Stick wedged in impeller/housing

[Julian]

So basically I had to take the nozzle/bucket off, then as shown in my second picture it is now all one piece and I had to take 5 more bolts out and then that part comes out of the transom with impeller and housing. All that for those two little sticks that I couldn’t get out through the clean out or the intake grate. Thanks for everyone’s pointers. I ended up using brake cleaner to remove the old silicone and using blue rtv and then also blue loctite on all the bolts. Hopefully my seals are all good with the new rtv

Is there some reason you can't leave the nozzle attached to the part behind it and take it off as one unit?

 

[HangOutdoors]

I mean I wouldn't do it right at the ramp, I would pull it into a parking spot on trailer and work on it, but it is far better than listening to 4-6 teenage girls complain that their day was ruined.

 

[mwalker4]

Is there some reason you can't leave the nozzle attached to the part behind it and take it off as one unit?

Looking at my boat, I think it is very possible but requires the correct set of socket extenders.

 

[Smitty244]

Is there some reason you can't leave the nozzle attached to the part behind it and take it off as one unit?

After it was all done I asked myself the same question and I can’t see why not. I did it this way because the old models apparently that’s all you did was take those four bolts out. The. I realized I had another piece with 5 bolts left still on the 21

 

[Julian]

After it was all done I asked myself the same question and I can’t see why not. I did it this way because the old models apparently that’s all you did was take those four bolts out. The. I realized I had another piece with 5 bolts left still on the 21

I suspect they just changed the bolt placement, and if you'd left the nozzle attached you would have had more leverage to pull the pump off. But with the ride plate where it is on the 190, it makes it harder to get in there to pry the pump apart.

Bottom line....you now know how to do it! And it shouldn't take long next time!

 

[rbarthur21]

After reading this thread I checked mine. 2020 sx190. It’s the same new design. Good to know. I haven’t had to pull it yet.

 

[Sean R]

Damn you guys are good if you can do it quickly at a ramp. Maybe next time I’d be ok but still took a lot of time getting off old silicone and then reapplying it

I never re-sealed my 2020 212S with no ill affect, I was expecting some cavataion but nope. The 2017 Ar190 I had before (old style pump) never had sealant. I also sprayed the threaded holes and bolts with silicone to clean then off, wire brushed the bolts, then added loctite to the bolts. When I removed the pump for the 100 hr service (grease the shaft) removing the pumps were a lot faster. Unless one of our seasoned members tells me a reason to seal the pumps I am not doing it, it made the task of removal a bitch.

 

[buckbuck]

I now pull my pumps every winter. I do not reseal the pumps and have not had a problem.

 

[Sean R]

I now pull my pumps every winter. I do not reseal the pumps and have not had a problem.

Good, I feel better that I am not the only one ?

 

[steve0617]

The 19s were the first with the one piece pump. I started a thread notating how short the bolts are compared to the full length bolts in the older videos/2 piece pump. Post #25 notates how a different boater removed the entire thing.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/impeller-pump-removal-on-a-2019-ar195-different-than-just-the-4-14mm-bolts.25558/

 

[OurCrew]

Thanks for this thread, my maiden voyage and I got a stick, thank God I chose the 210 FSH over the 190 the second engine got us back

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I’ve pulled my pumps several times over the summer doing impeller testing. It now takes me about 1 hour and 15 mins to remove the pumps, change impellers and reassemble the pumps. It would go quicker if I did not reply seal the pumps and apply sealant to the bolts per the manual, probably takes me an extra 20 mins to run a tap into the 10 mm holes and a die over the 10 mm bolts to remove the sealant. I use the gasket maker specified in the service manual, so far it has never fully cured and doesn’t always need to be removed, maybe just a touch up after several R&R’s.

If I was on a trip away from home I’d just R&R the affected pump to remove the stick and continue boating.

Somewhere I had read about someone who made a tool, a rod with a hook on it with sharpened edges, and a handle on the other end that could be used from the back to reach up inside to break apart a stick or other offending piece of debris.

 

[meaningreen]

Good, I feel better that I am not the only one ?

Same I debated on if I should or not reseal, I choose not to as well. Had no issues.