Yamaha AR190 Transom Removal

[Fred8158]

Help..please!
I have spent so much time looking for a post, video, instructions, etc on how to remove the transom plate so I can to install a new one...I am replacing all of the jet pump housings since I was an idiot and left it, season after season, in the water, and now that they are all oxidized....now I am getting cavitation. I was able to remove and separate everything, but the transom plate...the bolts just spin without coming out
Thanks in advance!!

 

[Scottintexas]

Where are located
You shouldn't have to remove the plate
Cavitation probably csn be solved with the original parts
Picture of your impeller and pumps would help

 

[swatski]

Help..please!
I have spent so much time looking for a post, video, instructions, etc on how to remove the transom plate so I can to install a new one...I am replacing all of the jet pump housings since I was an idiot and left it, season after season, in the water, and now that they are all oxidized....now I am getting cavitation. I was able to remove and separate everything, but the transom plate...the bolts just spin without coming out
Thanks in advance!!

Not many here dealt with that, there are a couple of good writeups on greenhulk - sealing the transom plate.

Here is from the service manual:

 

[Fred8158]

I’m located in NY.... kept in on Lake Mahopac and the Hudson River (brackish water)
I will send pics of what it looks like and why I feel it needs to be changed
Looking a the service manual, I cannot get access to the nuts?
And....Thanks so much for your replies

 

[Fred8158]

I’m located in NY.... kept in on Lake Mahopac and the Hudson River (brackish water)
I will send pics of what it looks like and why I feel it needs to be changed
Looking a the service manual, I cannot get access to the nuts?
And....Thanks so much for your replies

 

[Fred8158]

Here are the pictures, if you look closely you can see all the pitting

 

[swatski]

Here are the pictures, if you look closely you can see all the pitting

Looks pretty bad, but you can probably save it.
This thread has some pics and tips on pump "porting", and you could use some epoxy paint to smooth things out:

It is a dirty job. After few hours I had both pumps/transom rings prepped.
This is what I started with - not bad, yet, but time to clean up. Looking from the rear - with a pump pulled out:
View attachment 91506

Here is the same side after I was done cleaning it up - pretty much all the white stuff left is MarineTex from last year, all factory black crap and my 5200 is gone:
View attachment 91507
View attachment 91508

I decided to go with Bondo (poly resin) high bonding formula, it is excellent for this kind of jobs - bind really well and it is fairly convenient to apply (as far as those things go):
View attachment 91510

This is the can:
View attachment 91511

And the rest is... history, lol. Just freaking sanding. Hours of sanding.
I rely on simple tools, perhaps a flapper wheel would be better but my adapter took a dive so I used what I had, and a bunch of curved sanding blocks (or what fun):
View attachment 91512

This is the finished tunnel, I finished in 120 sand paper (I think):
View attachment 91516

Here is the other side (a look through the intake - with intake grates removed):
View attachment 91514

Not perfect but SO MUCH better. Hope this holds for more than a season!

I then just slapped new (unmodified) intake grates. Done.
View attachment 91515

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With the 4 bolts holding the transom plate, need to access the nuts on the bikge side, pretty tough but doable without messing with the intermediate bearing, I think. There are a couple of good posts on greenhulk - its in jet skis but the pump is very smiliar.

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[Fred8158]

You guys are great,
I just looked at these quick because I am working, but I already bought the parts, cost me about $400 which I thought was a decent investment but I was just afraid of taking off the transom plate..or MI will just try to repair that as you recommend and either keep the plate or return it unless somebody is interested in it LOL
Do I need to put anything between each ring? Caulk, lube, etc.?
Thanks!

 

[swatski]

You guys are great,
I just looked at these quick because I am working, but I already bought the parts, cost me about $400 which I thought was a decent investment but I was just afraid of taking off the transom plate..or MI will just try to repair that as you recommend and either keep the plate or return it unless somebody is interested in it LOL
Do I need to put anything between each ring? Caulk, lube, etc.?
Thanks!

I would go heavy on the transom plate - most would use 3M 5200 between the plate and the transom as it is a one time job.
In between the other segments/wear ring/stator seg/venturing nozzle - nothing, or blue RV silicone, or permatex silicone based gasket maker, or similar.

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[Scottintexas]

Well at least your impeller looks really good,

Cavitation is a very vague word, what sort of symptoms were you experiencing?

If your thought is to change everything you'll need to change the intake grate and intake duct since the water travels over it and can be "disturbed" before the impeller,



I'm with Swatski, I've never seen pitting/corrosion cause cavitation, did you measure the impeller clearance before you removed it, maybe you just need a new liner?

I just ask this because taking that transom plate of will be a job and getting the intake duct to let go can also be a bear,

you may want to check you impeller cone bearings for water intrusion while you have it apart

 

[Julian]

I would never put 5200 on something you MIGHT ever have to remove again...unless you want a headache. The image from the service manaual says use "sealant (1)" which if the rest of the page were there, we'd know what the manufacturer spec is...but probably silicon caulk - the same they use in the intake tunnel.

What do your anodes look like? Have they been replaced?

 

[swatski]

I would never put 5200 on something you MIGHT ever have to remove again...unless you want a headache. The image from the service manaual says use "sealant (1)" which if the rest of the page were there, we'd know what the manufacturer spec is...but probably silicon caulk - the same they use in the intake tunnel.

What do your anodes look like? Have they been replaced?

Well, that's what greenhulk (Jerry Gaddis) recommends to use to seal the transom plate, he and others have posted threads on this - sealing the transom plate. They also fill any voids with epoxy to make everything fit tight (and flat). We are talking the space between the transom plate and transom. I can not imagine doing it twice in the same boat unless things really fall apart.
I would NOT use anything like 5200 between the other segments that may require more frequent disassembly, of course, hence blue RV silicone or similar.

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[Beachbummer]

I bet 30 minutes with the finest steel wool and some barkeepers best friend cleaner makes everything look brand spanking new. If not, best of luck on the replacement.

 

[swatski]

I would never put 5200 on something you MIGHT ever have to remove again...unless you want a headache. The image from the service manaual says use "sealant (1)" which if the rest of the page were there, we'd know what the manufacturer spec is...but probably silicon caulk - the same they use in the intake tunnel.

What do your anodes look like? Have they been replaced?

Here you go:

Tip of the day: Transom plate sealing and truing

You guys that are having cavitation issues might want to reseal your transom plates. When I pulled the transom plate off I found a 1" wide section at the very top that had no sealant whatsoever. I know of at least 4 other skis that had this same issue. Clean the old silicone off of the hull...

greenhulk.net

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[swatski]

I bet 30 minutes with the finest steel wool and some barkeepers best friend cleaner makes everything look brand spanking new. If not, best of luck on the replacement.

I think that's optimistic. The cone/wear ring etc is pitted to $hit...
I would think an epoxy coating such as Belzona might help, as that is what they designed it for. Otherwise I would get new parts or expect inferior performance.

I got the Belzona "supermetalglide" kit, sanding tools, and radiator brushes ready to go for round 2 of pump porting.
If we could only get the rain so stop...
View attachment 93863

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[Fred8158]

Wow! Love this!
Starting with my thoughts of capitation, I'm doing at least 6000 RPMs and barely hitting 15 mph with four people on the boat when I was able to do at least 30 to 35 with six people on the boat, and one water skiing.... never can get above 35 mph even alone, which I always questioned. I'm not sure if you could see in the picture of the transom that it looks like it was never centered properly on the boat from day one not sure if that was an issue. I bought it brand new
All spark plugs have been changed, obviously oil change and air filter. The only other issue which I'm not sure if this even comes into play, is the gas has been in there for over a year but it was treated, due to the fact that I never took the boat out last year because of the crappy spring we had
Wear ring and the impeller good, Iintake grate looks good.... but after it goes through the intake grate where the transom is, it looks like maybe a little bit of silicone is either missing or hanging, will check and try to get more pictures ...not sure if that could be an issue? But I do realize that I made a big mistake by leaving it in the water through our season in New York, wish there was a way to make a different material that would not pit
For all four plates it cost me $400 which I kind of realize I may not be able to get the transom plate off so I can return that so in a not shell it's $300 worth of investment compared to trying to clean the rest of it but I will have no choice but to do that to the transom plate since I'm not going to attempt to take it off after listening to your reccomendations!
Thanks!

 

[swatski]

For all four plates it cost me $400 which I kind of realize I may not be able to get the transom plate off so I can return that so in a not shell it's $300 worth of investment compared to trying to clean the rest of it but I will have no choice but to do that to the transom plate since I'm not going to attempt to take it off after listening to your reccomendations!
Thanks!

Well that's the beauty of Yamaha jet boats. NO WOOD in the transom, the hull and transom are all one FRP shell which is (almost) impervious to water intrusion. In a different boat with a "cored" hull you would be looking at a full transom rebuild...!

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[Fred8158]

I can't wait to get home and pour myself a martini and read everything thoroughly that you guys have been sending
Anyway to answer one of the questions regarding the anode, it was at least 80% eaten away and I already changed it this season...... live and learn !!

 

[Scottintexas]

.... but after it goes through the intake grate where the transom is, it looks like maybe a little bit of silicone is either missing or hanging, will check and try to get more pictures ...not sure if that could be an issue?

do you feel any unusual vibrations/sound? do you have any hole shot up to 15 mph or is it just a crawl to 15 and never above?

if you even think you have a silicone issue I would address that first, loose silicone may look ok but once suction starts happening it pulls it away from the hull letting air in,
see my problem/fix here

https://jetboaters.net/threads/cavitation-missing-sealant-in-pump-grate.884/

I could definitely see air intrusion causing your problem more than pitting,


.

 

[Fred8158]

Out of the hole it's perfectly fine, just can't get above 15 mph
I'm going to double check the caulk,,,, which is the best I should be using? Should I remove it completely and then re-caulk or just patch?
You may have this covered in the link you sent me but again I'm still at work and cannot do that until tonight