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Flushing engine on Yamaha 242 Limited S E series using in Saltwater

Yeah I dont get why they would say that besides trying to screw me but they seemed honest.
Also if so important you would think YAMAHA would have something in their lineup for us to buy just like everything else. Why doesnt Yamaha recommend it in the owners manaul?
 
Yeah I dont get why they would say that besides trying to screw me but they seemed honest.
Also if so important you would think YAMAHA would have something in their lineup for us to buy just like everything else. Why doesnt Yamaha recommend it in the owners manaul?

Only reason I can think of is that they don't want to recommend one specific product over another. I use Salt Away even after flushing my engines in a fresh water lake after every ocean visit. Almost everyone I have talked to does some kind of salt remediation after boating in saltwater.
 
Yeah I dont get why they would say that besides trying to screw me but they seemed honest.
Also if so important you would think YAMAHA would have something in their lineup for us to buy just like everything else. Why doesnt Yamaha recommend it in the owners manaul?
Look, some of it is just common sense.
Boat in salt, flush - use one of the many good protocols from Salt Away to Dawn detergent.
This is not specific to Yamaha or jet boat engines and parts. Except those (jet boats' drives) are generally more exposed and more sensitive to corrosion.

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LOL a hose alone will not get off the salt. Next time you're out in the gulf and ready to flush the boat just rinse any area on the boat and I bet you will still feel the grit from the salt crystals. Now imagine that inside your engine.....

The dealer ain't the one paying your boat premium. The dealer ain't the one that's going to pay for your damages of neglect. The dealer will however charge you out the ass for repairs. I wonder why he said don't do anything.....
 
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If you've never tried salt away, you will be shocked at how well it works. I flush with it and hose down the boat, trailer, and equipment. Make sure you remember to wax as well. I use the starbrite with PTEF (salt won't stick to it).
 
going to start using it. thanks guys. boat is 19 hours old
 
I use Dawn dish soap in mine for flushing. I also run the engine long enough to feel warm water exiting the side discharge. My thoughts are, if it doesn't run long enough to open the thermostat, it's not flushing the engine entirely. Or am I wrong there?
 
thanks for the info guys. I thought we werent supposed to run more than 5-10 mins with the hose hooked up.
 
thanks for the info guys. I thought we werent supposed to run more than 5-10 mins with the hose hooked up.

I run about 5 minutes fresh water, then 5 minutes with salt away.
 
thanks for the info guys. I thought we werent supposed to run more than 5-10 mins with the hose hooked up.

huh????? Where are you getting this from?? I'm guessing your dealer.

I've ran mine for 10+ minutes to get the oil nice and hot (to flow better for oil changes). I've probably ran it equally the same length of time if I'm doing a very thorough flushing (run engine until cup is not blue). As long as you have good water pressure (all pissers flowing good) then you should have no problems running your engine for however long you want to on the hose. It's no different than if you were sitting in the lake at idle. If you have weak water pressure and the pisser streams are very weak, then yes do not run long or you'll get an overheat alarm. Adjust water regulator at home to be within code but to also allow for greater water pressure at the spigot. I run mine at a strong 70 psi just so I know my boat is getting good pressure and my pissers flow good (not trickle) just as if I was sitting in a lake with the engine idling.
 
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This is a confusing topic as jets with BRP drive trains flush only up to 30sec on a trailer or so due to carbon seal damage risk.

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Yes the Salt away is expensive but I have had great luck with it. I just sold my 2000 Maxum with a Chevy 305 I/O. I was the original owner and used it extensively in both salt and fresh water since 1999. Every single time it was in the salt water I flushed it for 5 minutes with just water and then followed up with 5 minutes of Salt Away. Never flushed after being used in fresh water. The exhaust risers were original when I sold it! 18 years in and out of Salt water - I will always rinse my new Yamaha with salt away and as a second choice salt terminator.
 
Been reading this thread. Just bought my 242 Limited S E-Series. I run the boat in salt water exclusively in the bays near Fort Walton Beach, Florida. I rinse the motors for at least 5 minutes after every use. Seems I am not doing enough and Salt Away is the way to go. Appreciate the advice and discussion.
 
Everyone has their own home remedy or preference. I run salt only, I put hundreds of hours on the engines sitting at close to 650 currently, I rinse my engines with dish soap, I watch the soap come out and when it is finished no more soap suds I turn of the water and let the engine run about 30 seconds before shutting it off, works for me. I also spray white lithium grease all over my engine to cut corrosion and I use zinc anodes .
 
Great discussion! I’m moving my 2017 212X to salt - bay in NJ. Besides the salt away discussion...
  • How long can I leave it sit in the water, one week? Rented a slip for summer.
  • I saw a suggested wax, anything else I should apply at start of season?
  • What do you all spray on your engines?
  • Can it be flushed sitting in water - will it source only from the hose if water is turned on?
  • Debating selling it for something that can sit in water longer, but love this boat and no prop - great for shallow bay waters. Also considering float lift but 17K!
 
I have used saltaway and it goes a long way, it doesn't take that much for each flush.
 
You need some valves installed to flush while in the water...search for tow valves in the forum for the topic. In short...the cooling water comes in via a strainer on the outer liner of the pump. Without a valve the saltwater from the pump will mix with the pump water. shutting the water inlet from the jet pump into the cooling system will solve it. the same valve can also be closed in an emergency on a failed engine to drive fast on the other engine without harm, or to be towed at high speed with the engine off. The valve can be added, but it's not in from the factory.
 
Great discussion! I’m moving my 2017 212X to salt - bay in NJ. Besides the salt away discussion...
  • How long can I leave it sit in the water, one week? Rented a slip for summer.
  • I saw a suggested wax, anything else I should apply at start of season?
  • What do you all spray on your engines?
  • Can it be flushed sitting in water - will it source only from the hose if water is turned on?
  • Debating selling it for something that can sit in water longer, but love this boat and no prop - great for shallow bay waters. Also considering float lift but 17K!
There is another discussion somewhere here on the use of cooling line valves - I believe @Gym has those installed permitting him to flush in wet slip in salt.
Many here use crc656 or lithium grease spray on the engines.
Also the steering cables would need greased more than anything else but wear ring galvanic corrosion could be a bigger issue.

@Cobra Jet Steering LLC has posted a lot of useful advice on engine/pump maintenance in harsh FL salt.

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Somewhere on here is a discussion of Magnesium vs. Zinc Anodes. Maybe worth a consideration.Those things are usually the last thing I think about.
 
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