Yamaha Engine Behavior

[tdonoughue]

Yes, exactly. All around the intake. And it was exactly like the finish being half off that I noticed. All of that is going to cause turbulation in the water stream that will degrade performance. Not tragically, but little by little. Each bit will have a cumulative effect. If you pull the pump from the back, you can reach all the way up to the intake grate. Or you can pull the grate, but I would do the pump side. Then it is a lot of work with caulk and your finger, filling in the pitted areas and smoothing things out. Then do the outside of the grate--all of those bolts get filled in and smoothed over. And I would try a thin layer to try to smooth out the finish issues. That may not last, but any bit you get will make your speed and acceleration better.

 

[djtech2k]

Ok. I am unfamiliar with what you are talking about pulling the pump so I will have to search for that.

It seems crazy that little textures like that could cause an issue and it seems like it would be hard to prevent it, especially when it’s under the boat. I am not fond of being under the boat but I will try to get back under there and fill in any non smooth surface and try to scrape off the stuff from the hull/channel to the impeller. I’ll search for the pulling from the back of the pump or whatever.

 

[tdonoughue]

Ah, here you go: https://jetboaters.net/faq/#faq-26 That is the one on pulling your pumps.

If you don't like being under the boat, start with the pumps and do all you can from that end. Much easier sitting behind the boat than underneath.

It is not that you have to get every spot. It is just that the more spots you get and the smoother that is, the better your performance. Would not blame you if you didn't tackle all of the spots where the coating is coming off of the grate. Obviously, the exposed bolts are going to cause much more than those little spots. And the gaps inside the tube if not filled will also cause more of an issue. Equally fine to decide you don't want to mess with it (but then don't throttle up all the way on startup--ease your way up to avoid cavitation)--it just degrades your performance.

 

[djtech2k]

Below are some notes I have taken regarding part numbers and links. Prices were from the off season. You should also be able to source the plugs at a local auto parts store...

replacing them requires a ratchet, I believe a 3-6 inch extension, a 10MM socket and a spark plug socket (can pick up at local auto parts store). Each plug will take you 1-2 minutes. Some suggest costing the threads on the plug with anti-seize. Don’t over torque when you replace.

process is remove retaining bolt (believe this is 10MM),pull boot out, remove old plug, thread new plug and reverse the process.


2012 SX210 Oil Change Kit
LUB-WTRCG-KT-00
$27.99 From Yahama x2

OEM Filter ~$15
YAMAHA 5GH-13440-20-00

K&N

https://www.amazon.com/KN-303-Motorcycle-Powersports-Performance-Filter/dp/B000E2CVIS?ref_=mw_olp_product_details

Plugs NGK CR9EB x8

NGK 6955 Spark Plug | Shop Now at RockAuto

NGK Ignition Parts and More for Your Vehicle at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

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I am going to start buying the oil change/plugs/winterizing stuff just in case I decide to do it myself.

The oil change kit comes with the oil filter and oil. I assume the K&N you list is an air filter. I already bought those plugs. I guess I will need an oil extractor. I see there’s a Yamaha brand and others. Any opinions on which is best? For me, ease of use and least mess would be nice but of course I need it to work lol.

For winterizing, I guess I just need that fog? I assume I change the plugs before storing for winter. Do the plugs need gapped or anything or is it just a screw it in and done?

 

[djtech2k]

Ah, here you go: https://jetboaters.net/faq/#faq-26 That is the one on pulling your pumps.

If you don't like being under the boat, start with the pumps and do all you can from that end. Much easier sitting behind the boat than underneath.

It is not that you have to get every spot. It is just that the more spots you get and the smoother that is, the better your performance. Would not blame you if you didn't tackle all of the spots where the coating is coming off of the grate. Obviously, the exposed bolts are going to cause much more than those little spots. And the gaps inside the tube if not filled will also cause more of an issue. Equally fine to decide you don't want to mess with it (but then don't throttle up all the way on startup--ease your way up to avoid cavitation)--it just degrades your performance.

Understood. Up in that tunnel area it is very rough with all kinds of stuff on the fiberglass. My pics in this thread show it a bit. It’s hard to get to for sure and not sure how easy it will be to come off. The grates have that black finish that seems to be peeling/falling off. Should I put silicone there too?

 

[tdonoughue]

For the oil extractor, I just went to Amazon and got a well-rated one. It's not fancy, but it works fine.

Plugs come pre-gapped and generally do not need regapping. Probably a good idea to check them, but after years I have never found one off, so I don't even bother any more (I'm bad--don't be like me). I just pop them in.

Very rough does not sound very good. It should be basically smooth, unless someone sucked something up there that did a bunch of damage. Do take pics of that when you get into it. Remember: that is why you are using the silicone caulk--to smooth things out. So if you can't scrape it off, if you can at least put caulk around it to smooth it you will be doing better. But that path should be smooth fiberglass with some gaps that are filled with silicone.

As to the black finish, that is what I was referring to that you might want to just leave and see if you can get by with it. Do the bolts; leave the black finish for now. I bet you still have a big difference without messing with it.

 

[VitaminSea]

The oil change kit comes with the oil filter and oil. I assume the K&N you list is an air filter.

Correct, the oil change kit comes with the filter. I ended up going the bulk route, and purchased ~4 gallons of oil, as I found a good deal. I also favor K&N oil filters, hence the K&N filter part number. As @tdonoughue mentioned, any oil extractor should work for you, just read the reviews. Between the two engines, you’ll extract ~ 4.2-4.4 qts.

 

[djtech2k]

So I am looking for the oil extractor pump. I see several with the pump handle, and some of those that will work pneumatic. I also see some electric ones. Has anyone used any of the electric ones or even pneumatic ones? For example, I saw this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W54170-Extraction-Automotive/dp/B00R8FIYFS/ref=sr_1_9?crid=OPZF4IWY0CR4&dchild=1&keywords=oil%2Bextractor%2Bpump%2Bmarine&qid=1599660737&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=oil%2Bextract%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-9&th=1

Just curious if stuff like this is good or if the pump handle ones are the way to go. I see that the pump handled ones have a reservoir for the oil and ones like above do not. Any experience with these things? This may be a stupid question, but if you have a reservoir in it, how do you get the oil out and get rid of it?

 

[VitaminSea]

Here’s the one I purchased. Believe they now have a newer model now. The top has a large cap to ensure the oil stays in the reservoir, allowing for transport to recycle. Simply uncap and pour out. Also when extracting the oil, once you get suction there is no needed to continue to pump, takes maybe 5 mins to extract the oil in each engine.

Amazon.com: EWK Pneumatic/Manual 6.5 Liter Oil Changer Vacuum Fluid Extractor Pump Tank Remover + Storage Unit + Sealing Cap: Automotive

Buy EWK Pneumatic/Manual 6.5 Liter Oil Changer Vacuum Fluid Extractor Pump Tank Remover + Storage Unit + Sealing Cap: Fluid Evacuators - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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I considered something similar to what you linked to, but from my research it appeared more individuals preferred this type of extractor, and I also figured there was no motor to worry about malfunctioning. The one you linked to would probably work, as long as the tub is rather “firm”, as you will want to be able to “fish around” in the oil reservoir and find the low spot to ensure you are getting as much of the oil out as you can.

 

[djtech2k]

I just went ahead and ordered this one. The reviews looked good. I was considering ordering the Yamaha one, but went with this one instead. Hopefully its a good choice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD64H8Z/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also ordered (2) oil change kits and a couple of those drain plugs. The part number is the whole assembly, which looks different than waht I see on my boat, but hopefully the plug is the same.