DVSR help...

[FSH 210 Sport]

After a long conversation with Dale (@FSH 210 Sport) I decided to order a Battle Born LiFePO4 battery to replace my aging Group 31 AGM house battery. I will be leaving my current AGM start battery in the boat as it works fine. My plan is to clip the red DVSR wire and connect it to one of the fuel pump hot wires. My conundrum is that I haven't accessed the fuel tank area yet so I'm not sure which of the fuel pump wires is the hot. On some boats there is a black and a blue wire in the harness so that's easy but I saw a fuel pump thread that showed what looked like a new connector but it did not show the wires going into the connector. So I'm looking for someone that has a boat of similar vintage to mine that has done this mod or has experience with the fuel pump wiring. My plan is to do this mod with the boat out of the water so I won't be able to start the engines to check voltage at the harness with a volt meter.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

The service manual has wiring diagrams with color codes for the wires.

 

[WiskyDan]

The service manual has wiring diagrams with color codes for the wires.

I think that you have to purchase the service manuals and they’re not cheap - I don’t have one. :-/

 

[WiskyDan]

So I was able to find the 240/242 service manual in an old thread (someone with a 2016 242LS) but you have to click on a separate link for each page which is time consuming:

LIT-18616-03-67
Index of /ebook/LIT-18616-03-67/files/mobile

I'm going to assume that the wiring for the fuel pump is the same on my boat as it is on a 2016 so they should still be blue (hot) and black (ground):



And "L" designates a "Blue" wire in Yamaha electrical prints:

 

[lazergeek]

The fuel pump should energize with ignition on to pressurize the line ahead of a start so you should be able to check with a multi meter to confirm.

 

[WiskyDan]

The fuel pump should energize with ignition on to pressurize the line ahead of a start so you should be able to check with a multi meter to confirm.

That is great info - thank you!! Any idea if it will energize momentarily or stay on long enough for me to get from the ignition key to the fuel pump connector with my volt meter?

 

[lazergeek]

That is great info - thank you!! Any idea if it will energize momentarily or stay on long enough for me to get from the ignition key to the fuel pump connector with my volt meter?

I believe its constant (I could be wrong) as the pump manages the line pressure to turn its self on /off as needed.

 

[WiskyDan]

Great - thanks again.

 

[WiskyDan]

I believe its constant (I could be wrong) as the pump manages the line pressure to turn its self on /off as needed.

It was not constant on my boat and I couldn't get to my volt meter fast enough once I turned the ignition key to find out just how long. I figured that the blue wire must be the hot so that's what I went with - all worked out well.

 

[WiskyDan]

So here is a semi-quick write up on my DVSR mod. I spliced into the port side fuel pump for my "run-hot" wire so that the DVSR is only energized when the engines are running. I looked around quite a bit for splice's and decided on Wago. They were a bit more expensive but are high quality and lever activated so easy to use. Since I didn't know what gauge wire was used for the fuel pump these connectors provide some flexibility as they accept 12-24 gauge and they do not have to all be the same gauge. I also bought some of the Wago gel filled waterproof splice housings for the splice into the fuel pump since it is under the floor and I wanted to be sure that it stays dry.

Inline splice for DVSR to fuel pump wire:



Three way splice for tapping into fuel pump hot:


Waterproof gel box for fuel pump splice connector:


Removed the DVSR assembly from battery compartment wall - five of the fasteners screwed into the wall and one was a long bolt with a nut on the end. There is a cover plate on the back of each of the four modules that need to be removed - they are just pressed on. I then straightened the red wire (looks more like pink) which can be seen in the lower left corner:


Based on the info that I've seen in this thread, the side of the wire that does not have power when the DVSR is energized is the one farthest away from the post with the red paint on it. I cut the wire in the middle and then attached a Wago splice to each wire just in case I picked the wrong one. I used the wire that is coming out of the bottom of the DVSR housing as the side that I will run to the fuel pump hot. The wire that is coming out of the side will only be used if I chose the wrong side which will make it easy to switch over. The post with the red paint can be seen just above the wire that is running out of the side of the DVSR housing:


Decided to use blue wire (I think it was 16 gauge) as it's consistent with the color that Yamaha uses for "hot" wires. I cut off a piece long enough to make it back to the fuel pump and connected it to the other end of the Wago splice:


Put the four cover plates back on and remounted the DVSR assembly.


Removed the floor panel that provides access to the gas tank and fuel pumps:


The port side fuel pump is on the right:


Disconnected the plug by pressing the right side of the harness - the release latch (red arrow) was stiff so I used a pliers to press on it which worked like a charm. I then stripped away the electrical tape and cut back the flexible wire channel that protects the two wires so I would have enough room for the splice.



Ran the blue wire back towards the rear of the battery compartment where a large hose pops through into the engine compartment, ran it along the top/rear of the engine compartment, and pulled it through the same opening as the fuel pump wires:






Cut the blue fuel pump wire - sorry it's blurry:


Stripped the insulation on both ends and placed them into the Wago splice connector:


Stripped the insulation back from the DVSR wire and placed it in the third position of the splice connector:


Placed the Wago connector inside the waterproof gel box and sealed it up:




I put the floor panel back on and tidied up the wiring with cable ties. Turned the start and house battery switches on and no red light on the DVSR. Started the engines and red light on DVSR came on so I chose the correct DVSR wire to connect to.

I hope this is helpful for those that want to do the same procedure even with some of the blurry photos.

I hate projects and am glad this one is over.

 

[sastocky]

So here is a semi-quick write up on my DVSR mod. I spliced into the port side fuel pump for my "run-hot" wire so that the DVSR is only energized when the engines are running. I looked around quite a bit for splice's and decided on Wago. They were a bit more expensive but are high quality and lever activated so easy to use. Since I didn't know what gauge wire was used for the fuel pump these connectors provide some flexibility as they accept 12-24 gauge and they do not have to all be the same gauge. I also bought some of the Wago gel filled waterproof splice housings for the splice into the fuel pump since it is under the floor and I wanted to be sure that it stays dry.

Inline splice for DVSR to fuel pump wire:
View attachment 221468


Three way splice for tapping into fuel pump hot:
View attachment 221469

Waterproof gel box for fuel pump splice connector:
View attachment 221470

Removed the DVSR assembly from battery compartment wall - five of the fasteners screwed into the wall and one was a long bolt with a nut on the end. There is a cover plate on the back of each of the four modules that need to be removed - they are just pressed on. I then straightened the red wire (looks more like pink) which can be seen in the lower left corner:
View attachment 221471

Based on the info that I've seen in this thread, the side of the wire that does not have power when the DVSR is energized is the one farthest away from the post with the red paint on it. I cut the wire in the middle and then attached a Wago splice to each wire just in case I picked the wrong one. I used the wire that is coming out of the bottom of the DVSR housing as the side that I will run to the fuel pump hot. The wire that is coming out of the side will only be used if I chose the wrong side which will make it easy to switch over. The post with the red paint can be seen just above the wire that is running out of the side of the DVSR housing:
View attachment 221472

Decided to use blue wire (I think it was 16 gauge) as it's consistent with the color that Yamaha uses for "hot" wires. I cut off a piece long enough to make it back to the fuel pump and connected it to the other end of the Wago splice:
View attachment 221474

Put the four cover plates back on and remounted the DVSR assembly.
View attachment 221473

Removed the floor panel that provides access to the gas tank and fuel pumps:
View attachment 221475

The port side fuel pump is on the right:
View attachment 221476

Disconnected the plug by pressing the right side of the harness - the release latch (red arrow) was stiff so I used a pliers to press on it which worked like a charm. I then stripped away the electrical tape and cut back the flexible wire channel that protects the two wires so I would have enough room for the splice.
View attachment 221480
View attachment 221478

Ran the blue wire back towards the rear of the battery compartment where a large hose pops through into the engine compartment, ran it along the top/rear of the engine compartment, and pulled it through the same opening as the fuel pump wires:
View attachment 221481

View attachment 221482

View attachment 221484

Cut the blue fuel pump wire - sorry it's blurry:
View attachment 221485

Stripped the insulation on both ends and placed them into the Wago splice connector:
View attachment 221487

Stripped the insulation back from the DVSR wire and placed it in the third position of the splice connector:
View attachment 221488

Placed the Wago connector inside the waterproof gel box and sealed it up:
View attachment 221489

View attachment 221490

I put the floor panel back on and tidied up the wiring with cable ties. Turned the start and house battery switches on and no red light on the DVSR. Started the engines and red light on DVSR came on so I chose the correct DVSR wire to connect to.

I hope this is helpful for those that want to do the same procedure even with some of the blurry photos.

I hate projects and am glad this one is over.

I’ve never used these WAGO products but they look like they are a nice product. I’ll give them a shot.

I typically use a heat shrink solder connector and then put a second layer of heat shrink overtop. But, these look like a convenient alternative, especially with the cell filled box.

 

[WiskyDan]

I’ve never used these WAGO products but they look like they are a nice product. I’ll give them a shot.

I typically use a heat shrink solder connector and then put a second layer of heat shrink overtop. But, these look like a convenient alternative, especially with the cell filled box.

They worked pretty well - I’m not skilled with solder.

 

[okula225]

Silly question, do you still have a 2 gauge negative wire to connect the LiFEPo4 house and the Lead Acid starter battery?

 

[BigCal45]

So here is a semi-quick write up on my DVSR mod. I spliced into the port side fuel pump for my "run-hot" wire so that the DVSR is only energized when the engines are running. I looked around quite a bit for splice's and decided on Wago. They were a bit more expensive but are high quality and lever activated so easy to use. Since I didn't know what gauge wire was used for the fuel pump these connectors provide some flexibility as they accept 12-24 gauge and they do not have to all be the same gauge. I also bought some of the Wago gel filled waterproof splice housings for the splice into the fuel pump since it is under the floor and I wanted to be sure that it stays dry.

Inline splice for DVSR to fuel pump wire:
View attachment 221468


Three way splice for tapping into fuel pump hot:
View attachment 221469

Waterproof gel box for fuel pump splice connector:
View attachment 221470

Removed the DVSR assembly from battery compartment wall - five of the fasteners screwed into the wall and one was a long bolt with a nut on the end. There is a cover plate on the back of each of the four modules that need to be removed - they are just pressed on. I then straightened the red wire (looks more like pink) which can be seen in the lower left corner:
View attachment 221471

Based on the info that I've seen in this thread, the side of the wire that does not have power when the DVSR is energized is the one farthest away from the post with the red paint on it. I cut the wire in the middle and then attached a Wago splice to each wire just in case I picked the wrong one. I used the wire that is coming out of the bottom of the DVSR housing as the side that I will run to the fuel pump hot. The wire that is coming out of the side will only be used if I chose the wrong side which will make it easy to switch over. The post with the red paint can be seen just above the wire that is running out of the side of the DVSR housing:
View attachment 221472

Decided to use blue wire (I think it was 16 gauge) as it's consistent with the color that Yamaha uses for "hot" wires. I cut off a piece long enough to make it back to the fuel pump and connected it to the other end of the Wago splice:
View attachment 221474

Put the four cover plates back on and remounted the DVSR assembly.
View attachment 221473

Removed the floor panel that provides access to the gas tank and fuel pumps:
View attachment 221475

The port side fuel pump is on the right:
View attachment 221476

Disconnected the plug by pressing the right side of the harness - the release latch (red arrow) was stiff so I used a pliers to press on it which worked like a charm. I then stripped away the electrical tape and cut back the flexible wire channel that protects the two wires so I would have enough room for the splice.
View attachment 221480
View attachment 221478

Ran the blue wire back towards the rear of the battery compartment where a large hose pops through into the engine compartment, ran it along the top/rear of the engine compartment, and pulled it through the same opening as the fuel pump wires:
View attachment 221481

View attachment 221482

View attachment 221484

Cut the blue fuel pump wire - sorry it's blurry:
View attachment 221485

Stripped the insulation on both ends and placed them into the Wago splice connector:
View attachment 221487

Stripped the insulation back from the DVSR wire and placed it in the third position of the splice connector:
View attachment 221488

Placed the Wago connector inside the waterproof gel box and sealed it up:
View attachment 221489

View attachment 221490

I put the floor panel back on and tidied up the wiring with cable ties. Turned the start and house battery switches on and no red light on the DVSR. Started the engines and red light on DVSR came on so I chose the correct DVSR wire to connect to.

I hope this is helpful for those that want to do the same procedure even with some of the blurry photos.

I hate projects and am glad this one is over.

I did this mod on Saturday and it works great. I intercepted the blue wire to the fuel pump in the engine compartment. The harness goes to the top of the engine at the fuel rail. I did not cut the blue wire but stripped 1/2” of insulation and soldered a 22 gauge wire to it. I sealed it with liquid electric tape. At the Dvsr splice I used one of those self soldering, self sealing connectors that you use a heat gun on to seal. Either way works but I did not have to juggle around the open floor hatch. Thanks for your detailed write up!

 

[BigCal45]

Silly question, do you still have a 2 gauge negative wire to connect the LiFEPo4 house and the Lead Acid starter battery?

I took the 2 gauge negative wire and ran it from the starter battery to the negative bus bar(there was an unused stud on mine). The house battery already has a ground going to the negative bus bar so I don’t know why Yamaha did not wire this way from the factory, seems cleaner and simpler to me.