Important Scarab/Chaparral/Glastron Info. **Please Read**

[ScarabMike]

I have been getting some questions about the 25 hour maintenance. Here is what you need to know.

This is the first oil change for the Rotax engine. Most of the dealers I have talked to have no idea what oil to use, or they just assume that any 5W40 oil is fine to use. THIS IS FAR FROM THE TRUTH!!!!!!

Our engines are very different to other engines. They run at extreme rpms most of their life, and are always under high stress. Regular engine oil WILL break down, and your engines will lock up. Please make sure your service department is using a JASO-MA Certified oil. There are many brands out there offering this type of oil. Its basically the same as full synthetic motor oil for motorcycles. Its also known as 4T oil.

OIL FILTER BRP PART #420956741

These oils are extremely expensive. Some like the Mobile 1 4T oil is close to $10 a quart.

Now there is light at the end of the tunnel. There is an incredible oil that I have used with great success in my jet ski, and now in my Scarab. And thats the Shell Rotella T6 in the blue bottle.

You can get it at Walmart for about $29 for a gallon.

This oil is highly recommended by all PWC and motorcycle owners, and I can tell you its awesome.

Of course, you can also use BRP XPS oil, and stay with OEM brands.

 

[ScarabMike]

The maintenance light needs to be cleared by resetting the maintenance clock in the ECU. The dealer needs to do this by using the B.U.D.S. system, and connecting it to the CAN connector right next to the engine fuse block.

 

[Eric195]

Do you have to replace any of the O-rings?

 

[LTM1964]

When I had a SeaDoo with the Rotax engine, I bought the oil change kit from the dealer. It had oil, a filter, o-rings, spark plugs, and instructions. I never bothered to see if it was a good value since I knew the filter and o-rings were exactly what I needed so I didn't have to try to order parts separately. It is the same kit that a SeaDoo PWC uses.

 

[smashedheadcat]

Isn't the JASO certification rated based on friction as it relates to wet type clutches in motorcycles?

There are many excellent oils that are not JASO certified (including Rotella T6), however they have been tested by the parent company to meet or exceed the requirements. In the case of the rotella T6 oil, it is not jaso certified, but shell states that it meets or exceeds the requirement and will not void the factory warranty. I'm willing to bet the OEM fill is not JASO certified either. It probably has an API classification of SM, SL, or SJ. The Rotella T6 does indeed have an API classification of SM and is a phenomenal oil.

And for some comedy... (NSFW language)

 

[Vandyman]

PLEASE NOTE: you cannot/should not use full synthetic for supercharged ROTAX engines (can cause premature wear). I use Mobile 1 in my jet skis (non supercharged) but the BRP synthetic blend in my Chapparal VRX.

 

[dan144k]

What rpm do the seadoo and rotax operate at?
HOw does the Rpm compare to yamaha motors?

 

[Vandyman]

At 15 hours, my VRX maxes out at about 7800 RPM. I'm not sure about the Yamahas but think it is higher.

 

[smashedheadcat]

This is a very good read: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

 

[ScarabMike]

The SC utilizes clutch washers, BRP recommends wet clutch certified oils. There are a ton of Rotax owners that have been using this oil for years. It has lots of zinc, which is good for the cam and lots of detergent additives.
It is very sheer stable and that's good in the high revving Rotax engine.

PLEASE NOTE: you cannot/should not use full synthetic for supercharged ROTAX engines (can cause premature wear). I use Mobile 1 in my jet skis (non supercharged) but the BRP synthetic blend in my Chapparal VRX.

 

[ScarabMike]

This is not true. Where are you getting your info from? The reason BRP uses the semi synthetic oil in their blend is so it can be used in their non SC engines as well. Kind of like a dual purpose oil. But that does not mean its the best oil for your forced induction engine.

In fact, most pros will recommend full synth in their engines like Amsoil.

Here is the TSB that debunked the full synth oil myth.
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/smallengine/tsb se-2007-04-19 sea doo pwc.pdf

Here is some of info on the AMSOIL Synthetic Marine 10w-40 that is safe for the supercharger washers.

http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?z...storefront/wcf

PLEASE NOTE: you cannot/should not use full synthetic for supercharged ROTAX engines (can cause premature wear). I use Mobile 1 in my jet skis (non supercharged) but the BRP synthetic blend in my Chapparal VRX.

 

[Vandyman]

This is not true. Where are you getting your info from? The reason BRP uses the semi synthetic oil in their blend is so it can be used in their non SC engines as well. Kind of like a dual purpose oil. But that does not mean its the best oil for your forced induction engine.

In fact, most pros will recommend full synth in their engines like Amsoil.

Here is the TSB that debunked the full synth oil myth.
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/smallengine/tsb se-2007-04-19 sea doo pwc.pdf

Here is some of info on the AMSOIL Synthetic Marine 10w-40 that is safe for the supercharger washers.

http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?z...storefront/wcf

I am not convinced by the Amsoil review. First, that report is for models up to 2007. Secondly, bench tests may not truly represent real-world data. I am all for using the best product for a given application, but the numerous people I've spoken with, at least for my 2015 model, recommend the BRP semi-synthetic. It will also ensure no warranty concerns. I know there are great alternative products out there, but for this particular application I personally adhere to the OEM recommendation. Post warranty may offer other choices though.

 

[ScarabMike]

@Vandyman I understand your point, but its a personal one. No one is making anyone change how or what you do to your engine. In the end, its yours.

But, please don't pass information like your post above without information justifying it. Personally, I would never use anything less than a full synthetic on any forced induction motor, especially a high revving one that is constantly under load.

The supercharger design has changed very little from its original form with the 4 stroke Rotax engines. Overall it has been a great design, but has needed some updating for durability.

This thread isn't intended to tell anyone what brand or oil mix to use as long as its rated to work with our type of engine, that's why both blends are included in the first post. It was intended for people who's dealers were using, or about to use normal off the shelf motor oils.

 

[Vandyman]

@Vandyman I understand your point, but its a personal one. No one is making anyone change how or what you do to your engine. In the end, its yours.

But, please don't pass information like your post above without information justifying it. Personally, I would never use anything less than a full synthetic on any forced induction motor, especially a high revving one that is constantly under load.

The supercharger design has changed very little from its original form with the 4 stroke Rotax engines. Overall it has been a great design, but has needed some updating for durability.

This thread isn't intended to tell anyone what brand or oil mix to use as long as its rated to work with our type of engine, that's why both blends are included in the first post. It was intended for people who's dealers were using, or about to use normal off the shelf motor oils.

@ScarabMike I respect your opinion, but the superchargers have changed in a very substantial way since 2007. I think the initial post was misleading to a degree (not intentionally, but not quite 100% factual nonetheless). Oils (and synthetics) have vastly different coefficients of friction at various temps, pressures, and other operating parameters (such as when clutches are involved), and I do believe that there could be issues by using a full synthetic in current production BRP supercharged engines which might be designed for certain products. When venturing away from OEM recommendations (especially when warranties are involved), I simply advise caution.

 

[PapaBear]

In aviation when ever and I do mean ever there is some kind of factual,gray area dispute I can call ,email my Canadair,Boeing or Airbus rep (who in turn calls an engineer) I have an answer almost immediately. Never had to call Boeing...nuff said there

 

[JusFlyinBy]

@ScarabMike, "This is the first oil change for the Rotax engine."

My Rotax manual states that an oil change is required at 10 hours. I had brought my boat in for it's first service and they too stated it required an oil change. Is this a TSB or recent change, that the engines do not require an oil change until 25 hours? If so, the dealer owes me some money...

 

[ScarabMike]

@JusFlyinBy Im not going to comment on what they have, or should have done. Like the comments above, people are different in their maintenance routines. This is also the case with dealers.

Ill tell you this. My dealer gave my boat a complete overlook, and even replaced side decals. They changed the oil, and had it analyzed. Completed any recals/tsb's, and called me to see if there was any concerns. They are the only dealer allowed to touch my boat. They used to be down the street, and now over 4 hours away. I will change my oil every 50 hours, or once a year. BRP recommends every 100 hours or every year.

 

[Slugger55]

@JusFlyinBy My BRP manual says change oil and filter at 10 hours along with the warranty check. I think it is on page 35...

 

[BobJohnson]

Bringing up a post from the summer.... I am a little confused and hoping for your thoughts. I did not do a oil change at the end of the season, as I plan to do it when the boat comes out of storage in the spring. So, been reading up on which oil to order and have some differing information.
- My boat has the twin 150 engines, so no super charger.

My BRP manual says "Recommended oil = The engine has been developed and validated using XPS Synthetic blend oil. BRP strongly recommends the use of its XPS Synthetic blend oil at all items."

At my 25 hour check up last year, the dealer did the initial oil change. From the invoice I see they used XPS 4 Stroke Synthetic Oil, not the blend.

Above, @ScarabMike you say "The reason BRP uses the semi synthetic oil in their blend is so it can be used in their non SC engines as well. Kind of like a dual purpose oil." - This statement leads me to believe, like my manual says, that the semi synthetic (or synthetic blend) is what should be used in a non-super charged engine.

I guess my confusion is, I thought synthetic oil was better than the blend. Kind of like, the recommended oil is the Blend version, but if you use full synthetic, you are doing even better. Again for non super charged engine(s). Do you feel this is a correct statement?

Right now I am leaning towards the Synthetic Blend oil, basically because of how my manual reads. I however am doing more research on the subject, as I am obviously not 100 % knowledgeable on different oils and want to learn everything I can about what is the best option for my boat.

 

[Vandyman]

Bringing up a post from the summer.... I am a little confused and hoping for your thoughts. I did not do a oil change at the end of the season, as I plan to do it when the boat comes out of storage in the spring. So, been reading up on which oil to order and have some differing information.
- My boat has the twin 150 engines, so no super charger.

My BRP manual says "Recommended oil = The engine has been developed and validated using XPS Synthetic blend oil. BRP strongly recommends the use of its XPS Synthetic blend oil at all items."

At my 25 hour check up last year, the dealer did the initial oil change. From the invoice I see they used XPS 4 Stroke Synthetic Oil, not the blend.

Above, @ScarabMike you say "The reason BRP uses the semi synthetic oil in their blend is so it can be used in their non SC engines as well. Kind of like a dual purpose oil." - This statement leads me to believe, like my manual says, that the semi synthetic (or synthetic blend) is what should be used in a non-super charged engine.

I guess my confusion is, I thought synthetic oil was better than the blend. Kind of like, the recommended oil is the Blend version, but if you use full synthetic, you are doing even better. Again for non super charged engine(s). Do you feel this is a correct statement?

Right now I am leaning towards the Synthetic Blend oil, basically because of how my manual reads. I however am doing more research on the subject, as I am obviously not 100 % knowledgeable on different oils and want to learn everything I can about what is the best option for my boat.

As I understand it, the synthetic blend is used for the supercharged engines as it is formulated specifically for the internal clutch. I use Mobil1 in my non-supercharged SeaDoo jetskis and they perform well. I prefer pure synthetic for all of the stated reasons, but especially since it seems to maintain integrity in these high-revving engines. In my supercharged engines though, I do use the BRP blend.