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Replacing Steering Cables - Salt Water

My tech shared a couple of things with me as I watched him replace the cables.

He counted the turns on the yokes as he removed them - replaced with same number of turns to keep jet alignment.

He had to use some heat on one nut with the O2 sensor wrench. Said it wasn’t uncommon to find one bound up.

When feeding the cables thru from the front storage/helm area, he was careful to not hit the nipple extending up on the fuel pump which is under the access port between the helm and engine compartment. It’s an expensive mistake as the the pump is $700+.

When eyeballing the jet alignment he suggested angling each jet slightly toward the rudder/middle. He said it helps reduce wandering. I have to take his word on this as I haven’t been out yet.

He strongly recommended replacing with OEM cables. He said the aftermarket ones were not very good.

I asked why he didn’t reseal the access cover by the cleanout ports. His words were “it’s not necessary.” Not sure I agree with him, but I will definitely be watching and if it seems like there’s more water in the bilge I can seal it and/or add the JBP riser.

It took him less than three hours to complete the job.

The steering is ridiculously easy now!
I would agree that it “may” not be necessary to seal up the clean out tray IF, there is no leakage past the clean plugs and up the tubes, and, if you get rid of that drain that is on the clean out tray as it is totally unnecessary on our boats because we that hose big slots on either side of the clean out tray. Other wise a thin bead of silicone / seal & peel is necessary. Before the O ring at the bottom of the clean out plug well I had installed the JBP mechanical riser which also helped.. that and the anchor locker drain fix-thanks @drewkaree - sealing up the rod holders and cup holders that drained into the bilge, especially the cup holders on the storage pods, these looked like one of those rain shower heads when water was on top of the storage pod, the bilge in my boat was totally dry, except if I use the wash down extensively haven’t figured that one out yet 🤔. But if I only use the wash down some zero water comes out.

I did some poking around and the main issue is that these cables are not the best they could be. The higher end cable systems are filled with grease from the factor and have very good seals on them that not only keep the grease in, they keep the water out. So, folks like @Bugslayer and I think @Dixemon who filled their cables with oil then clamped a piece of hose over the rod that retained this oil have had no further issues. Sounds like an opportunity for an aftermarket product…

Thanks for finishing up your thread and I hope that you get many many hours on the boat this season! Pictures!
 
Kawasaki uses a rubber bellows on some of their cables. I've put them on most everything. I remove the cable end fitting, fill the bellows with grease, slide it on the cable, secure it in place with tie-wraps, then re-install the cable end. Be sure to count the number of turns on the cable end when you remove it. Kawasaki part number: 49016-3702 Cost is about $4.
This seems like a good idea if it would fit over the larger outside diameter of the fixed side of the cable. Can you confirm that it does? The holes look small.

Google search pic for others:
1775858986784.jpeg

I just jammed the open end of the cable full of beeswax and put the small rubber seals back on over the wax as I've seen suggested on other threads.
 
I was thinking about using billows a few years ago but could find anything that would work. I may order the Kawasaki ones, need to figure out a good way to fill with gear oil once it's installed.
 
This seems like a good idea if it would fit over the larger outside diameter of the fixed side of the cable. Can you confirm that it does? The holes look small.

Google search pic for others:
View attachment 244537

I really don't know. Different boats have different cables. I don't think I've put them on my Exciter boats, but I don't remember. I haven't done anything to my SR 230 yet. They are kind of stretchy and flexible.

If you try some, the postage will cost you more than the parts.
 
I bought a couple of the Kawasaki bellows and I think they would be excellent. They fit the cable, but are too short for the 210 FSH. The throw on the cable is about 5”- 6” (sorry didn’t have a rule) and the bellows are 3 1/2” relaxed. Unfortunately they extend only about an inch.

There has to be a simple solution…something that extends over the exposed cable shaft that could be filled with marine grease to add another layer of protection against water protrusion. A longer bellow would work, I will be looking…
 
I bought a couple of the Kawasaki bellows and I think they would be excellent. They fit the cable, but are too short for the 210 FSH. The throw on the cable is about 5”- 6” (sorry didn’t have a rule) and the bellows are 3 1/2” relaxed. Unfortunately they extend only about an inch.

There has to be a simple solution…something that extends over the exposed cable shaft that could be filled with marine grease to add another layer of protection against water protrusion. A longer bellow would work, I will be looking…
Thanks for sharing. I had ordered some as well, and your post saved me the effort!

However @AZMark post above gave me the idea of doing a reverse image search. Certainly appear to be other potential options out there that could fit.


1776729299303.png
 
I ran the part thru AI (Perplexity) and it had ideas, but your search appears to turned up some better leads.
 
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So I may be confused here (yep). @Exciter 220 did you only use the bellows over the end of the cables when they exit the stern, or did you cover the area from the wiper/seal to the end of the cable where it attaches to the jet?

I was initially thinking the bellows covered the exposed cable/rod to slightly past the wiper/seal. But re-reading your post it seems like you protected the cable from the stern to the wiper…

Picture for reference
 

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