Some subs not speed...

[Speedling]

So i am going to do a very basic write up of my subs as i go along here. But more importantly it doesn't make me go faster.
To tell you how it is at my house, i started taking measurement in the boat and my daughter climbs in and this is the conversation:
Daddy, you workin on the boat?
Yup.
You makin it faster?
Nope?
Then why you workin on the boat?
(Huge grin) Maybe we'll make it lighter so it goes faster ok?
Ok!

 

[Speedling]

The current setup is pretty old and back from my car setup when i had a 94 Mustang GT stick shift. One of the last of the 302 mustangs it was awesome! Just ran perfect. Ended up getting t boned at a stop light (seriously, not even speeding?) After buttoning up the exhaust. On a p60-1 turbo build. Totalled.
Anyways... (sniff) the pioneer subs have lasted through literal hell because they originally had a 1200 watt pyramid amp on them.
Now i am feeding them a 500x1 class D monoblock amp that tested at 645 watt rms. To say i will need to keep this thing turned down is an understatement.
The original box has had several things screwed to it over the years so its got holes through the carpet etc. Being in the boat it has gotten wet a bit here and there and has some expansion (mdf construction ) and some mold.
Time for an upgrade!

 

[swatski]

@Speedling Do you know what brand you're getting? Are you building a new enclosure(s) or going with IB type sub(s)? location? cutting new holes?
I am so curious.

 

[Speedling]

Sticking with the same subs since they keep going! Now, if i get permissions from the wife i may intentionally blow them up at the end of the season, but don't fix what ain't broke!

The box had to be changed. That big double box was not able to slide to the back so between that and two monster battery boxes the entire area under the port side seats was unusable.

I am constructing two individual boxes. One for each side. They will be approximately 1 foot squared (ok exactly) and be able to fit snugly way in the back space. I have previously put an extra 3" foam piece back there for extra sound proofing but i guess the sub boxes will be making a new sound, lol!

Anyways, cut the wood already. 3/4" exterior glue 5 layer ply with a beautiful face to it. Almost $30 a sheet but will last much much longer than most other stuff in the store. This is NOT treated lumber. I will be staining the boxes with stain my wife had left over from pintrest projects.

Tl;dr pictures!
Clayton doing the precise measurements. Note the safety glasses. He wore glasses and earmuffs while cutting as well.

 

[Speedling]

I had also located some actual marine plywood but it was $50 a sheet!

Picture of wood cut:

Don't mind the blow dryer. My wife brought it out saying it was sparking. I told her to go buy a new one. Maybe my project got more expensive....

 

[swatski]

The way you do things, I'm fairly certain the new boxes will outlast the boat!

Great project, I'm kind of inspired by what you are doing, not sure which way I would go with the little 190. The fun part here - you are pretty much ascertained good results, unlike anything to do with speed or cavitation.

 

[Speedling]

Lunch break!

Thats "our" lake back there! Sandbar grill on the lake front. Not a soul on the water! That's gonna change quick for sure!
This lake is too busy on the weekends anymore.

 

[Speedling]

I take all my pieces and sand the ends all together. This makes for even edges all the way around. This would be best with a belt sander but i used an orbital since i don't own a belt sander.

After that i lined up the first pieces of the box. I pre drill the holes for the screws and then add a liberal amount of glue to the ends before i screw them together.

I used tightbond 3 which claims weather proof. We will see i guess!

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Are you covering the wood in epoxy or bed liner spray?

 

[veedubtek]

Wait. You had an excuse to buy a new tool and you didn't? (belt sander).

 

[Speedling]

Are you covering the wood in epoxy or bed liner spray?

Heavy stain/sealer and a clear coat. If my last box was mdf and hardly got anything i am not so worried about it like i would be if it were a boat hull or something.
And i would use clear epoxy and a layer of fiberglass (which ends up clear when wet with epoxy) just like the old boat hulls.

 

[Speedling]

Wait. You had an excuse to buy a new tool and you didn't? (belt sander).

Waiting on the new garage for sure. I want a table saw, band saw and drill press as well!

 

[Speedling]

I put glue on every seam.
I spaced the drill bit in the drill so i could use it to space out the screws where they won't hit each other. Plus it gives precise even measuring with no marks on the wood.

Once most of sides were put together i smeared a little extra glue in the corner joints to ensure air tightness.

 

[Speedling]

Next is the front (or back i guess) lid.
I put the glue down pretty heavy here because it is much more difficult to glue the seams from through the subwoofer hole later. When i first line up the wood and stick it down not much glue comes out. Once i drill the pilot holes and put screws in lots squeeze out making me assured that it is sealed. Just use a damp rag and wipe this up with no problems. If you leave it you will want to sand it off later.
Once you have a box you can lightly sand any markings your son may have drawn all over your wood as well.
I used galvanized deck screws but stainless would have been a better choice for sure. I had them laying around and the screws used in the previous box were simply coated and were hardly rusting so i am not too terribly worried. Perhaps in a salt water environment it would be different.

 

[Speedling]

So now it's a sealed box and i need a hole.
First, find center of the face you want the hole.
Second, find a long screw with a long smooth neck on it. I had some 4 inch deck screws with a full inch of smooth neck on it.
Find a long scrap, say 8 inches or so but only a couple inches thick.
Find the proper drill bit for the screw so that it screws into the center hole but the smooth shaft will spin freely.
Now drill into the center mark.
Drill the same bit size into one end of the skinny board.
Screw your long screw through that hole and make sure it spins freely.
Now, from the center of the screw find the radius of yoir circle. If you don't remember your 4th grade math, look at your subwoofer, measure the distance across the part that goes inside the box, and cut in half. So, for my 10" sub the inside part was 9 1/4". I made my radius a smidge past 4 1/2" but less than 4 5/8". I can sand it larger if needed.
Once that is marked, find the diameter of your pencil, match it to a drill bit and drill the hole where your radius is marked. With my 3/4" plywood it held the pencil pretty straight but you can double it up to be extra sure it doesn't wobble.
Now attach that screw to the sub box in the pre drilled hole.
Put the pencil in and spin it round!
Save this for the next sub box.
Next drill a hole large enough to get a jig saw blade in and then use the jog saw to cut the circle out.
Repeat the process for the speaker terminal is needed.
Next a before and after with a speaker test fit:

And finally i stain it twice with a stain/sealer and then clear coat it lightly. I may clear it again to give it a little bit of a sheen, vut it looks pretty nice! Kind of an industrial look with the silver of the screws popping through.

 

[GTBRMC]

Once you have a box you can lightly sand any markings your son may have drawn all over your wood as well.

HahahahaHAHA! Love the way you non-chalantly drop that in.

 

[4x15mph]

Its looking great @Speedling .

 

[Speedling]

Quick test fitting. I am going to have my storage back!

 

[Speedling]

Both boxes done. On to the amps!

 

[Speedling]

FYI, new boxes with subs in are 2.5 lbs lighter than old box WITHOUT subs.
Some speed after all!