battery calculator

[FloJet]

Haven't really look closely to where the remote is coming out of but I don't necessary always mean the connext. I say that just because it's the main hub. So really the remote blue wire not the one with blue/white coming out of the head unit.

First, amps have a remote built in them but they need a signal for that to work. Second if you have multiple amps and equipment, it's not a good idea for a head unit to turn all those on either remotely or by daisy chaining them. This can cause power burnout issues. So best way with multiple equipments would be for the Head Unit to turn on the remote relay, then the relay pushes power to tell the amps to turn on. HU remote wires no don't produce enough regulated power to turn on multiple equipment or not designed for that aleast. Sure it can do it but over time you run the risk of damaging your equipment.

My setup goes like this,

When I turn the connext system on, there is a delay for amps. Once Head unit sends remote signal to the relay, the relay turns on all my amps, fans, leds, and other equipment. This also helps when turning the system off. It guarantees no stray power to equipment while the connext is off. This helps to not hear that bad feedback/loop noise from subs when you the power everything off.

Hope this helps.

 

[FloJet]

I suppose it's all about amperage. Amps draw too much amperage to turn on. So if you running 2-3 amps, issues can arise as no Head units can produce the amperage/watts all the amps need to properly power on. Most common mistake some do is to daisy chain all the amps. Basically one amp telling the other amp to turn on. Not a good idea with high powered amps. Relays are the best way to go IMO for this purpose. 2 amps you can def get away with daisy chaining. 3 amps and it's at your risk.

 

[David Analog]

Most amplifier turn-on circuits will draw no more than 35 to 40 milliamps. The source unit circuits are generally rated for a minimum of a .4 amp draw, which is to say that you could safely run 3 to 4 amplifiers plus power a pre-level EQ and a BT module. However, I don't recommend it. The source unit on/off trigger circuit is driven by a transistor with limited dissipation. The circuit traces are extremely thin. A failure within this circuit is inordinately expensive to repair. So for any turn-on circuit greater than 2 to 3 amplifiers, a $7 relay is cheap insurance. Also, if the voltage does momentarily dip during starting, the relay threshold is far lower than the amplifier threshold and in some instances this will avoid unwanted off/on cycling of the amplifiers.

 

[FloJet]

Well said!

 

[swatski]

I think a relay is always recommended if more than one amp/whatever is turned on by the HU "power antenna" (blue wire) to prevent HU damage. Right?

EDIT: I obviously missed the ^^^ post.
--

 

[FloJet]

That's what I would do @swatski for peace of mind. Not always necessary but it's the safest route to take. Like @David Analog states $7 for safer route is just a no brainer lol.

 

[swatski]

That's what I would do @swatski for peace of mind. Not always necessary but it's the safest route to take. Like @David Analog states $7 for safer route is just a no brainer lol.

That is what I think, too.

--

 

[David Analog]

In any case, the circuit should be fused with the appropriate value. That ends the risk. Many Pros use a relay when amplifiers exceed two, and almost never use a relay with just one amplifier.

 

[MattFX4]

@FloJet can you post up a link to what relay you used. I am running 2 amps, but about to add a 3rd and a ws420 eq.

 

[FloJet]

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-332209150-Relay/dp/B0010AH6YM

Something like that. Can be picked up at most hardware stores, Autozone, Homedepot, ect.

 

[Jgorm]

I have a tip for all 6V users. CLEARLY label the wire in series as "do not use" on both ends near the terminals. I taped mine yellow when i had a 6v setup. Label the ground as 12v common ground and the + as 12V+. This will help prevent mix ups a couple years down the road when you hook something up and all you see is a mess of wires.

 

[patrickgrizz]

Tacking on as this seems to be the most recent 'battery' thread. I've been kind of dissatisfied with the stereo life i'm getting with my current setup. The previous owner installed a 2nd battery with isolater, and I finally got around to checking out the actual battery. it's only a Group 24 70amp/hrs, specifically the Exide Stowaway 24MDPST. I've got a 300watt amp driving 6 speakers right now. I get about 2-3 hours tops of engine-off playtime, and looking to get that more in the 5+ hour range. I believe the battery is taking a charge just fine, but probably need to take it in to get tested to be sure. I don't really want to mess with the maintenance on 2 6v batteries if I don't have to, as well as the safety of having sealed AGM batteries. So, my question is: would I be better served adding a second identical battery in parallel, or going up to a single Group 31. Going the single battery would be simpler as I wouldn't need to add another battery tray, but 2 of my currents will cost the same or less than a single larger battery when it does come time to replace.

 

[Jgorm]

It depends on how old the battery is, and how many times you drained the charge to make the amps shutoff.

 

[Bruce]

@patrickgrizz, adding a second Group 24 battery in parallel would give you 70 Ah of useable current. Switching to a 100Ah group 31 AGM battery would give you 50 Ah of useable current.

What kind of amplifier(s) are installed. If you do not have Class D amplifier(s) switching to Class D may give a larger runtime increase than adding a battery.

 

[patrickgrizz]

@patrickgrizz, adding a second Group 24 battery in parallel would give you 70 Ah of useable current. Switching to a 100Ah group 31 AGM battery would give you 50 Ah of useable current.

What kind of amplifier(s) are installed. If you do not have Class D amplifier(s) switching to Class D may give a larger runtime increase than adding a battery.

I'll have to check on my amp, though replacing and rewiring all that isn't something I would terribly look forward to. Right now if I can find space it seems like the easiest thing would be to just pick up another Group 24 70ah battery for like $70 and just wire them up in parallel. We shall see.

 

[Jgorm]

If your current battery had been run dead more than ten times, or is over 5 years old, adding another battery in parallel we'll be worse than replacing it with the same model.

 

[mark_m]

Reviving the dormant thread... where's the best place to source 6V high Amp Hour batteries to setup a rocking house setup? I'm pushing a JL 800/8 amp and I do have access to shore power for charging.

 

[FloJet]

Not sure what's in your area but anything like Batteries plus offer value 6v batteries. Each state varies in the distributor tho.

 

[mark_m]

Not sure what's in your area but anything like Batteries plus offer value 6v batteries. Each state varies in the distributor tho.

I’ll cross shop Costco and Batteries +

 

[FloJet]

Ok good deal. Call some local areas too