Subwoofer location on 2016 242X E-series

[David Decker]

I'm going to add a sub to my 2016 242 Limited S E-series, and I'm considering putting it in the factory location for the sub on the 242X. Since the hulls are the same, there should be room there for the same sub. I believe it is a Polk Audio DB1040, maybe the dual-voice-coil version.

I've attached a picture. Does anyone have access to a 242X to measure the exact location of the sub? Is there anything behind it (any reinforcement, a backing ring, a fiberglassed "enclosure" around the sub ...), or is it simply dropped into a cutout?

 

[txav8r]

@David Decker , I can't identify where that is from the picture. I am thinking it is the port side under the chair support. That position wouldn't work on previous boats due to a seat reinforcement that blocked the ability to get enough clearance inside. But I know they made changes in 2015 and on. I just don't know what changes they made. If your doing a sealed enclosure, you need room for that. If you are doing an IB (infinite baffle), you still need room clear of any interfering storage items. But you may be able to fit it in. Keep in mind the curve under the speaker, it will have to be above the floor far enough for the surface wall to be flat. And you can't encroach on the top where any seat frame or support interfere. A 10" IB or sealed enclosure BARELY fits on my '12 SX 240 on the starboard side and the port side would not work in the same location.

 

[David Decker]

@txav8r , you are correct - this is the port side under the 'passenger' seat of a 242x. This is how the 2016 242x comes from the factory, so I was wondering if my 242 Limited S has the same structure underneath.
I'm guessing that it may, but I'm not sure if I'm willing to drill holes to find out I thought about borrowing an inspection camera from work and snaking it up from the port rear seat area to take a look in there.
If I do that, I'll post some pictures of what I find inside.

I am also considering a sealed enclosure on the starboard side near the cooler as many others have done - it seems much lower risk since I can easily see what I'm in for, but I'd prefer the port side if possible since it is a little more out of the way and doesn't take anything away from storage.

I've read quite a few postings on the forum about subwoofers - there is a lot of good info about sealed and IB here.

 

[David Decker]

Here is a better view of the sub in the 242x

 

[ChrisP]

If you go into the rear passengers compartment you can pull out the carpeted panel to get a good look behind that side. I added 8" 2 ways to that area and wanted to get a good look first. Didn't want to hit anything while drilling and cutting. All you have to do is remove screw from bracket and pull the edges of carpet that is glued off. You could use some 3m spray glue to reglue it when you are done but I did not and the carpet holds tight. If you want an enclosure (which will make your sub sound way better) there is not much room back there. I would suggest putting it in the rear compartment, just my opinion.View media item 2931

 

[David Decker]

@ChrisP - I installed my sub today, and also the new 5-channel amp. I ended up selecting the same location as on the 242X.

I measured very carefully before cutting - there is enough clearance behind this spot for a Polk DB1040 sub, but there is not a lot of room to spare. Here is a shot of that area after removing the panel:


There is about 6" of space in there at the narrowest point, and the sub is 5 7/16" deep, so there's only about 9/16" gap at the narrowest point:


You can also see that the cupholders do not have any drain lines - I plan to add these so the sub doesn't get dripped on.

Here are a couple pictures after the install:


For those adding amps to 2015 or 2016 242's,note that there are already holes drilled in the panel - I just slit the carpeting and passed the cables though. I installed the amp here on the panel:



I pulled new cables for the bow speakers and for the cabin speakers. These were quite easy to pull once I figured out that I could pull them in sections and not "all at once".
I pulled the wiring on the port side by popping the port bow seat and running a "fish tape" back to the battery area. I attached the speaker wire onto the fish tape, and pulled it up to the bow.
On the starboard side, I worked from the cooler compartment first, fishing the tape up to the console area. I ran the port side wiring to the starboard side through the front wall of the engine
compartment, using split loom tubing to protect the wire, and zip ties, plastic cable clamps and stainless screws to secure it out of the way.

I still have some additional work to do to finish the install, but got the most difficult parts finished today.

 

[ChrisP]

Looks good! You will have to let us know how it sounds when you are done.

 

[OperationROL]

@ChrisP

For those adding amps to 2015 or 2016 242's,note that there are already holes drilled in the panel - I just slit the carpeting and passed the cables though. I installed the amp here on the panel:

View attachment 33847 View attachment 33845

Looks really nice. I will be following suit. Where is that panel from?

 

[David Decker]

@OperationROL - Thanks! That panel is located on the port side under the rear seats in the battery area. It is the "front bulkhead" of that compartment.
It removes easily with only 3 screws to provide access to the stereo wiring. Here is a shot of it before removal:

 

[OperationROL]

@David Decker , did you install another pair of cabin speakers as well? I am planning to, but the location (which I love) where you put the sub, looks like the only location for the port side cabin addition. Anyone have any ideas of another location to put the port side speaker if I want to use the location under the cupholders for the Sub?

 

[David Decker]

@OperationROL - I didn't install any additional cabin speakers. I thought about installing a pair of tower speakers, but we don't spend that much time skiing or wake boarding.

I also considered installing a pair of 8" 2-way or component speakers like @ChrisP, but ultimately decided on the 10" sub only.

 

[OperationROL]

@OperationROL - I didn't install any additional cabin speakers. I thought about installing a pair of tower speakers, but we don't spend that much time skiing or wake boarding.

I also considered installing a pair of 8" 2-way or component speakers like @ChrisP, but ultimately decided on the 10" sub only.

OK. I may have to use that area under the cupholders for the port side addition and figure a good place for the sub. I am thinking the starboard storage behind my seat, either facing the helm or facing port. What do you think?

 

[OperationROL]

@David Decker - Did you end up getting the DVC version of the sub or the standard one?

 

[ChrisP]

@David Decker , did you install another pair of cabin speakers as well? I am planning to, but the location (which I love) where you put the sub, looks like the only location for the port side cabin addition. Anyone have any ideas of another location to put the port side speaker if I want to use the location under the cupholders for the Sub?

I would strongly recommend adding a set of speakers in the cockpit. Made a huge difference in being able to hear everything clear while the boat is up and running.

 

[OperationROL]

I would strongly recommend adding a set of speakers in the cockpit. Made a huge difference in being able to hear everything clear while the boat is up and running.

I definitely will.......as a matter of fact, they arrived today!

 

[ChrisP]

I definitely will.......as a matter of fact, they arrived today!

Nice! What did you get?

 

[OperationROL]

Nothing fancy. Just adittional db651 s. Driving 4 cabin with JBL MA6004. Plan to get the Polk 1040 sub. At that time I will switch the cabins and sub to Polk PAD 5000.5 and put the swim deck and bow on the JBL.

 

[David Decker]

@ChrisP - I am guessing most subs would sound their best musically when mounted in a quality sealed enclosure, since it is hard to properly execute an IB-type install in our boats. I'll report my impressions of how my system
performs on the port side in my 'IB' installation. My objective to add some low end, but I don't have any plans to crank the bass way up to the point where things start rattling and buzzing. My decision came down to considering
which was the most important to me - maximizing musical fidelity or minimizing the impact on storage.

@OperationROL - the sub I installed was the dual-voice coil Polk db1040-DVC (dual 4-Ohm voice coils wired in parallel) and the amp was the Polk PAD5000.5.

 

[OperationROL]

[USER=27]@OperationROL - the sub I installed was the dual-voice coil Polk db1040-DVC (dual 4-Ohm voice coils wired in parallel) and the amp was the Polk PAD5000.5.[/USER]

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Thanks. I can't wait to get the boat out and actually start working through the possibilities.

 

[ChrisP]

@ChrisP - I am guessing most subs would sound their best musically when mounted in a quality sealed enclosure, since it is hard to properly execute an IB-type install in our boats. I'll report my impressions of how my system
performs on the port side in my 'IB' installation. My objective to add some low end, but I don't have any plans to crank the bass way up to the point where things start rattling and buzzing. My decision came down to considering
which was the most important to me - maximizing musical fidelity or minimizing the impact on storage.

@OperationROL - the sub I installed was the dual-voice coil Polk db1040-DVC (dual 4-Ohm voice coils wired in parallel) and the amp was the Polk PAD5000.5.

I get that. See pic below, I didn't loose a ton of space although if I add an on board charger and extra battery as planned this compartment will be done. I have way more bass than needed. Ended up turning the gain to about 25%. It does have a very crisp drum beat though. View media item 2934View media item 2934