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Tower up or down for towing?

Not sure if it is the same on the newer 212X, but my longer bolts go through the top connections and have a retaining ring fit through a hole on the exposed end to keep them from vibrating out.
 
Maybe a switched part? Are all towers the same diameter or were some thicker?
 
But I only have 1 for both sides that are longer than rest.

What do you mean by retaining ring? 2013 has screw in bolt style.
 
I put my tower down for long trips. I also have a 2008 212X. I do it for the gas mileage but you guys have poo poo-ed that before. Kinda hurt my feelings.:)
Don't you worry - we keep something in the office just for this kind of occasion.

Please fill out the attached form and return as soon as possible! :winkingthumbsup"
 

Attachments

(At least for the 08 212X) the uppermost tower bracket hole is a through hole, the bolt protrudes through to the other side. The protruding portion of the bolt has a small hole perpendicular to the axis for the retaining ring. The retaining ring is basically your normal key ring, which feeds through the hole and prevents it from unscrewing. The lower two tower bracket holes are blind holes, and the bolts thread into them but stop before bottoming out.

So you should have only one longer bolt for each side. Hope that makes sense.

aa.JPG
 
In the schematic above for the newer 212, looks like instead of a key ring the through bolt is connected to a second knob.
 
Man I just want a tower that folds so I can get it in my building! If anyone has any ideas I would really be thankful!
 
What about having some bung joints welded in so it can fold?
 
I have been thinking about that for a long time. Talked to the company who built my building told me it would be about $4000 to raise my garage door. So I'm trying real hard to fold that tower!
 
We just got a new cnc machine at work. Maybe have to make some out of aluminum! ;)
 
(At least for the 08 212X) the uppermost tower bracket hole is a through hole, the bolt protrudes through to the other side. The protruding portion of the bolt has a small hole perpendicular to the axis for the retaining ring. The retaining ring is basically your normal key ring, which feeds through the hole and prevents it from unscrewing. The lower two tower bracket holes are blind holes, and the bolts thread into them but stop before bottoming out.

So you should have only one longer bolt for each side. Hope that makes sense.

View attachment 40653

Thank you for the detailed explanation. On 2013 212x all 3 holes are screw in bolts and you just screw the other end to the bolt that protrudes out the other side. Out of the 6 bolts only 1 seems to be bit longer than the others. Not a huge deal but happened to notice it as I was putting the tower up.
 
I towed 800km with the tower down with zero issues. I personally like that there is a LOT less sway, especially with my tower speakers hanging up there. When we got back home, I put the tower up and towed it to our marina, 100km the following day. It is very clear that there is more sway with the tower up, so I will continue this for longer trips.

I ended up replacing my top knobs with stainless bolts/nylocks because one of my knobs actually detached from its bolt.... that is; it came loose inside so I could never fully tighten it. With the SS bolt/nylock, I can get the top very tight and it never comes loose.

 
I leave it up for short trips, but when I hauled it back from Florida I lowered it and used the "travel" brackets. Hoped it would be a bit less drag.
 
Current boat/tower, leave tower up with bimini removed. Yes, power washing bugs off speakers and such is nec'y after 2K back and forth to FL, from VA (for Bimini)-
Frankly, I am impressed with the current tower and massive bimini. I was thinking that the road trip to FL and trip across the Gulf Stream would expose some weakness. Haven't found it yet....still looking.
 
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