Well it Finally Happened to Me - The 2010 Oil issue

[rkluck]

I have always been the one to state I never had the oil issue that was common in the 2010s. We took the boat out Saturday and I saw oil! I looked and the port side engine third bolt down the sheared off. No cracks in the housing.

My plan is to get with my dealer and see if they will do anything (doubt it) and then get a new bolt (2) and new gaskets. Take the old one off, use a pipe wrench or something to unscrew the broken bolt and put it back together with the new bolt. I will go ahead and pull the other bolt out and put a new one in there as well. I need to change the oil anyway.

Anyone have issues unscrewing the broken bolt out once the housing was moved out of the way?

Good news is I won't keep worrying that this problem will appear some day. Also, it is not summer!

 

[ar240owner]

Post the fix with picks !!!

 

[GiddYupJoe]

Anyone have issues unscrewing the broken bolt out once the housing was moved out of the way?

From the other oil cooler thread..."Fix - they removed the oil cooler and put into a hot water bath so the aluminum oil cooler would expand (metal bolt so it's unaffected) and they took a screwdriver and were able to get it out easily".

 

[rkluck]

Thanks - I thought (not having taken it off yet) the bolt went all the way through the cooler but sounds like it doesn't.

 

[jfkraus]

1. Remove the oil cooler by taking out the three larger bolts. Don't worry about the small bolts yet.
2. Disconnecting the hoses is a challenge due to accessibility. There are three hoses, one of which is hard to see. The hose clamps are tough if you don't have the proper tool (as I didn't).
3. After you remove the oil cooler it's easier to separate the pieces. There are four small bolts on the back of the cooler that are very hard if not impossible to get to unless you remove the cooler.
4. The Drill-Out Micro Power Extractor is a great tool! It made removing the sheared off bolt super easy.
5. Putting the oil cooler back on was easy except reconnecting the hoses because of the hose clamps. Be careful to not over-torque the bolts!

 

[rkluck]

Thanks this is very helpful. Do you recall what type of clamps were used (water pump clamps [squeeze] or screwed clamps)? So you couldn't;t just grab the broken stub and twist it out? Thanks again for sharing your experience and knowledge!

 

[jfkraus]

Thanks this is very helpful. Do you recall what type of clamps were used (water pump clamps [squeeze] or screwed clamps)? So you couldn't;t just grab the broken stub and twist it out? Thanks again for sharing your experience and knowledge!

I used these:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4502-Hose-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B000I1KJT8
http://www.amazon.com/Alden-1007P-P...id=1454440163&sr=8-1&keywords=alden+drill+out

I had to use the drillout because the bolt sheered off flush with the housing.

 

[rkluck]

Thanks Again!

 

[rkluck]

My dealer is great (Park Marine in Kennesaw GA). I will bring them the boat next weekend. The will fix this for what the oil change costs and they will replace the other bolt as well. He is going to try to get Yamaha to cover the whole thing as well. he said if they do he will use the new cooler. I buy all my oil and filters from them anyway! They will go ahead and replace the reverse surge solenoid on the trailer for $40 too! Since they are not busy it will be ready by the following Saturday. They would have picked the boat up for me but the boat is at the lake house almost two hours away (Hartwell) they always did when I was docked at Allatoona!. I can't complain. I am so busy this works out great!