Took my LS2000 for the first time, couple questions

[UnorthodoxCreations]

I bought my LS2000 last fall(https://jetboaters.net/threads/new-...-i-have-pics-and-questions.24280/#post-407139) and got a chance to take it out yesterday for the first time. It did well. Docking and getting back on the trailer wasn't too bad without any kind of fins. I'm coming from a Jet Ski, not another boat so driving is similar. I have a few things to address and have a few questions.

Is there any kind of warning for engines overheating? I overheated an engine in my Jet Ski last year to the point I had to replace the engine. I'd like to prevent that if one of the engines overheated but I don't see any kind of warning lights. If there is nothing has anyone ever added something?

Anyone have a port side mirror they would sell? Mine was broken when I bought it.

It has a Kenwood head unit. I believe it is original but I'm not sure. It is stuck in a "PROTECT" mode which from my reading means there is a short somewhere in the speakers but I disconnected them all and nothing changed. Any ideas before I just replace it?

I've noticed there is quite a big of storage under the 2 cockpit storage bins. I'd like to use that space for stuff like extra life jackets, boat fender bumpers, etc. Has anyone closed off that area in anyway? I'm just trying to keep stuff clean and from falling down into the ski locker or into somewhere hard to get?

Neither of my tachs work. They power up but don't read correct. They aren't original but appear to be connected correctly. Any suggestions for something that looks fairly close to stock and doesn't cost a fortune?

Is the fuel tank 42 gallons plus 7 reserve or 42 with 7 reserve? My fuel gauge doesn't work, I need to troubleshoot whether its the gauge or sender.

Does anyone know what this plug below is? It's behind the radio, runs over to behind the gauges then goes to another plug that seems to have speaker wire coming off it. I would think it goes to the speaker behind the starboard seat but then why isn't it connect to the radio. It doesn't look like it does.

I want to install an air/fuel separator. I'd kind of prefer to make my own to save some money. The fittings and hose is no issue. Any recommendations for the container part?

My horn doesn't work. I need to put 12 volts to it to see if it is the horn or switch.

 

[the MfM]

Welcome,

To answer some questions

The engine will limit rpm if it overheats, 3500 I believe
42 gallons total
With the aftermarket tachs there is usually some settings for what different engine types. Maybe they were never set correctly?
No idea on the wire. I’ll look at mine next weekend.

I just installed air fuel seperators and used go kart catch cans off eBay. I added one for each engine though others have been fine using one for both engines.

Aluminum Go Kart Cart Racing Part Motor Oil Overflow Engine Catch Tank Can Kit | eBay

The main use of this tank is in go kart racing, but can be used in other application requiring overflow protection such as racing motorcycles, bar stool racers, clones, ect. It is tapped on both ends for 1/8" NPT (pipe thread).

www.ebay.com

 

[the MfM]

Here’s what I came up with for the seperators. I also added a #95 jet in the return line tees

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

Here’s what I came up with for the seperators. I also added a #95 jet in the return line tees
View attachment 121716
View attachment 121717

Thanks. I'm going to buy that same tank and the same for pump yourself or someone else recommended in another thread. What's the point of the return fuel jet? Is that a slight restriction?

 

[the MfM]

Yes, the jet is to restrict the flow in the return line. That way most of the fuel flow is going through the carb racks. I used some translucent fuel line on the returns so I could see how well it’s working. A surprising amount of air makes its way through the system when you first start the engines. And with the restrictor jet the air bubbles move slow but steadily back through the return.

Now that I know it’s working as designed I plan to replace the fuel lines with CG approved lines.

 

[OCMD]

Having been the first LS2000 owner on record on the "other" forum who blew an engine solely because I popped an oil line, you have been warned. DO NOT GO OUT IN THAT BOAT until you have replaced and secured the oil lines. A dubious distinction about 15 years ago, and since my failure, for several years these failures occurred in great numbers. The plastic material Yamaha used for the lines was 1) not long enough such that bouncing around over the years eventually caused them to eventually pop off and 2) the crap plastic had a tendency to shrink over time. These 2 things caused the lines to pop off. Take a look in there and see for yourself. If the lines are secured with tie-wraps, they are original and are going to come off. The lines loosen over time, and the line will slip off of its fitting when the hose shrinks. When this happens, you won't know it until the engine had burned up. You can either pre mix your fuel and disconnect the oil pump (pump failures are extremely rare); or do what I did with my SBT replacement engine which failed in one year, but that's a story for another day - just don't buy SBT garbage, ever! Replace the oil lines with better lines and secure them with better clamps or safety wire. Island Racing on Long Island (if still in business) sold replacement kits by the dozens.

ISLAND RACING

As for that other site, unlike this one (the best forum of its type in history), I won't get banned from this site for referring you to the other site. I rarely look at the other site other than to see what's for sale out there for my friends, but it is pretty much a good site for information on the Yamaha 2 strokes. Certainly more info on that site than this site, for the 2 strokes. You have been warned! Check those lines and if not replaced, do it now. And if you don't, and pop a line and blow an engine, do not buy an SBT POS rebuild. SBT=Garbage. Good luck, and here is the link to that other site.

Yamaha Jet Boaters • Index page

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

Having been the first LS2000 owner on record on the "other" forum who blew an engine solely because I popped an oil line, you have been warned. DO NOT GO OUT IN THAT BOAT until you have replaced and secured the oil lines. A dubious distinction about 15 years ago, and since my failure, for several years these failures occurred in great numbers. The plastic material Yamaha used for the lines was 1) not long enough such that bouncing around over the years eventually caused them to eventually pop off and 2) the crap plastic had a tendency to shrink over time. These 2 things caused the lines to pop off. Take a look in there and see for yourself. If the lines are secured with tie-wraps, they are original and are going to come off. The lines loosen over time, and the line will slip off of its fitting when the hose shrinks. When this happens, you won't know it until the engine had burned up. You can either pre mix your fuel and disconnect the oil pump (pump failures are extremely rare); or do what I did with my SBT replacement engine which failed in one year, but that's a story for another day - just don't buy SBT garbage, ever! Replace the oil lines with better lines and secure them with better clamps or safety wire. Island Racing on Long Island (if still in business) sold replacement kits by the dozens.

ISLAND RACING

As for that other site, unlike this one (the best forum of its type in history), I won't get banned from this site for referring you to the other site. I rarely look at the other site other than to see what's for sale out there for my friends, but it is pretty much a good site for information on the Yamaha 2 strokes. Certainly more info on that site than this site, for the 2 strokes. You have been warned! Check those lines and if not replaced, do it now. And if you don't, and pop a line and blow an engine, do not buy an SBT POS rebuild. SBT=Garbage. Good luck, and here is the link to that other site.

Yamaha Jet Boaters • Index page

The previous owner must have replaced the oil lines at some point. They are all in great condition and well attached.

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

Couple of updates in the past week.

-I installed a new Sony headunit. Seems great though I'm not sure my 20 year old speakers are the greatest test. Updating them will probably come soon. The brown/orange wire I was asking about earlier seems to go to the original remote mounted by the driver's seat.

-I installed a new horn as mine didn't work, that was super simple.


-I installed all new gauges except the speedo because it still works. The fuel gauge and sending unit were both bad. I was able to fix the sending unit by regluing the magnets to the float. I'm going to add a little warning light to the dash since this new fuel gauge doesn't have an oil light. I replaced both tachs. I also added water temp gauges for each engine with sending units right off the engine. I don't know if they will be super effective but it gives me a little piece of mind that I might catch a problem before it's too late.



I replaced my port side Forward/Reverse cable. It was pretty stiff when I got the boat. I thought it might work itself easier with some use but it was just getting worse and worse. I couldn't tell until I removed it but the stern end was pretty bad. Fortunately I was able to get a new one for less than $50 and replacing it was pretty easy. I disconnected the old cable at both ends then tape the new cable to the stern end of the old cable and was able to pull the old out through the shifter hole while pulling the new with it. There was just one zip tie behind the engine bulkhead that needed removed. That was accessible through the access hole so no reason to remove the cleanout cover. Shifts like butter now.


I also replace the passenger side hub. When I did my first water test 2 weeks ago the trailer barely made the hour drive to the lake. You try to look everything over but I missed that that hub was in bad shape. Fortunately we found a replacement hub at a nearby trailer supply store and were able to replace everything in the parking lot. When I got home I checked the other side and while it looked to be in much better shape, I'm guessing it's original and for $30 I'd much rather replace it now than have a problem later.



Tonight I'm going to get most if not all of my air/fuel separator system setup. Other than some tidying up that is about all I have left to do before I can hit the water.

 

[the MfM]

Those temp gauges look factory! Let us know how it works out. I’m thinking I may need to copy your idea.

I take it those are one wire senders? Can’t see how you grounded them??

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

Those temp gauges look factory! Let us know how it works out. I’m thinking I may need to copy your idea.

I take it those are one wire senders? Can’t see how you grounded them??

Yes, just one wire senders off Amazon. I wired Ignition, Ground and Illumination to the other nearby gauges and then I just ran one wire back to each sender. I'm pleased with the result other than not matching the speedo but I'm trying to not spend too much money on this boat given it's age. At least that gauge is front and center. I'm not sure what readings I'll get for "normal" but once I have a baseline I hope will show if something goes wrong in the future.

 

[the MfM]

I was under the impression one wire senders need to be grounded...usually through the engine block. But if they are working I guess I’m wrong.

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

I was under the impression one wire senders need to be grounded...usually through the engine block. But if they are working I guess I’m wrong.

Maybe I'm wrong. I can try to double check tonight. I'm pretty sure the needles move a little when the keys are turned on but I haven't been able to run either engine yet as I have other stuff apart. I thought we were going to take it to the river this weekend but it seems all my friends have other plans so I don't know if that is going to happen. If I don't get it in the water this coming weekend I'll run it on the hose and then next weekend it goes the beach for a couple days.

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

I was under the impression one wire senders need to be grounded...usually through the engine block. But if they are working I guess I’m wrong.

Maybe I'm wrong. I can try to double check tonight. I'm pretty sure the needles move a little when the keys are turned on but I haven't been able to run either engine yet as I have other stuff apart. I thought we were going to take it to the river this weekend but it seems all my friends have other plans so I don't know if that is going to happen. If I don't get it in the water this coming weekend I'll run it on the hose and then next weekend it goes the beach for a couple days.

You're right that these do need to be grounded. Not sure how I can do that. Might need some different fittings or maybe I can find a 2 wire sending unit with ground wire.

 

[the MfM]

If you can connect a ground to the brass fittings somehow they might work.

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

I wo

If you can connect a ground to the brass fittings somehow they might work.

I wound up soldering grounds to the body of the t fitting. That should work but I think these gauges are never going to show anything of use, at least not until it's too late. They don't really register until 120 degrees and the water coming out of there isn't that hot. I either need gauges that register at a lower temp or go a different direction like cylinder head temp gauges. Unfortunately none of those exist in the family of gauges I used for the tachs and fuel gauge. Maybe I'll abandone and kind of temp gauge here and do something else. Not really sure at this point

 

[the MfM]

The cylinder heads have a spot cast into them where I always figured that the engineers had planned to add a temp gauge. But the final machining wasn’t done. The bolts are in place and the spacing looks the same as what’s used for the temp gauge in the exhaust.

You could probably drill and tap a hole for the senders you already have. The gasket goes around the area already...it’s just an empty hole in the water jacket.

 

[Roof Man]

Since y'all have/deal with similar boats, perhaps you can help or steer me right!?

Have read about doing the Pre-mix conversion (getting rid of the oil tank and all) ... right now, it "may" be an option, as I found that, looks like the oil reservoir is filled with "4 stroke" Yamalube! (boat has 2 - 2 stroke engines!) Sigh ... another thing to do on my list. Not sure if I'll get it on the water this year ... (

So I assume that I have to empty that out as much as I can to put the 2 stroke oil in. May think about the conversion now. LOL

ALSO... if anyone can respond, Questions!!!
1) So you can't buy a spark plug wires to replace the old ones, as in auto's!? (I see where I can send the wires/coil covers in to get redone)
2) Are basic "high flow" Fuel Filters ok to use!? I assume a 1/4" line (can't find specs on any of the layouts online of the boat), without paper in them? They go for $2-5each, where-as anything Yamaha branded (even the 3rd party fuel filters) are $25ea+
3) Assume to TRY and use Ethanol free gas, if I can find it. Trailering the boat, and won't be used as often as most do. Will use StaBil
4) Anyone know of a person/place to get "hands on" help!? (Dallas, Tx area) A place close that works on these, says he's booked into January! (wow!)
5) After I moved it, pulled it to a new home on the trailer, had a strong smell of gas, but couldn't find any anywhere... hmmmm
6) Seems all wires are hooked to "one" marine battery, and there's a new smaller one, but not hooked up... a problem!? Can both engines work off of 1 battery or does it need to be wired to 2/both at all times?
7) Have order new spark plugs... IF I get it all started/running, just use them as is for the short time remaining this year? Or go ahead and replace them now and also use them next season?
8) Still need to "change out" the oil lines (if I keep them! lol) There was a place to order a "kit" for this/these wasn't there!? And the gas lines too? (and more!?)
9) Rear sear back seems to be "falling." Any way to repair or fix the support or frame of that? (without replacing it)
10) Etc etc etc .... sure I'm missing things but ... whew, got myself into a "time machine" for sure!

Thanks for the help and guidance!

 

[Bruce]

1. Replacement plug wires are available. This is one source. SPARK PLUG WIRE REPLACEMENT SERVICE - Yamaha LS2000 LX210 GP 1200 Waveventure 1100 Ignition coil plug wire replacement SERVICE - Jet Ski Solutions

3. I only used ethanol free gas with Seafoam added in my LX210.

4. Anyone who works on Waverunners should be able to help. What do you need help with?

5. Perhaps take a look around the fuel tank?

6. Both engines can function from one battery. It would be best to install a battery switch or an add a battery kit to be able to use both batteries.

7. Being a two stroke use spark plugs while the engine is running well. Even with my four stroke I keep a spare set of spark plugs in the boat all the time.

8. @ISLANDRACING sells oil line kits. They likely have spark plug wires as well. ISLAND RACING

 

[OCMD]

Any fuel filter will work. I used to get basic ones at walmart for about 2 bucks a piece. Carry extras because once a season you will say "why am I bogging down?" and a simple replacement of the filter is the fix. Don't ask me how I know.....years ago and a dummy I just pulled it in and tralered it to a POS shop in delaware (Did I say avoid wmf watercraft !) and 150 bucks later I found out it was a clogged filter. Never went back again. Sparks plugs you can get at any auto store. I changed em out prolly twice a season. cheap improvement. IF you are going to run it, you dont need non eth gas. Just dont store it a long time without non eth or at least stabil.. When using it regularly during the season there is no need to treat the gas at all. Its just wasting money. But for a lengthy period of time? treat the gas for sure.

 

[Roof Man]

Thanks for the reply guys!
I know of JSS plug plan, you ship them the wires AND the coil covers and they re-work them. Supposedly we "owners" can't remove the wires from the coil covers to replace/rebuild them. 1) Is it possible? 2)They don't sell a wire kit for this!? (for us to do ourselves? "should be" a simple process)

Need general help, in getting it running! lol As I mentioned in other posts, starboard engine doesn't start, but "may" have figured that out... but now of course I let the battery drain so have to charge that up. (and thus the battery question as well)

And as mentioned, found that 4stroke oil is in the oil reservoir ... (mentioned above in the post) ... drain it all!? But since I may have to do that, convert to Pre-mix? Didn't really think I wanted/had to do that, but since I "may" have to drain it all anyway ...