Totalscan Transducer install 210 FSH

[swifty_210FSH]

@swifty_210FSH

Thank's for the write up. I'm following in your steps but have on question. What did you use to reseal the bolts going thru the ride play into the hull? Do you know what that black sealant material is?
View attachment 83616

After removing the bolts I applied some Atwood Silicone Sealant to the threads before re-installation. Not exactly sure what the black sealant is and just left it in place. No leaking issues.

 

[Scottie]

@swifty_210FSH any interest in fabbing another one of those mounts for me? For appropriate compensation of course.

 

[210 FSH]

I liked what @swifty_210FSH did and wanted to copy it but using plastic (HDPE) instead of aluminum. The plastic is intert and easier for me to work with. I fabricated a couple of HDPE blocks to match the contours of the ride plate and to compensate for the the dead rise at the transom. The blocks are mounted to the stock ride plate bolt holes (I didn't want to drill any holes in the boat below the waterline - yes, I know there are already many from the factory) using stainless hardware and 3200. I did mount my transducer "slightly" farther back than Swifty because I didn't want it protruding fore of the mounting blocks creating turbulence or excess drag. It works great up until around 24 mph where it loses depth and bottom unless I'm turning "away" from the transducer (to starboard) which I'm not sure I understand unless it's the forward strakes that are creating turbulence/interferenct. After reading all the forums I really thought I had it figured out but...back to the drawing board I suppose as I want it to work at any speed. I do not want to mount it any lower and don't think it should need to be lower. I fish in the gulf and don't necessarily need water temp. At least I don't have any holes to patch. If you have any thoughts about what I did wrong please let me know.

 

[Ehren]

Can you provide any additional pictures, from the sides perhaps?

 

[Daron]

I liked what @swifty_210FSH did and wanted to copy it but using plastic (HDPE) instead of aluminum. The plastic is intert and easier for me to work with. I fabricated a couple of HDPE blocks to match the contours of the ride plate and to compensate for the the dead rise at the transom. The blocks are mounted to the stock ride plate bolt holes (I didn't want to drill any holes in the boat below the waterline - yes, I know there are already many from the factory) using stainless hardware and 3200. I did mount my transducer "slightly" farther back than Swifty because I didn't want it protruding fore of the mounting blocks creating turbulence or excess drag. It works great up until around 24 mph where it loses depth and bottom unless I'm turning "away" from the transducer (to starboard) which I'm not sure I understand unless it's the forward strakes that are creating turbulence/interferenct. After reading all the forums I really thought I had it figured out but...back to the drawing board I suppose as I want it to work at any speed. I do not want to mount it any lower and don't think it should need to be lower. I fish in the gulf and don't necessarily need water temp. At least I don't have any holes to patch. If you have any thoughts about what I did wrong please let me know.
View attachment 89163

I have been following this thread because I am wanting to do this to my boat eventually and interested in different ideas. So, my input is merely speculation and I have no actual experience with one yet. With that said my first thought was the speed of the boat. In the end all the data being gathered by the transducer is being processed by a computer. As we all know computers only process info as fast as the "processors" they are made with. I think of the transducer as a camera taking tons of pictures per second, and something (the main display/control head unit) can process so many at once. So I was thinking that maybe it can't process that much feedback data from the transducer at that speed. I went to the Lowrance website and download the install instructions for the transducer and this is what I found. Seems slower speeds are optimal, and the 24mph you are having troubles with it and above, fall outside of some of these recommended parameters. I don't know if this helps. I'm still trying to think of other ideas, because so far I have been planning on mounting mine in the same location you and Swifty did. You may have a perfectly ideal mount location, it just might be to fast? I am curious if Swifty has the same problems at those speeds?

This link is to the entire install instructions.

ftp://software.lowrance.com/TotalScan-Transducer_IM_EN_988-11051-003_w.pdf

 

[210 FSH]

Yes, I can get some more pictures. Thank you @Daron for the feedback and the info from Lowrance. I am going to try the different settings while cruising. Maybe CHIRP will yield better results for instance. I have only taken the boat out once since the install. Weather looks good for the next few days so I hope to get it wet again and will provide an update after the ride.

 

[Daron]

Yes, I can get some more pictures. Thank you @Daron for the feedback and the info from Lowrance. I am going to try the different settings while cruising. Maybe CHIRP will yield better results for instance. I have only taken the boat out once since the install. Weather looks good for the next few days so I hope to get it wet again and will provide an update after the ride.

Just curious where you got your HDPE from? Online?

 

[210 FSH]

@Daron
I get it from various places but the pieces for this particular project (1” and 1.5” thick sheet stock) I got online. I think they came from amazon to be exact.

 

[Jclax]

Mounted mine in the same spot using an aluminum bracket almost the same as your bracket design. Problem with that location is the right side resolution on side scan is diminished and it won’t scan on plane sometimes. It also can hit the trailer bunks during loading. Moving it to the back of the boat tonight, will fish Saturday and Sunday and report back on the results.

 

[Gund128]

I liked what @swifty_210FSH did and wanted to copy it but using plastic (HDPE) instead of aluminum. The plastic is intert and easier for me to work with. I fabricated a couple of HDPE blocks to match the contours of the ride plate and to compensate for the the dead rise at the transom. The blocks are mounted to the stock ride plate bolt holes (I didn't want to drill any holes in the boat below the waterline - yes, I know there are already many from the factory) using stainless hardware and 3200. I did mount my transducer "slightly" farther back than Swifty because I didn't want it protruding fore of the mounting blocks creating turbulence or excess drag. It works great up until around 24 mph where it loses depth and bottom unless I'm turning "away" from the transducer (to starboard) which I'm not sure I understand unless it's the forward strakes that are creating turbulence/interferenct. After reading all the forums I really thought I had it figured out but...back to the drawing board I suppose as I want it to work at any speed. I do not want to mount it any lower and don't think it should need to be lower. I fish in the gulf and don't necessarily need water temp. At least I don't have any holes to patch. If you have any thoughts about what I did wrong please let me know.
View attachment 89163

Noob here.. how and what was used to attach the hdpe to??

 

[Jclax]

Had mine located there, couldn’t figure out why my boat pulled to the left at speed for about 2 months. Moved it back to the transom, fixed the pull.

 

[210 FSH]

@Gund128 - the plastic block was bolted to the hull using the factory ride plate bolt locations with 1/2" longer bolts.

 

[brownjjst]

I finally got around to installing my Lowrance HDS-9 Carbon. For me, it basically came down to 2 possible locations to mount the transducer. On the inboard or outboard side of either ride plate (ok that's 4 locations). Others have done this a little differently before and I decided to use some materials I had on hand and attach it mechanically (bolt on). I was really wanting the sidescan to function properly and after making some measurements the outboard side of the ride plate offers the least amount of interference from the keel. I cut some aluminum pieces, fixtured them at the correct angle, TIG welded them up and it is rock solid! Took the boat out this past weekend and the sidescan performance is good to go. It also maintained depth readings at high speed. Overall, I am really happy with how it turned out. Starting to feel a little sorry for what the fish have in store for them.

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Do you think they could possibly make me a set and I pay them for it?
Shawn

 

[washipdog]

Has anyone thought about mounting a transducer on the keel as far back as possible? This would require a custom bracket. Seems to me this would be the absolute best place to mount it. Thoughts!

 

[Liveto99]

Lowest part on the boat. Hit something and you need a new one.

 

[Dixie Highway]

Honestly I have no trouble with mine up to 35 mph or so. If you’re looking for unobtrusive I’d fine a shoot thru and epoxy it in the bilge. Or do a flush mount.

 

[washipdog]

I already mounted mine on the back of the boat, starboard side. It works great but when I was installing it I was thinking the keel would be a great place to install it for optimal performance of the transducer. This would require some sort of special bracket. Liveto99 does make a good point about hitting something, however I try my best not to hit things! lol

 

[Liveto99]

I don’t think anyone does, but...