steel 316 Boat Thru Hull for 1-1/2 Inch Interior Diameter Hose Thru Drain Boat Hose - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Check the first post out again - I edited it to post a link to another 3/8" fitting, if that's what yours requires. I purchased a 1/2" fitting from that vendor for my cleanout tray drain, they make a quality product as well, I wouldn't anticipate any issues with the smaller fitting.

The main deck drain is a L head fitting / drain in the center of the boat just below the fire extinguisher port that is flush with the deck. The 190 series has two on either side of the deck in the corners and they drain right out the side of the boat above water line.




On the engine side of the fire wall there is a 1.5” line that leads to a scupper type of drain, rubber flap to keep water from coming in.

Thanks for the info on the floor hatch and the POS gasketing. Yes it is the FSH version of a ski locker just smaller, let’s call it the bucket locker.



One thing just occurred to me that I have not done yet, and that is to secure that compartments drain plug to see if the water is getting in there… duh. ( this will also help in identifying if the problem is the anchor locker drain) On my FSH there are three drain plugs, one in the aforementioned ”bucket” locker, one in the center console hold/head/changing room, and the other is on the fuel cell compartment, that one always stays closed and I’ve never had any water come out of that one. I have never seen any indication that the drain plug in the bucket locker is messed up, but I will check it to make sure it is not how yours was.

So, a question just occurred to me… if water gets forced by the OEM fitting, does that mean that water is going into the anchor locker and then drains out?

Thanks for the link! Looks like a cornucopia of thru hull fittings !

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

@FSH 210 Sport
May I ask what fitting you purchased for this fix?

Are you asking about the anchor locker part? I bought the below, which is also a 3/8. HURRY if this is what you want. Amazon shows 3 left.

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Thanks @Yambers ! I didn’t notice the need to hurry!

 

[drewkaree]

So, a question just occurred to me… if water gets forced by the OEM fitting, does that mean that water is going into the anchor locker and then drains out?

Your L-fitting is a much nicer-looking version of my deck drain leading to the scupper valve. I don't believe I'll ever find a metal replacement for it, but eventually I'll take a look at it to see if there's something I can do with a grinder and some sealant.

If you're referring to the OEM anchor locker fitting, in my case, there was a significant gap that would allow water to simply dump into the bilge, and any water that made the Dukes Of Hazzard leap into the anchor locker would simply accumulate until there was enough in there to flow back out the hole...and into the gap, down into the bilge. The design makes SOME sense, in that anything that comes in should simply flow right back out, if everything is sealed and fits properly.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Your L-fitting is a much nicer-looking version of my deck drain leading to the scupper valve. I don't believe I'll ever find a metal replacement for it, but eventually I'll take a look at it to see if there's something I can do with a grinder and some sealant.

If you're referring to the OEM anchor locker fitting, in my case, there was a significant gap that would allow water to simply dump into the bilge, and any water that made the Dukes Of Hazzard leap into the anchor locker would simply accumulate until there was enough in there to flow back out the hole...and into the gap, down into the bilge. The design makes SOME sense, in that anything that comes in should simply flow right back out, if everything is sealed and fits properly.

Just went out and checked mine.. I will have to verify the length with more daylight and some assistance, but the fitting in my anchor locker appears to protrude into the anchor locker about 1/4”. I went ahead and ordered the stainless fitting you linked as something that will get replaced in the future, nearest future if I suspect a leak there, and for sure this season otherwise. Not happy with the press-to-matic fit. Mine also has sealant around it, how good it is sealed remains to be seen, but, if it’s anything like the clean out tray, or the fuel tank access hatch, it’s not sealed well.

Here’s a link to Marine east that has all kinds of fittings. MarineEast -- Products

 

[drewkaree]

Here’s a link to Marine east that has all kinds of fittings. MarineEast -- Products

Jeez-o-Pete, the deck fitting leading to the scupper seems to be the 7110W at that site. $20 for a piece of plastic, just unbelievable. Looking at these, it appears that my fitting is either cracked, or cut to fit the area by the assembler at Yamaha.

They have a mock thru-hull fitting if anyone wanted to simply plug off the opening. Not sure I'd ever go with that, since the fitting is plastic, and I can just seal the metal fitting with a plug for easy removal, or caulk for something more permanent. Still, good to know something like that is even available.

That link is a pretty good find!

 

[drewkaree]

Your L-fitting is a much nicer-looking version of my deck drain leading to the scupper valve. I don't believe I'll ever find a metal replacement for it, but eventually I'll take a look at it to see if there's something I can do with a grinder and some sealant.

If you're referring to the OEM anchor locker fitting, in my case, there was a significant gap that would allow water to simply dump into the bilge, and any water that made the Dukes Of Hazzard leap into the anchor locker would simply accumulate until there was enough in there to flow back out the hole...and into the gap, down into the bilge. The design makes SOME sense, in that anything that comes in should simply flow right back out, if everything is sealed and fits properly.

Here's a shot I found of my anchor locker when I was initially investigating this, and the crap job they did. The actual gap isn't too bad, but is allowing the water to simply soak that area considered a win? I'ma go with a big fat no. The threads don't make a watertight seal for keeping water out of the bilge, and the part they cut too short isn't the same size as the rest of the hole. I'm glad I was finally able to address this, and I think this will help with my efforts to control the water entering my boat.

 

[Eriejetboater]

Same story - here’s mine from delivery day. Haven’t gotten around to fixing yet but will in 2 weeks I think.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Here's a shot I found of my anchor locker when I was initially investigating this, and the crap job they did. The actual gap isn't too bad, but is allowing the water to simply soak that area considered a win? I'ma go with a big fat no. The threads don't make a watertight seal for keeping water out of the bilge, and the part they cut too short isn't the same size as the rest of the hole. I'm glad I was finally able to address this, and I think this will help with my efforts to control the water entering my boat.

View attachment 150216

Wowzer! That’s way no good…. Mine doesn’t look anything like that, as I said above, the plastic fitting protrudes into the locker about 1/4”. I couldn’t get a pic last night, was standing on the trailer holding 300’of rode, and keeping the drift anchor pushed out of the way.

Thanks for the pic @drewkaree!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

As you can see, the fitting extends considerably farther into the anchor locker than even the best OEM example you can find on the forums. I'm going to trim that, because that excess requires the anchor locker to be filled with more water before it would ever start to drain. It's not getting into the bilge anymore, but I want as little water to be left in there as I can get. To that end, I cut the excess off before I installed the fitting. If you have not done this before, maybe get a friend who can help you. If you want to undertake this next part, pay attention - put the fitting into the hole and tighten the nut down to where its final position will be. Mark the threads so you know where your minimum is that you cannot cut, as I did here:

View attachment 150142

LEAVE THE NUT ON THE FITTING, DO NOT REMOVE IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! If you have the tools to deal with the threads, you likely don't need to be told this, but for all the rest who may not know this, when you cut the end off, you will have SERIOUS problems threading that nut back on until those threads get fixed. To get around that, you will use the nut to clean up those threads. Loosen and tighten that nut until it spins smoothly, and DO NOT REMOVE IT UNTIL IT SPINS FREELY! Use a brass brush or files or whatever you need to do to get those threads cleaned up so it will allow you to easily thread that nut on when you do your final installation. Use whatever tool you wish to trim off the excess, sawzall, hacksaw, Dremel, etc. Just don't take the dang nut off until you no longer feel it catching on the end that you just cut off.

Now that that's done, put some sealant around the hole or on the flange of the fitting, tighten down the nut inside the anchor locker, and let it cure. I used 4200 (5200?), and since it would be noticeable, I took the following steps to ensure the cleanest end result.

Tape over the fitting. Make sure it's taped well beyond the area that the flange will cover, like so:

View attachment 150146


Take whatever cutting tool you wish to use, and trim the tape at the flange. My X-acto knife with the wife's fancy blade she unknowingly borrowed me worked out great for this. The curved end slid nicely along the edge and wasn't as "poke-y" as a regular blade. Still had issues with the tape, but that's an easy fix. Go at a low angle, like this:

View attachment 150147


When finished cutting around, peel off the circle covering the fitting. You can see even a fresh blade can have issues

View attachment 150148

View attachment 150149


Use the cutoff circle to fix any issues, try to make it as nice as possible. You're going to be using this to get a nice clean finish, so take some time to make it look as pretty as possible.

View attachment 150150



Once you're done with that, put your sealant on, and either tape the fitting into place on the outside of the boat while you clamber on up in there to put the nut back on, or have a helper feed the fitting in and hold it in place for you until you tighten the nut. The opening should show you just exactly where you can put your sealant. Don't worry about putting on too much, that's what the tape is for. This is especially needed for 4200/5200, since that stuff is like baby poop, it gets everywhere no matter how hard you try to contain it!

View attachment 150151


I wish I had pics of the final result, but I had to put the cover back on as it was starting to rain. When I can pull the cover off next weekend, everything should be cured, and I can show you the inside as well. If anyone wants some pics of the other stuff I may have glossed over, lemme know, and I'll try to fill in any blanks for you.

The best tool to have around for fixing threads is a small three cornered mill file.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I put the SS drain in mine and removed the crap they had in there stock.

Was thinking there may be even a better way, especially if you want to put a keel guard on higher up, like I have been contemplating doing. Anyhow my thought is to possibly drill a hole and let it drain just below the cup holders onto the deck up in the bow. Put a real nice thru hull fitting there. Since our boats are self bailing, and there really isn't much water ever coming from there, it would then travel into the ski locker channels then back and out the scupper. Then you could seal the front hole completely and Keel Guard over it, OR put a real nice small plug in it, OR glass over it. Alternatively you could use a hose and run it back through the boat and let it dump out on the deck or run the hose under the deck and let it dump out in either the Gas or Ski Locker Channel.

I dunno, just thinking about stuff. Not sure it is worth the effort.

 

[Yambers]

I put the SS drain in mine and removed the crap they had in there stock.

Was thinking there may be even a better way, especially if you want to put a keel guard on higher up, like I have been contemplating doing. Anyhow my thought is to possibly drill a hole and let it drain just below the cup holders onto the deck up in the bow. Put a real nice thru hull fitting there. Since our boats are self bailing, and there really isn't much water ever coming from there, it would then travel into the ski locker channels then back and out the scupper. Then you could seal the front hole completely and Keel Guard over it, OR put a real nice small plug in it, OR glass over it. Alternatively you could use a hose and run it back through the boat and let it dump out on the deck or run the hose under the deck and let it dump out in either the Gas or Ski Locker Channel.

I dunno, just thinking about stuff. Not sure it is worth the effort.

Dont you have enough projects going on? Haha

 

[RobbieO]

Do you have some mysterious leak in your boat and you can't figure out where it's coming from? Well, if you found this thread from a search, you're trying to track it down, and you've maybe even taken a look in there to see what people might be talking about, and if your boat is affected. My money is on EVERY one of the models that have an anchor locker drain having this issue with varying degrees, with the best situation being that the fitting juuuuuuuuuuust reaches inside the anchor locker.

I've removed the piece inside my anchor locker that would support an anchor that fits the location. I don't use that type, so I removed it long ago, and noticed that there's an issue with the drain. A search around here shows the fix for many. I saw @Yambers fix, and he shared the info on where he got it from. I did one more thing before making a purchase, and you should too. Remove YOUR anchor locker drain fitting and measure what's already there. I have seen info posted that simply does not match up with what I have, but that's not that person's fault, that may have worked for them. They may have needed to modify theirs, so that WOULD be their fault, as they did not note any modifications, sanding, or drilling that they might have had to do. Don't take my word for it, or anyone else's word for it, check your own situation, or be prepared to suffer the consequences of more work or returning parts or even worse.

My very own Amazon order directs me to the wrong fitting. Not sure if mine is the exact one that @Yambers used, but I bought an Amarine stainless steel fully threaded 3/8" thru-hull fitting. My Amazon order directs me to the correct type and manufacturer, but they do not show the size I used. At the very least, here's one that is identical to what I used:

Amazon.com : NRC&XRC Stainless Steel Barbed Short Straight Thru-Hull with Custom Gasket for 3/8" I.D (3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : NRC&XRC Stainless Steel Barbed Short Straight Thru-Hull with Custom Gasket for 3/8" I.D (3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

The plastic thru-hull fitting on the outside of the boat was simply pressed in. The fitting looks to have been threaded, and they simply shoved it in, mangling the threads and using the threads as an aid to turn the fitting into a friction fit item - see the pic of the flange measurement to see what I'm talking about. They really boogered up that fitting, and you'll need to take into account that metal threads will require a bigger hole or a smaller fitting, and if you go plastic, you'll either need to find a gorilla to shove your longer fitting in there, or get a smaller fitting, or enlarge the hole somehow. There was absolutely no sealant anywhere on the fitting as well. Yours may be different. You may need a knife or blade to sever the sealant bond. You will need one anyway if you choose to follow my method, so you'll be prepared.

I used some painter's tape, an x-acto knife with a fresh blade, and some 4200 or 5200, I can't recall which one I used, but either should be fine. Additionally, I took some steps to shorten the stainless thru-hull fitting I got to replace the crappy OEM fitting which would require some additional tools. That's up to you if you want to do it. Some have, some haven't, it's your boat, make your own decision. I shortened mine so it wouldn't get caught up on anything I put in there. I'm going to be following @Sotally Tober's example and putting some fenders in there, since my Mantus anchor won't fit. If you're using an anchor that fits in the anchor locker, you might HAVE to shorten yours to get it to fit with the divider piece that goes in there.

If you have the divider in your anchor locker, remove it. Now you're ready to go. Get some plastic automotive body panel removal tools from somewhere. You CAN just use a screwdriver or putty knife, but the risk of gouging my gelcoat was enough for me to use what I believe is the correct tool for the job. It SHOULD take some effort, but yours might not, YMMV. Once it's out, measure the thing like I stated above. Don't take my word for it, but if it's close enough, you may want to risk it and follow my lead. You've been warned. Here's mine - diameter of the tube that is SUPPOSED to go all the way into the anchor locker drain, and diameter of the OEM flange. My replacement is better in every way. I forgot to get a pic of the inside of the OEM fitting, but it's 1/2". The metal fitting I'm replacing it with is 3/8" ID, because remember, they smashed the plastic one in. I could get an exact replacement 1/2" fitting, but I'd have to do some sanding to enlarge both holes to accomodate the metal fitting. I want ZERO water getting in, but for now, I'll settle for LESS water, I went with 3/8" ID.

View attachment 150125

View attachment 150126

Do you have some mysterious leak in your boat and you can't figure out where it's coming from? Well, if you found this thread from a search, you're trying to track it down, and you've maybe even taken a look in there to see what people might be talking about, and if your boat is affected. My money is on EVERY one of the models that have an anchor locker drain having this issue with varying degrees, with the best situation being that the fitting juuuuuuuuuuust reaches inside the anchor locker.

I've removed the piece inside my anchor locker that would support an anchor that fits the location. I don't use that type, so I removed it long ago, and noticed that there's an issue with the drain. A search around here shows the fix for many. I saw @Yambers fix, and he shared the info on where he got it from. I did one more thing before making a purchase, and you should too. Remove YOUR anchor locker drain fitting and measure what's already there. I have seen info posted that simply does not match up with what I have, but that's not that person's fault, that may have worked for them. They may have needed to modify theirs, so that WOULD be their fault, as they did not note any modifications, sanding, or drilling that they might have had to do. Don't take my word for it, or anyone else's word for it, check your own situation, or be prepared to suffer the consequences of more work or returning parts or even worse.

My very own Amazon order directs me to the wrong fitting. Not sure if mine is the exact one that @Yambers used, but I bought an Amarine stainless steel fully threaded 3/8" thru-hull fitting. My Amazon order directs me to the correct type and manufacturer, but they do not show the size I used. At the very least, here's one that is identical to what I used:

Amazon.com : NRC&XRC Stainless Steel Barbed Short Straight Thru-Hull with Custom Gasket for 3/8" I.D (3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : NRC&XRC Stainless Steel Barbed Short Straight Thru-Hull with Custom Gasket for 3/8" I.D (3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

The plastic thru-hull fitting on the outside of the boat was simply pressed in. The fitting looks to have been threaded, and they simply shoved it in, mangling the threads and using the threads as an aid to turn the fitting into a friction fit item - see the pic of the flange measurement to see what I'm talking about. They really boogered up that fitting, and you'll need to take into account that metal threads will require a bigger hole or a smaller fitting, and if you go plastic, you'll either need to find a gorilla to shove your longer fitting in there, or get a smaller fitting, or enlarge the hole somehow. There was absolutely no sealant anywhere on the fitting as well. Yours may be different. You may need a knife or blade to sever the sealant bond. You will need one anyway if you choose to follow my method, so you'll be prepared.

I used some painter's tape, an x-acto knife with a fresh blade, and some 4200 or 5200, I can't recall which one I used, but either should be fine. Additionally, I took some steps to shorten the stainless thru-hull fitting I got to replace the crappy OEM fitting which would require some additional tools. That's up to you if you want to do it. Some have, some haven't, it's your boat, make your own decision. I shortened mine so it wouldn't get caught up on anything I put in there. I'm going to be following @Sotally Tober's example and putting some fenders in there, since my Mantus anchor won't fit. If you're using an anchor that fits in the anchor locker, you might HAVE to shorten yours to get it to fit with the divider piece that goes in there.

If you have the divider in your anchor locker, remove it. Now you're ready to go. Get some plastic automotive body panel removal tools from somewhere. You CAN just use a screwdriver or putty knife, but the risk of gouging my gelcoat was enough for me to use what I believe is the correct tool for the job. It SHOULD take some effort, but yours might not, YMMV. Once it's out, measure the thing like I stated above. Don't take my word for it, but if it's close enough, you may want to risk it and follow my lead. You've been warned. Here's mine - diameter of the tube that is SUPPOSED to go all the way into the anchor locker drain, and diameter of the OEM flange. My replacement is better in every way. I forgot to get a pic of the inside of the OEM fitting, but it's 1/2". The metal fitting I'm replacing it with is 3/8" ID, because remember, they smashed the plastic one in. I could get an exact replacement 1/2" fitting, but I'd have to do some sanding to enlarge both holes to accomodate the metal fitting. I want ZERO water getting in, but for now, I'll settle for LESS water, I went with 3/8" ID.

View attachment 150125

View attachment 150126

I measured my new 3/8" fitting and it's .650 on the threads....you were measuring the shank, not the threads, right? I should be ok.