ripler
Jetboaters Captain
- Messages
- 931
- Reaction score
- 1,368
- Points
- 237
- Location
- Just south of Pittsburgh
- Boat Make
- MasterCraft
- Year
- 2021
- Boat Model
- Other
- Boat Length
- 20
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I just have it hooked to one battery with going thru the switches so I will find out tonight after I get home. If I can swap oy up there I will because I want my boat wiring to be correct and not have to relabel.Jerry, if you can,open that controller box between the panels and see how it's wired there. Or at least snap a pic for future reference. I've come across many solar panels hooked up to a controller incorrectly at work over the years. Usually just swap em to the correct position and good to go. If you're now charging correctly though after you swapped the cables at the battery you probably found the problem already.
So what are the wires labeled and where were they connected?So checked the battery after work today.
View attachment 63363
So YES it is chaging now!
Went up top and pulled the cover
View attachment 63364
So I swapped the positive and negative lead and hooked everything back up. When the starter battery wasn't hooked up the red light was blinking indicating it was charging the house battery and when I hooked up the starter battery it went off indicating it was charging the starter battery. All is right in the world again and I can get some sleep now.
Is it possible this is indeed a systematic issue with the solar panel setup (similar to what was the sys/aux voltage display bug)? We have heard about solar panel issues for two years now so who knows, it could be.
In which case it would be a good example of a systemic problem there.
But who cares. If you subscribe to Yamaha legal theory of fixing mechanical issues - it's all good.
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I haven't did a search on solar panel issues, but if Yamaha isn't using some type of solar controllers you are going to have issues with charging the batteries and possibly the onboard electronics. From the photos the box between the panels is just a junction box. Not knowing the specs on the solar panels, they may have some type of controller built it, but I doubt that is the case since they are paralleling the panels and one of the photos is showing over. One of the earlier photos showed that the panels were putting out over 17 volts, this is way too much. A solar controller will control the voltage output to the batteries to keep them from being overcharged. The other issue I see, and it's the biggest issue, from what I'm reading the wires from the junction box are going directly to the batteries, so if your panels are putting out over 17 volts all of your electronics are getting that same voltage which they may not be designed for. I have done a lot of 24VDC solar panel designs for gas well sites and most of the electronics that we use can only tolerate 30VDC without failing.
The sp1 I think was behind the start battery switch on the wall, the g1 was on the starter battery.So what are the wires labeled and where were they connected?
Would love a picture of the canopy!Went to start the boat this weekend after it sitting in my driveway all week in the direct sun ( I didn't put it in my canopy because I knew we were going out this weekend ) and it was slow starting! Is there any way to unplug the panels to test and see and then move down the line? I did check to see if there was a fuse and there was, it had power from both sides so I knew it was good also. My red light on my DSVR isn't red like I have read on other posts.
@Mainah ??? You seem to know the electrical system on these boats quite well.
What view would you like?Would love a picture of the canopy!
Or that is how 2016 models were wired, and the manual hasn't been updated to show they moved it to the other side of the switch....And "only when in the on position" is wrong also. Mine was wired to the battery side so they were always charging.