SOLVED: anyone remove their intake duct (aka: ride plate)?

[1BadTundra]

went at removing the huge amount of silicone. pretty tedious due to the amount of surface area, but here's what worked for me.

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the purple thing is a ScotchBrite Stay Clean Scrubber. it didn't gunk-up on me and doesn't scratch the gelcoat like regular scotchbrite would. i tried using acetone - i'm not saying it doesn't work on silicone, but i can definitely tell the 3M Cleaner works better. i later found a small plastic plaster spreader is very useful once the 3M Cleaner is applied. also get some Bar Keepers Friend.

i used the metal paint scraper to get the thicker layers off. then i went back over everything with the razor blade/glass-scraper. there was still a very thin film left. using the soft side of the Scrubber, i applied 3M Cleaner over it. this loosened the silicone just enough to allow the razor to really get under it. the plaster spreader is almost as good as the razor for this. the plaster spreader was very useful on the corners, though - you can get very aggressive with it without marking up the gelcoat. the screwdriver works in the tighter spots. then i used the coarser side of the Scrubber to get most of the gummy remnants off.

there will still be a a very fine film that the razor cannot get up, but i found using Bar Keepers Friend on a paper towel with some elbow grease actually gets it to bare gelcoat! i love that stuff.

Let me resurrect this dead horse... You said those bolts holding the plates all penetrate the hull? I didn't know this, I've removed my grates, and reinstalled, but didn't use any sealant on the hardware, should these be sealed as well? If so, what did you use, or what is recommended?

 

[HawaiiBreeze]

Let me resurrect this dead horse... You said those bolts holding the plates all penetrate the hull? I didn't know this, I've removed my grates, and reinstalled, but didn't use any sealant on the hardware, should these be sealed as well? If so, what did you use, or what is recommended?

Over the years I've found that sealing the hardware threads with something is better than putting them back dry and clean. Years ago I started greasing the threads, torquing to spec and dabbing on silicone over the cavity to keep the bolt covered. This aided my ability to get pumps and intake grates off quickly. Cut out the silicone plug and remove the bolts easily since they were greased and there was no salt buildup acting like red loctite. Yamaha's use of Allen head bolts is not my favorite as older-worn Allen Sockets will round out the bolt and then trouble really begins. Additionally, hard to get out bolts will stress the threaded insert in the hull if you end up leaning on them. Since transitioning to Yamaha Boats I'm doing the same. I'm in 100% salt and drop my grate and plate at least once per year for maintenance and inspections of the pump system.

 

[1BadTundra]

Good to know, thanks. I tried everything to get my plates off. I wanted them powdercoated. I cannot get them to budge, I didn't want to damage the fiberglass so I just put the bolts back in and licked my wounds.

 

[HawaiiBreeze]

I see. If you have ALL the bolts removed fully the ride plate should fall right off. If not someone has either silicone'd the edges or maybe you got a salt build up acting like a glue. If still interested in getting them off look closely at the joint running around the ride plates to see if there is indeed some sealant. If there is and you're still willing, get a knife (could be a butter knife) and run it along the joint in the sealant a few times then pry the ride plate downward. Should peel away with a little bit of leverage. One word of caution, they are quite heavy especially if you have the articulating keel. Good Luck.