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Is this brake actuator salvagable?

paleus

Active Member
Messages
48
Reaction score
49
Points
27
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Got a new to us 2016 AR240 at the end of the summer.

The brakes are not working. We towed it a few times as it is and didn't have any trouble but a winter project is to get the trailer back into shape.

Here's what the brake fluid reservoir looks like:


PXL_20251003_133342808.jpg

PXL_20251003_133336045.jpg

Bone dry and some crud in there.

Is this salvageable or do I just need to get a whole new actuator?

Everything moves freely in the actuator and the shock is still damping the movement.
 
Got a new to us 2016 AR240 at the end of the summer.

The brakes are not working. We towed it a few times as it is and didn't have any trouble but a winter project is to get the trailer back into shape.

Here's what the brake fluid reservoir looks like:


View attachment 240125

View attachment 240126

Bone dry and some crud in there.

Is this salvageable or do I just need to get a whole new actuator?

Everything moves freely in the actuator and the shock is still damping the movement.
No, not salvageable.

Go onto the trailer parts superstore and you can pick one up there. They’re about 350 bucks.
 
First off, no not salvageable. At least not "reasonably" salvageable. Now, food for thought: if you've ever considered upgrading to electric over hydraulic, now is the time. It's a better system, no "slamming" on starts and stops, and you're able to control the amount of braking force applied from the drivers seat. It does require a brake controller, though.
 
First off, no not salvageable. At least not "reasonably" salvageable. Now, food for thought: if you've ever considered upgrading to electric over hydraulic, now is the time. It's a better system, no "slamming" on starts and stops, and you're able to control the amount of braking force applied from the drivers seat. It does require a brake controller, though.

I'm not opposed to that. Do you have a list of parts needed to convert it?
 
You do your own research, and make the decision for yourself, but I like the Hydrastar 381-7067. Now, I want to make sure you’re aware, this system requires the tow vehicle to have a brake controller, as well as a 12volt constant hot wire in the vehicle plug. Both commonly part of any vehicles tow package.
 
You do your own research, and make the decision for yourself, but I like the Hydrastar 381-7067. Now, I want to make sure you’re aware, this system requires the tow vehicle to have a brake controller, as well as a 12volt constant hot wire in the vehicle plug. Both commonly part of any vehicles tow package.
Thanks. Yes, my truck has a brake controller.
 
I saw this one on the wake boats at the outdoor show…I like it because it’s compact and can integrate with the system that’s already on our boat trailers.


It’s on my wish list of things to do but is pretty far down the list as my surge brake is working very well since I bled it with the pressure bleeder.

The thing I do not like about surge brakes is the inability to test the brakes from the cab when heading out, you have to use a screwdriver on the manual bleeding point to see if it is still working. Or to be able to apply the brakes manually while underway. The other thing I don’t like about surge brakes is that while going down hills and using the trucks engine brake, the sure brakes will be on, and they can get a bit warm.

On the plus side surge brakes are simple stand alone mechanical brakes that are super reliable and need just basic maintenance.

Here’s a couple links to help you with the change out and some maintenance you should do while you’re at it.


 
Thanks @FSH 210 Sport

I'm going to just replace the surge brake actuator with the same part. Electric actuated brakes would be sweet, but I don't think it's worth 3x the cost of fixing the surge brake system.
 
Thanks @FSH 210 Sport

I'm going to just replace the surge brake actuator with the same part. Electric actuated brakes would be sweet, but I don't think it's worth 3x the cost of fixing the surge brake system.
Welcome and congrats on the new boat.

Imho, if your actuator has that much debris/corrosion inside then your whole brake systems more than likely need to be replaced or at least serviced. This would include replacing the brake likes and calipers. Otherwise, your new actuator will get damaged when all the rust and corrosion further down the lines returns to the reservoir.
 
Welcome and congrats on the new boat.

Imho, if your actuator has that much debris/corrosion inside then your whole brake systems more than likely need to be replaced or at least serviced. This would include replacing the brake likes and calipers. Otherwise, your new actuator will get damaged when all the rust and corrosion further down the lines returns to the reservoir.
Good point.

I wonder if I could flush the lines before swapping out the actuator by sticking the front end of the line in a container of brake fluid, I have a vacuum pump. Would that be enough to clear out the crud?
 
Good point.

I wonder if I could flush the lines before swapping out the actuator by sticking the front end of the line in a container of brake fluid, I have a vacuum pump. Would that be enough to clear out the crud?
That would be a good start. Seeing as how the majority of the corrosion might be closer to the master cylinder, It might make more sense to push the fluid from the caliper ends back towards the master cylinder. Inspecting the fluid for debris and corrosion would help determine if the lines and calipers would be salvageable or whether they might need replacing along with the master cylinder.
 
What can be done to avoid this damage? I am picking up a new boat soon but it will be my first.
 
What can be done to avoid this damage? I am picking up a new boat soon but it will be my first.
If I had to guess I’d say the cap of the master cylinder was lost and over time the reservoir collected water / salt water and corroded.

It n other words lack of maintenance
 
If I had to guess I’d say the cap of the master cylinder was lost and over time the reservoir collected water / salt water and corroded.

It n other words lack of maintenance
Thanks for the reply. Doesn't look like a great seal on the cap either. An o-ring or other seal would be preferred.
 
If I had to guess I’d say the cap of the master cylinder was lost and over time the reservoir collected water / salt water and corroded.

It n other words lack of maintenance
The cap was still on the master cylinder, just not in the picture.

I'm guessing there was a leak and the previous owner never checked the fluid level.
 
Thanks for the reply. Doesn't look like a great seal on the cap either. An o-ring or other seal would be preferred.
The reservoir seal or cap has ridge in it that seals against the rubber ring that fits in the top of the reservoir. Not the best design for sure as water could / can just sit on top of it, but the outer shield should shed any rain or wash water, a rubber grommet would be a better shield. You can see that water sat on top of that area and caused rust.

When you get the new boat check the brake reservoir and you’ll see what I mean, the reservoir cap is a snug fit. Keep it clean and be sure to clean it off before opening it. There is a small pin that sticks down from the plug that is a reservoir level indicator.

This thread and the one that @Zackdadams did on his 252 FSH trailer brakes, much better than my thread, is useful to keeping the trailer brakes working in proper order.

I linked this thread above… be sure and keep the bearing buddies topped off with grease ESPECIALLY when new as the air is still purging out of the hub, don’t over grease them or you’ll get a mess as excess grease will push past the piston to keep from over pressurizing the hub, just make sure the piston can rock at any temp which indicates grease under the piston. For the first few outings take a grease gun with you and check the bearing buddies before launching the boat, if the pistons rock you’re good to go. Before you retrieve / load the boat check the bb again to make sure there is grease under the piston. Once all the air gets out of the hub they stay pretty consistent, but they still need to be checked when the hubs are cool.

I think at the very least pulling the caliper slide pins and lubricating them with specialized lube I found on at least an annual basis is very important, more often if in salt water. Knowing what I do now, I’d get a pressure bleeder and bleed the brakes as part of the new vehicle check. As I showed in the one thread my bearing temps became much more consistent and lower on the brake hubs once the brake system was bled properly. As well, once the brake fluid starts to become cloudy aka contaminated with water it’s time to remove that fluid and flush the system out.

This may seem like a lot but only at first. It’ll get down to a simple routine of checks and will guarantee good brake performance and much lower maintenance tasks.
 
@FSH 210 Sport

Thank you very much for the thorough reply. I will try to bring my grease gun with me but not sure about messing with the brakes when I pick it up. I am driving from Houston to Florida to purchase. I have a pressure bleeder but my truck bed is quickly filling up with gear for the trip and boat use. I want to take it out on the amazing water they have there compared to our muddy bay.

I will bookmark the thread you linked.
 
@FSH 210 Sport

Thank you very much for the thorough reply. I will try to bring my grease gun with me but not sure about messing with the brakes when I pick it up. I am driving from Houston to Florida to purchase. I have a pressure bleeder but my truck bed is quickly filling up with gear for the trip and boat use. I want to take it out on the amazing water they have there compared to our muddy bay.

I will bookmark the thread you linked.
Don’t worry about the brakes until you get home.. just make sure the reservoir is full. What is your tow vehicle?

But good deal on talking the grease gun with marine grease in it.. make sure it is full and possibly take another tube of grease.. that way you will not need it. So this is a “brand new boat” or used new to you boat?

If you do not have a heat gun get one and keep tabs on the hub temps..
 
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