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I am going to look at the panels tonight and see if I can find a name on them so I can see if they have a built in controller or not. Thanks for all of the feedback everyone!! That controller that @Mainah posted is cheap enough to just put inline if I needed to.
I store mine in the water a few mintutes down the road at a marina. It is not a covered marina so uncovering and covering everytime
out is a real PIA. Also lake gas is $4/gal vs $2/gal on land so to make using the boat more economical we cart VIP jugs to the boat. When I was up in Maine I stored it in my backyard with a cover and had it shrink wrapped over the tower for winter. Shrink wrapping alone will run you $300/yr or more so perhaps that oversized garage door is looking better again.
So here are the solar panels on the 242X. They do not have a built in controller. I guess I know what is next on the mod list. On a positive note, I went out to the boat last night and both batteries were sitting pretty at 12.76 volts and the DSVR red light was on indicating charging the house battery.
So one of the selling features on the flagship boat was both designed wrong (no controller) and installed wrong (reverse polarity). This is going to affect the batteries. I wonder if this is also causing the gps speed control issues when out on the water in full sun by suppling too much voltage. The 10 amp controller that I posted earlier will handle the load just fine as those are just 1 amp panels for a total of 2 amps. A 2.5 or 5 amp controller would work as well but I think 10 amp is more common and therefore cheaper.
So who is going to post the warning and a faq for all pre 2018 242 e/x owners to add a controller and check the polarity?
Who is still having those gos speed issues? I truly wonder if this fixes it.
So here are the solar panels on the 242X. They do not have a built in controller. I guess I know what is next on the mod list. On a positive note, I went out to the boat last night and both batteries were sitting pretty at 12.76 volts and the DSVR red light was on indicating charging the house battery.
Julian if you have a voltage drain I would HIGHLY recommend looking here.
So according to the manual I found on the net , as long as you are charging a battery rated 110 amp hours and above you will be OK, if you are charging a smaller battery you would need a charge controller. The other thing the manual says is that it has built in diodes, which prevents voltage travelling from the batteries to the panel when the panels aren't charging, this will prevent battery drainage. A couple of interesting things I found in the manual is that they recommend only using on deep cycle batteries and that they are low peak voltage panels only put out a maximum of 15.3 volts.
So these solar panels should be OK as long as you use deep cycle batteries and the panels are wired right.
The issue is that I bet nowhere does the manual tell you to use deep cycle batteries that are at least 110 amp hour.
Disclosure: I am not an EE, I don't have much experience with solar panels, and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
I get why the manaual says a comtroller is not needed. Application matters though and the e/x series have complex canbus systems. Canbus systems can be sensitive to volatge, particularly 2 wire communciation. I have a suspicion based upon the work that @jcyamaharider has done and the multiple canbus components that I know are on the boat that a controller is a good idea. That plus a 17 volt reading is certainly out of spec. If it were me I would install a controller.
You are saying that we have the GSP-12, 15.75"x 14", 15.3v. Did you measure your panels? I cant get to mine. Based on the voltage you read in your other post (17.68v) do we have the GSP-30, 22" x 20.5" ; 17.2v?
It is kind of crazy that this issue has only came into full discussion 2 years after the first model. I figured someone elsewhere would have found this issue by now. I cannot be the first.