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Garage door wont open from car only at night <SOLVED!>

Can someone ELI5 me why LED lights are blocking the signal? Is it some sort of PWM in the lights to dim them from full brightness? I'm completely lost here.

*edit*

Answering my own question here.

Pulse Width Modulation is used to increase the current to the diodes, resulting in a brighter light for a given voltage. This is what causes the flicker you see through video recording (or more appropriately the aliasing you see). Some LED's have poor shielding circuitry, or generally poor circuitry to suppress this PWM frequency which can then overlap your garage door opening (30-300Mhz range). Ferrite beads on the supply lines can help reduce the interfering emissions, but not eliminate it.

Some links :D

Why PWM is used in bulbs in the first place: https://electronics.stackexchange.c...rol-leds-even-when-theyre-only-used-on-or-off

Why PWM messes with the garage door operation: How LED Lights Cause Interference With Your Garage Door Opener

What PWM is: https://www.analogictips.com/pulse-width-modulation-pwm/
 
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@adrianp89 So the MyQ came in and so far it refuses to connect and remain connected to my network (says signal strength is low - even when its sitting right next to the router). Finally got past that (by restarting my network) and it won't connect to the LiftMaster Opener. Now its disconnected from the network again.

May be a case of for $25....you get what you pay for? I'll call them one more time and see what they have to say - they keep pawning it off my my network - and I'm pretty darn sure my network is just fine - I have 45 other devices that have no problem at all!
 
@adrianp89 So the MyQ came in and so far it refuses to connect and remain connected to my network (says signal strength is low - even when its sitting right next to the router). Finally got past that (by restarting my network) and it won't connect to the LiftMaster Opener. Now its disconnected from the network again.

May be a case of for $25....you get what you pay for? I'll call them one more time and see what they have to say - they keep pawning it off my my network - and I'm pretty darn sure my network is just fine - I have 45 other devices that have no problem at all!

Did you confirm the two are compatible? I bought mine when it was double that price lol - but no issues here with my Chamberlain.

I think I did call them and had a tech walk me through sync because it didn't go the way it "should". If it's connecting in the app but can't program, it's either being programmed wrong or incompatible.

If incompatible it looks like amazon has a bunch of options now.
 
@adrianp89 So the MyQ came in and so far it refuses to connect and remain connected to my network (says signal strength is low - even when its sitting right next to the router). Finally got past that (by restarting my network) and it won't connect to the LiftMaster Opener. Now its disconnected from the network again.

May be a case of for $25....you get what you pay for? I'll call them one more time and see what they have to say - they keep pawning it off my my network - and I'm pretty darn sure my network is just fine - I have 45 other devices that have no problem at all!

@Julian are you pairing the phone on the same wifi network as the Myq? I ask coz I use a guest network for my IOT and when my phone (not on guest network) couldn’t directly talk to the Myq base it wouldn’t connect.

The solution was to put my phone on the guest network andset it up that way. Make sure you do MyQ reset to start the pairing fresh.
 
@adrianp89 it says its compatible.
@mark_m they are both on the same network

I'm going to connect with support a THIRD time-if they cant figure it out...its going back. Lots of complaints about crappy setup and connectivity issues.
 
@adrianp89 it says its compatible.
@mark_m they are both on the same network

I'm going to connect with support a THIRD time-if they cant figure it out...its going back. Lots of complaints about crappy setup and connectivity issues.

that is unfortunate, I’ve had mine for ~5 years now with only minimal quirks.
 
@adrianp89 it says its compatible.
@mark_m they are both on the same network

I'm going to connect with support a THIRD time-if they cant figure it out...its going back. Lots of complaints about crappy setup and connectivity issues.
@Julian only thing I can think of is the device must use the 2.4ghz frequency. Could that be a consideration with interference?
 
I never knew LEDs could do this. I got a new door opener about a year ago, I live in military housing so had no say in what opener was installed, the one installed has MyQ, which I like, but I had a wireless controller on the wall outside so we could open the door without having to have a remote with us. I couldn’t get it to connect with the new opener at all and finally gave up. Worked flawlessly with the old opener, but I did put a LED bulb in this new opener and I have LED shop lights on both sides of the opener on the garage ceiling…..
 
Julian are you trying to program with your LED lights still around?
 
Julian are you trying to program with your LED lights still around?
No...I have them turned off at this point because they block the entire spectrum - including the stock garage remotes and my car!

2.4 ghz is open and available.
Auto Channel setting may be the issue -but I've not found a way to turn this off in google wifi (YET) - haven't looked either - damn job is getting in the way! LOL
 
I never knew LEDs could do this. I got a new door opener about a year ago, I live in military housing so had no say in what opener was installed, the one installed has MyQ, which I like, but I had a wireless controller on the wall outside so we could open the door without having to have a remote with us. I couldn’t get it to connect with the new opener at all and finally gave up. Worked flawlessly with the old opener, but I did put a LED bulb in this new opener and I have LED shop lights on both sides of the opener on the garage ceiling…..
I'll bet LED bulbs were/are your problem!
 
Looks like it hardwires to the opener too.....which would be fine with me - much simpler (especially if you only have one door).
Indeed it does wire directly to the opener. It also has a physical switch that tells you when the door is open or closed.
 
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