XR1800 4-Stroke MR1 Swap

[Robb235]

cool... I just pulled the pump off my donor jet ski (2006 FX HO Cruiser) if you want any of the trim/steering/nozzle parts i can send them to you... Im only interested in the shaft, impeller and stator housing.

I think I'm good, I think I pulled everything needed off of my donor skis.

@2kwik4u would probably be interested. He was asking me in another thread if I was interested in parting with the parts I pulled of my donor ski.

 

[2kwik4u]

I think I'm good, I think I pulled everything needed off of my donor skis.

@2kwik4u would probably be interested. He was asking me in another thread if I was interested in parting with the parts I pulled of my donor ski.

I could be talked into the trim parts. Shoot me a price on the package and what you have in hand.

Looking to duplicate this:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/adjustable-trim-and-directional-reverse-bucket-install.17569/

 

[84rzv500r]

these parts are all off a 2006 FX Cruiser HO anniversary edition... if they will work for you, pay for the shipping and they're yours.. im keeping the shaft, stator housing and impeller and the rest is up for grabs... I'll start a thread in the WTB/WTS area when I get ready...

 

[Hoppy]

The big thing stopping me from adapting the trim system onto my boat has been how do I actually control the trim? I've been trying to brainstorm ideas, everything from some sort of locking shift lever, to electric motors to control the trim ring of the nozzles.

The jet skis used the QSTS or "quick shift trim system" if I recall. You pull a "trigger" then set the trim by twisting the left handle bar, similar to how you twist the throttle. Releasing the trigger locks the trim in place, either -10, -5, 0, +5, or +10 degrees of nozzle angle. I don't have handle bars, so adapting the QSTS doesn't appear to be an option.

There's another thread on here where I believe the guy used a trim tab actuator to control the the trim of the nozzles. I think he had the actuators in hand already, so it didn't cost him anything to use them to control the nozzle trim. I'm not sure how much effect trimming the nozzles will have on the XR1800, so I'm looking to keep this conversion low budget. Trim tab actuators are a little pricier than what I want to spend.

After doing some research, I learned that some Seadoo boats came with what's called Variable Trim System, or VTS. It looks like an electric motor either pulls or pushes on the trim ring in the nozzle. It might seem a bit taboo to use Seadoo parts on a Yamaha, but I think adapting their electric trim motor might be the best option to controlling the trim system adapted to a jet boat.

Certainly open to any ideas if anyone has any.

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The seadoo VTS was not very reliable atlest the early ones the reed switches on the control board that is mounted to the motor housing failed frequently causing the motor and or the gauge to not work. It would be a good idea to make sure the one you have works properly. I had to fix the system on my 95 seadoo xp I made a writeup here https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/vts-mod.65772/ There is an aftermarket fix that is buy able called the trim fix I don't know much about it but here is the link https://www.thetrimfix.com/

 

[Robb235]

Found a gas leak over Memorial Day weekend. Was starting up each engine and letting it run on the hose in preparation to start this year's boating season. Started smelling gas, and found that the fuel hose from the top of my fuel pump assembly to the fuel pressure regulator was disintegrating. The inside of the hose was turning to goo and leaking fuel. Quite disappointed, as it was fuel injection hose that should have been able to last more than a year. Replaced the fuel hose, and had a great outing last weekend pulling people on the tube. Still loving these 4-strokes.

One thing I really need to address is the throw of the throttle levers. The throttle levers go to about 75% and the MR1 throttle plates are WOT. I haven't let anyone else drive the boat out of fear that someone will ram the throttle levers all the way forward and accidently break the throttle cables.

 

[84rzv500r]

I ordered 2006 AR230 throttle cables and made a bout a 1" cable adjuster (like the adjuster on a motorcycle handlebar) and then split some nuts for locknuts... i think its in my thread... the ratio didn't change (thou you could by moving the lever end closer to the pivot) but it addressed the throw by moving it a little more up in the lever range... and I do concur that the throttles are NOW...

I picked up another boat 2005 Pathfinder DV 2300 with twin F200 yamahas so I haven't been slaving over the AR210... its on the list to find out what broke in the stbd gear reduction after 76 hours of flawless running...

 

[Robb235]

I ordered 2006 AR230 throttle cables and made a bout a 1" cable adjuster (like the adjuster on a motorcycle handlebar) and then split some nuts for locknuts... i think its in my thread... the ratio didn't change (thou you could by moving the lever end closer to the pivot) but it addressed the throw by moving it a little more up in the lever range... and I do concur that the throttles are NOW...

I picked up another boat 2005 Pathfinder DV 2300 with twin F200 yamahas so I haven't been slaving over the AR210... its on the list to find out what broke in the stbd gear reduction after 76 hours of flawless running...

Yeah, for some reason the ratio is different on mine. Push the throttle levers to about 3/4 and the MR-1 engines are WOT, and I can feel the levers tugging on the cables. Must be one of those odd ball differences between the 1200 PV motors and the non-PV motors. To fix I would need to move the cable ends closer to the pivot point. It's been a while since I looked a it, but as I recall mine are already sitting in the closet slot to the pivot. So that leaves me with either making a some sort of custom brackets, or just living with it. I'm leaning towards just living with it.

 

[Robb235]

So the boat has done well this season, with the exception of having a low top speed. The boat was never that fast with the original 66V 1200PV motors, and with the MR-1 HO motors I'm only hitting 40mph. I'm at least the third owner of this boat, and I don't think the jet pumps have ever been serviced, so I suspect they are the culprits.

So now that the kids are back in school, I've got my pumps off and taken apart, along with some 13/19 Solas Concord impellers to install. Plan to reseal everything in the pump tunnel with some 3M 4200. My impeller to wear ring clearance was just above 0.6mm, so just outside of spec. Upon tear down, the stock impellers are in surprisingly good shape. The stock wear ring has some deformation and bubbling. So new wear ring is in order. I know this can be a hot topic, but I'm getting wear rings with plastic inserts. I like the idea of replacing a cheap plastic insert over an expensive impeller housing. I also like the idea of the impellers wearing into the plastic wear ring to create a tighter gap between impeller and ring.

 

[Robb235]

Starting season #3 with the MR-1 swapped XR1800.