So, I broke a steering cable...

[Julian]

Please take photos and post tips on both your replacement experiences! I'll probably be next up!

 

[Unreal Yammi]

I have considerable "play"in the wheel in addition to the catch noted earlier and suspect the steering box. I can watch the play in the box before the cables move. After replacing the cables I will know with certainty and may have to replace the box as well. The cables are taking so long because one must travel from Yamaha's warehouse in Ga. to Oregon to the vendor (YSPlaza) then back to me..no drop shipment allowed. The other is going from a warehouse in Calif. to Oregon then to me.

**Edit** After replacing both steering cables I have no "play" in the wheel and the steering is fantastic!

 

[zelone]

Ok gang, I started to disassemble the cable end where it should attach to the nozzle. I found that a 7/8" crows foot socket, typically used for Automotive oxygen sensors, works good to remove the nut on the outside. I removed the cleanout tray and located the cable on the inside. I scraped away the silicone, but nothing is budging. I see there is 2 large nuts on the new cable, so I suspected that there is a nut on the inside of the cable as well, but it must be buried in the fiberglass. I ran out of light and the mosquitos were having their way with me, so will try again tomorrow. If anyone has done this and can offer any tips for breaking the cable loose on the inside of the hull, I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[zelone]

Does the cable get removed from the stern or pushed through the hull and removed from the helm? When looking behind the helm, are the cables in the correct position for left and right? I imagine you don't really know until you disconnect and pull on one.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

If memory serves me correctly, the left and right cables are mounted in proper orientation behind the dash. Easy to tell after unhooking one cable.

Cable should be pulled into the bilge area after removing it from the pump on the exterior. Isn't there a plastic nut to undo on the exterior?

 

[zelone]

Thanks Murf. I believe you are thinking of the reverse cable. The steering cable comes through the plate that the pump is mounted to against the hull and has metal nuts and washers, seemingly on both sides. It is also heavily coated in silicone. I removed the nut and washer on the outside, removed the silicone on the inside but cannot get any type of tool on the nut on the inside. It is sunk into the fiberglass a bit. I removed all the silicone and will try and find a tool at Lowe's that might help. I am still not sure if it has to be pushed into the hull, or removed from the rear completely.

 

[zelone]

I replaced the steering cable tonight. Its 80% complete. Just have to reinstall the cleanout tray and maybe make minor adjustments. The OEM cable has a nut, but no washer on the inside of the hull, it is recessed into the fiberglass, possibly adhered with 5200. I had to use a drift and hammer to push it into the hull. I had previously installed a subwoofer, LED light rings and ran power/ground for a switch panel, so I have a lot of wires already running through that small wire tunnel from the helm to the fuel tank area, and I had a hard time removing the old cable. I ended up using bolt cutters and just cutting it out. I also had a hard time getting the new cable through that same area but a fish tape got it done. The rest of the install went smoothly. If anyone has any questions, it would be good to ask now, while its still fresh in my head lol.

 

[Unreal Yammi]

@zelone ty for the updates. I have not received my cables yet to start the project.

Referring to the "nut" on the inside..did you have to loosen it and remove the nut from the cable or just dig it out of the 5200 and bring it outside the hull with the cable then reinstall the inside nut before putting your new cable back in? (I re-read your post and it looks like you used the drift hammer on the outside of the hull to "knock the nut loose from the "5200"..?)

Also did you reapply a sealant at the exit point inside and outside the hull? If so what sealant?

Did you have to count the turns of the nuts on either end of the cable so to center your steering? If not what must be done to realign the nozzles and center the steering wheel?

Did you fish the new cable from the helm to the back or from the outside/back through to the helm?

Many thanks, Lee

 

[zelone]

@zelone ty for the updates. I have not received my cables yet to start the project.

Referring to the "nut" on the inside..did you have to loosen it and remove the nut from the cable or just dig it out of the 5200 and bring it outside the hull with the cable then reinstall the inside nut before putting your new cable back in? (I re-read your post and it looks like you used the drift hammer on the outside of the hull to "knock the nut loose from the "5200"..?)

Also did you reapply a sealant at the exit point inside and outside the hull? If so what sealant?

Did you have to count the turns of the nuts on either end of the cable so to center your steering? If not what must be done to realign the nozzles and center the steering wheel?

Did you fish the new cable from the helm to the back or from the outside/back through to the helm?

Many thanks, Lee

Hey Lee, sorry or the delay. I got a full plate.
I did dig out all the old sealant around the inside nut, but that nut stays on the cable and on the inside of the hull. You have to leave the nut on, and installthe rear portion of the cable through the hole at the transom, and send the rest of the cable though the bulkhead, through the engine compartment, though the next bulkhead, under the floor section, then into the helm area.
I applied new 5200 to the inside of the hull where that nut sits, and I applied silicone to the outside area, just as the Yamaha factory had applied. I made some crude marks on a straw for the length of the port side cable, where the threads enter the part that connects to the nozzle. I figured I'd have to make an adjustment, but so far, so good.
I have never done one of these before, and I couldn't find any detailed instructions or great tips for it, so I did it all my way. There may be easier, faster ways, but I got it done and could do it again if I had to. Hardest part was getting the cable to go through the wire tunnel from the floor to the helm, and that was because I had just run a bunch of wires through there for my lights and subwoofer. I could not remove the old cable, so I cut it with bolt cutters. Easier than possibly gouging the new wiring I just installed. Hope this helps someone.

 

[Unreal Yammi]

@zelone Thank you for sharing your installation experience and for your reply. I am going to start the process of replacing 4 cables this weekend, the two reverse and 2 steering cables, mine came in this week. I certainly will draw from your post and from @Julian 's post for reverse cables.

I wonder aloud to you anyone with an opinion if I can use this sealant/adhesive,LifeSeal, for the inside nut area and the 3m Marine Grade Silicone sealant for the outside hull area. I saw 5200 at the dealer but have heard it is a nightmare and could be literally impossible to remove if so needed.

 

[zelone]

I think any quality sealant will work just fine on the inside. Its not under a tremendous amount of pressure, and the silicone on the outside is what is doing the heavy lifting. I think the 5200 is mainly to seal the edges of the fiberglass, where the hole was drilled for the cable to pass through. I have removed 5200 here and there, and didn't find it all the difficult. I had to dig a bunch out to get this cable loose and it wasn't hard at all.

 

[Unreal Yammi]

Ty @zelone . I am going to replace these tomorrow..

 

[Unreal Yammi]

First I wish to thank @zelone for his pioneering the process and giving me the confidence to start and finish this repair!! Secondly I hope this helps you @Julian and any others who confront this issue.

I did replace both steering cables on June 28 and finished the project July 4th. I did use only the LifeSeal silicone adhesive on the inside and outside. The process is very straightforward and realitively easy with reasonable mechanical skill.

I do think I received the same length cable for both cables even though the Port cable is labeled "Port" as well as part numbered on the box from Yamaha, the Starboard is not labeled except for the part number. (I think both were the longer of the two fortunately.).

1) At the helm, I removed the bolt holding the pair of cables to the steering box.That way the cables stay together and can be then separated and marked "P" and "S" before removing them from their bracket. This can then be done easily outside the console.

Steering

• Unreal Yammi
• Jul 7, 2015
• 2

Connection at steering box

2) I then removed the bolt and nut holding the cables from the bracket attached to the steering column.

Steering

• Unreal Yammi
• Jul 7, 2015

Connection at column support.

3) I marked the cables as mentioned in 1 and then removed them from both brackets. When removing the topmost bracket NOTE and MARK the number of turns to remove each cable's nut and put them back the same number to keep the steering adjustment the same.
Pic below is of cables at upper bracket..note number of threads/count threads or turns.

Steering

• Unreal Yammi
• Jul 7, 2015

Bracket and cable ends connecting to steering box.

Pic below is of second/lower bracket, also note threads..

Steering

• Unreal Yammi
• Jul 7, 2015

Bracket connecting to support at helm.

4) At the aft I removed the screws holding the cleanout tray and set it aside to the right. I did not remove switches nor the tray drain, just setting the whole tray aside. That removed the possibility of getting the kill switches out of adjustment. At this point I removed two coolant hoses(they are held using a clamp) that are directly above the cable hull exit point. This allows easy access to the cable at the hull exit. (forgot to takes hose pics).

5) Then I unbolted one cable at the u connector to the jet. Please be aware of two small plastic inserts where the bolt goes thru the connector. They could be easily overlooked and lost.

Steering

• Unreal Yammi
• Jul 7, 2015

Insert located at U connector and jet.

6) Then remove the U connector and BE SURE to count the number of turns you screw it off so it can then be put back the same number to keep it in adjustment. I MARKED the number on the U connector along with left and right markings. (This pic is out of order but is intended to illustrate the markings for the number of turns.)

Steering

• Unreal Yammi
• Jul 7, 2015

7) Then using an O2 automotive socket (22mm, or 7/8 crows foot socket) I rented from Auto Zone I removed the nut and washer on the outside the hull.

Socket

• Unreal Yammi
• Jul 7, 2015

O2 socket used for steering cable replacement.

Continued in the next post.

 

[Unreal Yammi]

Continued

8) There is another nut(no washer ,so I did not put one back) inside the hull on the cable that is hidden inside some adhesive sealant. Then I had my helper use a small hammer and tap from the outside on the cable end while I tugged on the cable inside the clean out area. This dislodged the nut from the adhesive sealant that holds the nut and cable inside the hull. ( No pic at this time.)

9) I then removed all plastic ties that hold the cable(s) in place from back to front.

10) At this point the cable is free and can be removed. At the helm, I used a vinyl hose that fits over the cable end and using electric tape I attached the new cable to the old cable with the plastic hose.
(A pic of the old cable with the vinyl hose still attached.)

Steering

• Unreal Yammi
• Jul 7, 2015

Vinyl hose used to connect old and new cable.

Then my helper pulled from the aft whilst I pushed and guided the connected cable thru the hull and out the back of the hull. When the new cable appeared in the clean out area I disconnected the two and put the large nut back on the cable(without a washer since it must fit into a recess at the hull exit that is just the size of the nut). I then pushed it thru the hull exit and installed the LifeSeal adhesive sealant on the inside and lightly on the outside before installing the outside large nut and washer. Noteworthy, the cable exits thru a metal plate that supports the jet.(pic shows a light coat of LifeSeal protruding from under the washer and nut). I coated it heavily inside the hull with LifeSeal.

Steering

• Unreal Yammi
• Jul 7, 2015

11) I installed the second cable using the exact same method up to the point reached in item 10, stopping short of connecting the U connector at the rear.

12) Then I made the connections in reverse order at the helm under the console for both cables (remembering to put the connectors back the same number of turns I removed them).

13) I then connected the U connector for each cable at the jet (remembering to put the connectors back the same number of turns I removed them).

14) Then reconnect the 4 coolant hoses above the cable hull exit and in doing so check the quality of the application of the sealant again. Also confirm all clamps and hoses are of seaworthy quality while in the clean out area. I found a rusted out clamp lying in the bottom that clamped the exhaust hose down!!! There is a "near miss (sinking)" posted on this forum about such!!

15) Reinstall the clean out tray and enjoy your craftsmanship and your brand new boat feel in the steering!!

 

[zelone]

Great writeup! You nailed it!
One thing I have to add...put new Loctite on the bolt that holds the rectangular block with the cables in it, to the steering bracket, in the helm. I was on my way home from a sandbar party on 7/5, when I lost all steering. Thinking I snapped both cables, I had a friend tow me out of the channel and tossed an anchor, to wait for the towboat. I took a quick look behind the helm and it appeared that I sheared the bolt had off that bolt. With a flashlight and looking a little closer, I found the bolt missing. It had backed itself out completely, and luckily was laying there in the helm. The helm design is great for catching things you drop. Anyway, I was able to finagle it back together with the Yamaha pliers and get us back to port, without waiting on the towboat.

 

[Unreal Yammi]

Great idea with the Loctite! I will do that probably with both the bolt and the other bolt/nut that connects the cables to the steering box under the helm. I have been out twice since replacing both steering and both reverse gate cables and it drives like a new boat! I am completely happy this repair is so functional and relatively easy to complete. Someone with even just basic mechanical skill will find it straightforward.

 

[4x15mph]

@Unreal Yammi , I am working on replacing a steering cable and I am at your step #8:

8) There is another nut(no washer ,so I did not put one back) inside the hull on the cable that is hidden inside some adhesive sealant. Then I had my helper use a small hammer and tap from the outside on the cable end while I tugged on the cable inside the clean out area. This dislodged the nut from the adhesive sealant that holds the nut and cable inside the hull. ( No pic at this time.)

I removed the outside nut/washer on the cable but I have the same problem as you with not being able to pull the cable from inside the hull. Is it really just stuck due to the adhesive and are you saying that you had to eventually get that inside nut off of the cable/threads to be reused for the new cable?

Your write up is excellent.

 

[Unreal Yammi]

4x 15mph. Ty for the comment. I did not have to use the nut over. My new cables came with them.

 

[4x15mph]

Thanks again @Unreal Yammi . I used a metal plumbing wrench to hit the cable from the outside which is what worked for me. The important note for people that read this thread is that the steering cable is not threaded into the hull. Once you take the nut off on the outside of the hull, the only thing that is holding the cable from being able to be pulled from the inside of the hull will be caulk/sealant and some brute force. I cleaned out the caulk on the inside, used plenty of PB blaster, and whacked it from the outside.

 

[DUSTOFF]

I found these cables when searching for factory replacements:
http://www.amazon.com/SeaStar-Solut...p/B004LF59XS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

The price obviously doesn't seem right, considering people have paid $100+ for these cables.

Anyone think it is worth a shot to buy and try one of these?