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Some thoughts after bringing my boat in for its first service....

To check the bearings use an inexpensive non contact thermometer and always take readings of the hubs after you tow the boat this will give you a heads up if a bearing or brake caliper is acting up and you can use that to check the water temperature as well.
 
Thank you SCP1, that is exactly the issue. The one inch gap. There is nothing adjustable on the trailer as far as i can see and i have now heard from others with the same issue. I am going to stuff some memory foam between the roller and bow for the trip anyway.
 
Memory foam isn't going to stop ~2500 lbs from slamming into your roller knocking a hole in your bow or keeping your boat from moving around lol.

Just tighten the thing down and be done with it. What's the issue? It sounds like you didn't load your boat far enough forward the last time you used it. Take it back to the lake, remove transom straps, back it down to the ramp so it's sitting in the water a little and crank the rest of the bow strap in so the bow eye rests where it's supposed to. Or do what I mentioned earlier loosen the transom straps, go about 10 mph in your truck and stab the brakes to cause the boat to slide forward on the trailer bunks and then tighten the bow strap and transom straps down and you're done.

Doing a bandaid or stuffing a pillow or memory foam between the bow roller and boat is just asking for trouble. Memory foam isn't going to keep your boat from bouncing around. It needs to be secure. You're boat is simply sitting too far back and needs to be moved forward. Whatever gap you have up front means that much is hanging off the bunks at the rear. Correctly positioned your transom should be sitting just beyond with the end of the bunks. You don't have an issue other than you didn't land your boat correctly. Don't fret, not the end of the world but you need to understand the importance of securing your boat. My trailer came with the bunks set one hole from the widest position. If I moved the bunks to the last hole it would make the boat sit in the chine/lifting strake and I would not want that kind of pressure being applied to that running surface possibly causing damage from hitting a pot hole or just wear and tear not to mention it would likely cause your boat to sit higher anyways because of the lifting strake. Check to make sure your holes and bunk brackets are like mine at least (see below).

What mine looks like at the rear of the bunks with the bow eye up against the roller as it should be....

image.jpeg
 
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loosen the transom straps, go about 10 mph in your truck and stab the brakes to cause the boat to slide forward on the trailer bunks and then tighten the bow strap and transom straps down and you're done.
@Peter simon The 5-10mph hard stop should be the easiest way to remedy this situation (but no need to loosen the transom straps)

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My 2018 SX 195 hits the bow hook about 1 inch above the roller too. When the boat is pulled tight to the bow roller it pulls the boat down to the roller. This is not correct. The boat bow should be pulled straight into the bow roller. The bow hook should be under the bow roller. Shorelandr makes a 19 inch winch post that I am going to try to get the bow roller a little higher above the bow hook and a straight pull on the boat into the roller.
 

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Thank you. The last 2 posts are exactly the issue. So what are the suggestions since i am leaving in 2 days? I think i will have to keep it tight for now and bring it back to the dealer when i get back. If Yamaha didnt adjust the trailer properly or they ordered a winch post that is too short they should be responsible for correcting it.
 
Thank you. The last 2 posts are exactly the issue. So what are the suggestions since i am leaving in 2 days? I think i will have to keep it tight for now and bring it back to the dealer when i get back. If Yamaha didnt adjust the trailer properly or they ordered a winch post that is too short they should be responsible for correcting it.
Did you or did you not try the hard stop yet?
I would almost guarantee it will cure your issue. It may also be a good “stress test” before hitting the road for your road trip. The combo should easily withstand abrupt breaking when rolling at 5-10mph. If not, you probably do not want to be pulling this rig on a highway...

 
Totally agree. Just bump the brakes and the boat will move forward. The pic above just looks like the winch wasn't cranked all the way before the bow eye stopped against the roller. I still fail to see an issue.

Guys, don't be afraid to winch the boat up at the ramp. Do not stop until the bow eye is against the roller. Put some muscle in it lol. When you pull the boat out of the water the stern will settle on the bunks. Put on the transom straps and then drive to a clearing and stab the brakes. Retighten all straps and the boat is set for its journey. I tow my boat everywhere and on long distances and she never moves doing the method I just described.
 
Totally agree. Just bump the brakes and the boat will move forward. The pic above just looks like the winch wasn't cranked all the way before the bow eye stopped against the roller. I still fail to see an issue.

Guys, don't be afraid to winch the boat up at the ramp. Do not stop until the bow eye is against the roller. Put some muscle in it lol. When you pull the boat out of the water the stern will settle on the bunks. Put on the transom straps and then drive to a clearing and stab the brakes. Retighten all straps and the boat is set for its journey. I tow my boat everywhere and on long distances and she never moves doing the method I just described.
That is all true, however you have to be a little bit mindful of the ramp grade/angle
(as the boat and trailer come out of the water on a ramp)
Some ramps can be very steep, or very short Depending on water conditions, in some situations it may be may be better to leave a little bit of slack on the winch, and then deal with that on dry land, doing a bump stop, orwhatever. Just some food for thought.

 
Spray silicone on the bunks too next time you retrieve the boat. Makes the process Nice and smooth.
 
That is all true, however you have to be a little bit mindful of the ramp grade/angle
(as the boat and trailer come out of the water on a ramp)
Some ramps can be very steep, or very short Depending on water conditions, in some situations it may be may be better to leave a little bit of slack on the winch, and then deal with that on dry land, doing a bump stop, orwhatever. Just some food for thought.


Yup it all depends on the ramp how you go about retrieving the boat and trailer safely. Most of the ramps I use are moderately steep but nothing too crazy. This helps get the boat off and on the trailer without having to go too deep. My main ramp has rumble strips made into the concrete and can cause a good bit of bounce as you go up or down it. A loose bow would certainly flop around unless you went at a snails pace to safely on level ground above the ramp to keep the boat and trailer from bouncing. Definitely use your judgement and decide how you want to get the boat out. One thing that greatly takes a piece of the stress out of retrieving is getting some trailer guides. That way you can focus less on the boat drifting off center and more about making sure the front gets as close to the bow eye as possible without having to winch before you get off the boat. Definitely recommend for new and even seasoned boaters especially if you boat on rivers with current or wind IMO.
 
Yes that is the way it should be. My bow hook hits the bow roller dead on and can not be pulled forward any more. The bow roller will only come in contact with the bow of the boat when the winch pulls it down so the bow hook is under the bow roller. This pulls the boat down about an inch or two from its level/neutral position.
 
I have done some more research on this and found that the new 2019 195's have 14 inch winch post that are turned around 180 degrees from the 2018's. So Yamaha/Shorelandr has found the answer to this bow and winch problem. I did order a 14 inch winch post last year (TA0992-00) to replace the 9 inch one and put it on today. It is not exactly like the ones on the 2019's. I had to drill a 1/2 hole in the new winch post to get the right height to get the bow roller above the bow hook. Also it will put the trailer jack on the opposite side of the trailer tongue. No problem.
It took care of the problem of pulling the boat down onto the bow roller and pulls the boat straight, toward the roller and winch, not down.
 

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Wow, that looks like something Shorelander should be paying to fix!
 
The 2019 seems to be fine on mine for that part, with my stoltz, hits right on the money when winched down. Sorry you guys are having issues. I’m struggling with bunk placement on the 19 though... not sure it’s correct from factory setup.

Here’s mine loose, when I tighten the strap the bow eye hits and all of the rollers portions sit on the boat
 

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One issue I have experienced towing my boat (one time when I brought it home) was the two aft side seats opened. The previous owner cautioned me about this stating he had lost several life jackets and a small cooler to the flow-through wind lifting the seats. Cover will prevent this, of course, but food for thought if you decide to tow ever w/out the cover. Second the suggestion to cover the windshield bow...great idea!
 
On the 19’s it must be the way it sits on the trailer. Literally if you loosen the front strap the bow raises an inch or so. If I didn’t see it for myself I would not believe it either.
My 2019 no longer does this after I adjusted my bunks.
 
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