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Spark plug stuck in AR 195. Can anyone make me smarter on this

Keys_Coastie

Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
10
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
AR195
Boat Length
19
I was given an estimate of $2300

I damn-near passed out

I’m in Key West, does anyone know of anyone besides the Yamaha dealer in Key Largo that would maybe charge less for this? Thank you
 
Is it stuck or broken off? if it is stuck that appears to be a more common problem lately. I always use never seize on my plugs before they ever hit the water and that starts a lot of bickering but regardless it is what I do I run in salt water only and have 850+ hours on my engine never had a plug stick but I do not use a torque wrench to install them either. I tighten the new plug until I feel it resist turning and then add 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and also place dielectric grease on the coil boots.
If it is stuck put penetrating oil in the plug recess and work the plug carefully down and up /like using a tap to thread a hole, slowly work the threads forward and backward, never force it.
 
Its stuck. At the 100 hour service, the tech came, and one is stuck. They now have my boat at the dealership, and are telling me $2300 to take the stuck plug out
 
are you experiencing any issues with boat,

if it was just routine maintenance I might be tempted to just leave it in or at least put it off until I can get a better tech to deal with it, they are probably expecting it to break off upon further attempts and have to pull the head,

many have reported multiple day soaking with penetrating oil to help loosen it, also jet ski shop should be able to help you at a possibly better rate,
 
are you experiencing any issues with boat,

if it was just routine maintenance I might be tempted to just leave it in or at least put it off until I can get a better tech to deal with it, they are probably expecting it to break off upon further attempts and have to pull the head,

many have reported multiple day soaking with penetrating oil to help loosen it, also jet ski shop should be able to help you at a possibly better rate,
Thanks!!! That’s a good point!! Appreciate that! They did say they had it soaking. And yes, it was routine maintenance
 
Then try that and try removing the plug like I said but do it after you run the engine and get it to operating temp that may help
 
Is this the first time the plugs have been changed? Got to wonder if this one was cross threaded ....Who worked on it before? Same dealer wanting $2300 to remove it?
 
Best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. I bet if you soak it in that for a few days itll come out.

Unless it's cross threaded and then it's gonna just be stuck and need more work. I've drilled a few plugs out and replaced the threads with Helicoils on 5.4L Ford cylinder heads with the engine still together. It's not a fun process, but can be done.

Good luck!
 
That is very interesting about the torque removal ratings of ATF/Acetone.
 
Best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. I bet if you soak it in that for a few days itll come out.

Unless it's cross threaded and then it's gonna just be stuck and need more work. I've drilled a few plugs out and replaced the threads with Helicoils on 5.4L Ford cylinder heads with the engine still together. It's not a fun process, but can be done.

Good luck!

Oh geez...that’s for reminding me about the Ford 5.4 plugs!

In this case though, I don’t think it’s carbon preventing the plug from coming out. This plug was either cross threaded- which seems unlikely- or the threads are corroded.

I am sure that mixture would help...PB Blast works good also..
 
IR 2235ti MAX
 
I’d:

1. wait til the end of boating season
2. heat up the engine
3. Soak the plug overnight with penetrating oil
4. Warm up the engine again
5. Attempt back out the plug (even getting it to back out a tiny bit will help more oil get down where it’s needed)
6. Repeat the soaking process
7. Attempt to remove it again. Working it in and out.

At the very least, id break it off in there myself trying to remove it before I’d pay them that kind of money to tear the engine down. Good luck with it hope it works out well for you.
 
Honestly I seriously doubt it is cross threaded if so it would come out .
On these heads with all the valves and being aluminum I also seriously doubt a heli coil would do any good, it may even do more harm.
I have looked at a lot of these plugs when I remove them and I notice a buildup at the very end of the plug, I suspect that the plugs protrude through the head just a slight amount .
" Maybe someone with a head off the engine could look closely and see if I am correct," The buildup could be from water vapor entering the cylinder when the engine is not running , this may occur from evaporation in the water box and condensation in the combustion chamber if the exhaust valves are in the open position , 4 stroke engines do like to stop in certain positions, years ago Chevy 350 engines would wear down a spot on the flywheel gears for that reason , the starter was always hitting the same teeth of the flywheel as the engine liked to stop in the same place. Since these boats have water boxes directly connected to the exhaust manifold it is very possible.
Water evaporates sitting in the box especially directly after you shut down the engine and the water is hot, you put away the boat, the muffler still has water in it, water vapor condenses in the cylinder of any open exhaust valve. Over time this can rust or corrode the end of the spark plug if it is just a little past the head. I never have this issue because I coat the bottom threads of the plugs with a small amount of never seize. In any event I would work the plug loose carefully as previously described.
 
I’d:

1. wait til the end of boating season
2. heat up the engine
3. Soak the plug overnight with penetrating oil
4. Warm up the engine again
5. Attempt back out the plug (even getting it to back out a tiny bit will help more oil get down where it’s needed)
6. Repeat the soaking process
7. Attempt to remove it again. Working it in and out.

At the very least, id break it off in there myself trying to remove it before I’d pay them that kind of money to tear the engine down. Good luck with it hope it works out well for you.
100% agree on this methodology. Same course of action I would take.
 
That is very interesting about the torque removal ratings of ATF/Acetone.
Hot Rod magazine did a similar study back in the 70's I think. Found Diesel fuel and acetone was also a great combo. Acetone thins the oil just long enough to let it deep into the threads, then evaporates and let's the oil do its job
 
I have looked at a lot of these plugs when I remove them and I notice a buildup at the very end of the plug, I suspect that the plugs protrude through the head just a slight amount .
Maybe someone with a head off the engine could look closely

here you go.

Pic of threads in head.
 

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There is certainly not a lot of meat there , I think the end of the plug could be exposed enough for moisture and carbon to get on the end threads, I always see the ends dark even with silver never seize on them I use iridium plugs so I do not change them that often , if they were going to get stuck the longer they sit the worse they would get. Just like the number 3 in the M R 1 engines I am seeing more and more of the 1800 engine plugs getting stuck so there must be a reason, and since I have 850 hours with no issues I am staying the course with never seize. Now if I could just get my hands on 2 new FX HO cruisers damn it.
 
x2 PB Blaster
(+ some patience to let it work)
1603589306174.png
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So stuck at 100hr service. Is the first time this dealer has worked on your boat? Did they do an earlier inspection (10 hr)? Do you have the YES warranty?
 
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