AirGreg
Active Member
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
- 5
- Points
- 30
- Boat Make
- Scarab
- Year
- 2015
- Boat Model
- Impulse
- Boat Length
- 17
I read a lot here, but was going to give some of my experience. English is not my first language so bear with me.
I bought a 2015 scarab 165 G used. Lot of fun but got it for a good price, but also came with a lot of issues. I been taking care of them one after one. So here is a few and some easy some harder.
P0122 . TAS. I had a lot of issues with this in the beginning. Could not for my life figure out what was wrong. Even had a mechanic look at it without any success. Turns out that if you follow the electric harness from the boat to the back, right next to the battery there is a bundle that simply had one cable that got disconnected. A lot of fail search turned in to a 2 min fix.
The engine got overheated. There is a water pump in the bottom that has a valve that is suppose to open at 165f but to then circulate to the plate under the boat. Did not really happen. Instead it got over heated. I bought a new pump. That was a hard job haning upside down in to the engine since its in the bottom of the boat. But even me who is not that technical got it in and out over 8 hours. Saved me $1500. The part was about $160.
P0523 . Got a oil pressure warning and service light went off (not check engine). Turns out that there is a tiny little peg on the oil pressure sensor that broke off and $17 later on amazon I got a new one, swapped it and now its fine.
Fuel gauge always showed full tank. I even run out of gas on the inter coastal and had to be towed. Its was a fairly easy fix. I took off the middle seat, a few screws to the lid and you access the fuel tank. I unscrewed the lid, open it up and the float had been stuck vertical. Again when I finally got to it a 20 min job. Just one touch and it fell down and showing correct fuel level.
For some reason the previous owner manage to break all switches on the panel. Dont ask me how. But all of them was pushed in and sat under the console. I went online, found all of them for $10/each. Took a couple of hours to switch them out but now they all work and I got a good looking panel. The shop wanted $500 to switch them out, got it done for $60.
Just as I got the boat the reverse cable broke inside. The shop quoted me $700 for material and 4 hours work. Me, as an armature, changed it out in 2 hours and bought the part at RIVA for $98.
I had issues with the lights on the boat. The pole lights keep getting corroded and I switched twice the pole light base. Finally I installed a red/green light with white cover (to match boat) that sits there permanently and a wire up to a white light on my Bimini top (that I installed). Never had an issue again and you all know what a pain in the rear end it is to put those on unless you turn the engine off..
What I got left is a fairly big issue. I have a P0133 o2 sensor that eventually turned in to a P014c . Apparently the catalytic converter has a leak and going to try to see if its just the seals or a recall. Since warranty is out it will be expensive unless recall. Think its just the seals that cost $30 and then a days job on the boat. Since its an o2 sensor I get at some fluctuating RPM. But hopefully it will do the trick. I have put 50 hours on the boat since I bought it and after everything was fixed it starts every time. I installed a stereo, extra battery and enjoy it every weekend.
As I said, got it on a deal and can probably get $3-$5K more now than I paid for it. Took a lot of patience, reading and work to get to the point. Waxing, cleaning and flushing. But its a fun toy.
Hope this helps someone with similar problems.
I bought a 2015 scarab 165 G used. Lot of fun but got it for a good price, but also came with a lot of issues. I been taking care of them one after one. So here is a few and some easy some harder.
P0122 . TAS. I had a lot of issues with this in the beginning. Could not for my life figure out what was wrong. Even had a mechanic look at it without any success. Turns out that if you follow the electric harness from the boat to the back, right next to the battery there is a bundle that simply had one cable that got disconnected. A lot of fail search turned in to a 2 min fix.
The engine got overheated. There is a water pump in the bottom that has a valve that is suppose to open at 165f but to then circulate to the plate under the boat. Did not really happen. Instead it got over heated. I bought a new pump. That was a hard job haning upside down in to the engine since its in the bottom of the boat. But even me who is not that technical got it in and out over 8 hours. Saved me $1500. The part was about $160.
P0523 . Got a oil pressure warning and service light went off (not check engine). Turns out that there is a tiny little peg on the oil pressure sensor that broke off and $17 later on amazon I got a new one, swapped it and now its fine.
Fuel gauge always showed full tank. I even run out of gas on the inter coastal and had to be towed. Its was a fairly easy fix. I took off the middle seat, a few screws to the lid and you access the fuel tank. I unscrewed the lid, open it up and the float had been stuck vertical. Again when I finally got to it a 20 min job. Just one touch and it fell down and showing correct fuel level.
For some reason the previous owner manage to break all switches on the panel. Dont ask me how. But all of them was pushed in and sat under the console. I went online, found all of them for $10/each. Took a couple of hours to switch them out but now they all work and I got a good looking panel. The shop wanted $500 to switch them out, got it done for $60.
Just as I got the boat the reverse cable broke inside. The shop quoted me $700 for material and 4 hours work. Me, as an armature, changed it out in 2 hours and bought the part at RIVA for $98.
I had issues with the lights on the boat. The pole lights keep getting corroded and I switched twice the pole light base. Finally I installed a red/green light with white cover (to match boat) that sits there permanently and a wire up to a white light on my Bimini top (that I installed). Never had an issue again and you all know what a pain in the rear end it is to put those on unless you turn the engine off..
What I got left is a fairly big issue. I have a P0133 o2 sensor that eventually turned in to a P014c . Apparently the catalytic converter has a leak and going to try to see if its just the seals or a recall. Since warranty is out it will be expensive unless recall. Think its just the seals that cost $30 and then a days job on the boat. Since its an o2 sensor I get at some fluctuating RPM. But hopefully it will do the trick. I have put 50 hours on the boat since I bought it and after everything was fixed it starts every time. I installed a stereo, extra battery and enjoy it every weekend.
As I said, got it on a deal and can probably get $3-$5K more now than I paid for it. Took a lot of patience, reading and work to get to the point. Waxing, cleaning and flushing. But its a fun toy.
Hope this helps someone with similar problems.
Last edited:
Your English is fine!
