Still leaking

[tdonoughue]

Morally, you are exactly right. You should be outraged. I am outraged.

Now that we have established that, I would fix that myself. Pull the rub rail, calk with 5200 and replace the rail.

Why? Because then you know it will be fixed, fixed correctly and can move on. No appointment necessary. No taking your boat in, handing it off, finding out they walked in it with shoes on, no taking it back 7 times because they didn't get it right, no waiting, and no downtime (of significance) of your boat this summer.

That is the way I would go.

 

[mraz72]

I would agree, if you are capable of repairing this as well if not better than the dealer, I would do it myself.

I am getting canvas covers built for my boat today and I was talking to the owner and asked if hes heard of any of the 24' hulls leaking around that area, he said he doesn't know of 1 case, not sure what that's worth, but at least we know it isn't a very common problem.

 

[Bill D]

I wonder if any of us did the same would we see the same results?

I know when we go surfing, the port side of the swim deck is calf deep under water. I can attest that my boat doesn't leak at the run rail around the swim deck.

 

[mraz72]

I mean from hosing the area from the inside, does it behave differently, more likely to leak. I would guess not, as you said you submerge the deck. I was just throwing it out there.

 

[Pullen724]

@MrMoose - When the dealer resealed your driveshafts, do you know if they had to remove the clamp and tube or did they just peel off the old sealant and replace?

I got my rubrail fixed and now that I dont have that water coming in, I can clearly see both driveshaft seals are leaking. The clamps are tight but water is trickling in slowly. If I dont have to remove the tubing and clamp, I may be trying to redo this myself - suggested sealant type to use?

 

[MrMoose]

@Pullen724, your boat is under warranty. Let your dealer take care of this. Once they disassembled things on my boat, my dealer's opinion was that the silicone sealant was defective. They said that it did not adhere to the tube and that they could see the path that the water had taken between the tube and sealant. To be safe, my dealer ordered new tubes and fittings.
Good luck

 

[tdonoughue]

Yes, I should clarify what I said (in one of these threads somewhere): if it is just sealing the rub rail--that is a simple job. A few screws, a little 5200 and you are done.

Driveshaft seals are a whole different level of complexity. For me, that one would go to the dealer if under warranty. Definitely. Agree with the Moose entirely.

 

[swatski]

This is an old thread that I missed, @haknslash just linked to it.

How on earth do you guys "seal the rub rail"???

I looked into this in my 2012 190 and my 2016 240 - and the way I see it, Yamaha does not seal the gap between the top and the bottom parts/halves of the hull (cap and hull)... They just slap the rub rail to cover it up, but it will leak, of course. Look from the inside - the gap is obvious. It is fiberglass on fiberglass with nothing in between, for the most part.

Which is fine until you start pushing the rub rail under water. I think @Bill D's boat does not leak because the PO was obsesive and probably actually pulled the whole rub rail (both parts, the rail and the inner strip) and sealed between the top and bottom hull parts, not just the screw holes...

That is not a trivial job.

Please, anyone, correct me if I see it the wrong way. If there is an easy way to seal the rub rail - I want to know!!!

--

 

[Beachbummer]

If you have a winter and are willing to wait until it, I would consider letting the dealer do it

No way I would lose a single boating day during boating season to let them attempt to repair this. It's just not worth it.

 

[mikestak]

Hi MrMoose,

I still have my leaking as we discussed a month or so ago. The dealer did the entire rub rail, anchor locker, and I found and fixed the starboard shifter cable through hull fitting, and the port hot water outlet fitting (which had a pinched washer). I have done the baby powder trick and while my wife is driving the boat I watch in the back with my head lamp on. I am sure the other boaters I pass think I am wacked! Anyway, I see dripping right below the port side drive shaft hose, but when I grab the underside of the hose it's dry! So I have no idea where this dripping is coming from. Also, looks like water is also coming from under the front wall (wall behind the engines), so can't see that either. Either way I will be doing the test again, but starting with the boat tied to ther dock and progressing slowly until I get the leaking.

1.) Is there a way to disable the access hatch buttons that kill the engines when the hatch is open? Right now I made a piece of wood that I use to hold the buttons down while I'm in the back leak hunting, but I need to use that hand to get further into that area.

2.) How did they fix your through bearing? Did they have to remove the engine to get the drive shaft out?

 

[MrMoose]

Hi MrMoose,

I still have my leaking as we discussed a month or so ago. The dealer did the entire rub rail, anchor locker, and I found and fixed the starboard shifter cable through hull fitting, and the port hot water outlet fitting (which had a pinched washer). I have done the baby powder trick and while my wife is driving the boat I watch in the back with my head lamp on. I am sure the other boaters I pass think I am wacked! Anyway, I see dripping right below the port side drive shaft hose, but when I grab the underside of the hose it's dry! So I have no idea where this dripping is coming from. Also, looks like water is also coming from under the front wall (wall behind the engines), so can't see that either. Either way I will be doing the test again, but starting with the boat tied to ther dock and progressing slowly until I get the leaking.

1.) Is there a way to disable the access hatch buttons that kill the engines when the hatch is open? Right now I made a piece of wood that I use to hold the buttons down while I'm in the back leak hunting, but I need to use that hand to get further into that area.

2.) How did they fix your through bearing? Did they have to remove the engine to get the drive shaft out?

@milkstak my bearings were not leaking. It was the thru-hull fitting that the drive shaft passes through that had "bad silicone" according to the dealer. They replaced the fittings and the rubber hoses that the drive shafts are enclosed in as they pass between the transom and the engine wall.

 

[mikestak]

I'm sorry, I meant to say fitting. I am sure I have the same leak as you had since I see dripping right below the hose that the drive shaft is in. When I asked my dealer about how to fix it, he stated that the engine has to be pulled out of the boat to get the drive shaft out, to then replace the firring, the hose and the clamps. Did they have to pull your engines to replace the fittings, and rubber hoses?

 

[MrMoose]

@mikestak, I'm pretty sure that they just pulled the pumps, and the part of the driveshaft that is in the black tube comes out with the pump. No need to shift/remove the engines. They showed the "defective silicone" to me. It had no adhesion to the black tube, and the silicone itself had developed a smokey-grey tint. I removed the storage tray located to the right of the captain's seat (behind the throttle levers), and the sealant just pulled off. It's almost as if they are using two types of silicone: one that's like a peelable weatherstripping, and another that's meant to stick "forever"... and I'm wondering if someone is getting them mixed-up.

 

[mikestak]

I thik you're right; I had the same issue with my access cover - the slicone just peeled right off where it actually was, most of the cover had none! Thanks for the reply, I will inform my dealer as to what they need to do after 1 more testing run. I let you all know what happens.

 

[mikestak]

Does anyone know how to disable the swim platform access hatch buttons that disable the motors if the hatch is open?

 

[MrMoose]

I thik you're right; I had the same issue with my access cover - the slicone just peeled right off where it actually was, most of the cover had none! Thanks for the reply, I will inform my dealer as to what they need to do after 1 more testing run. I let you all know what happens.

Ya, I think they're using the same stuff that you find on the back of gift cards to hold them onto the cardboard packaging. I wonder if it's on purpose in that they consider the fittings as "removable" so they don't use the permanent silicone.

 

[Cgeetter]

Morally, you are exactly right. You should be outraged. I am outraged.

Now that we have established that, I would fix that myself. Pull the rub rail, calk with 5200 and replace the rail.

Why? Because then you know it will be fixed, fixed correctly and can move on. No appointment necessary. No taking your boat in, handing it off, finding out they walked in it with shoes on, no taking it back 7 times because they didn't get it right, no waiting, and no downtime (of significance) of your boat this summer.

That is the way I would go.

Any links or suggestions on rub rail sealing? I have no doubt that’s my source of water but I already totally sealed cleanout port liner and access hatch. Figuring it May be easier to just do the rub rail fix then try to get access to test my theory. any advice?

 

[Cgeetter]

Does anyone know how to disable the swim platform access hatch buttons that disable the motors if the hatch is open?

Not sure if you got this solved but I took mine out. Literally just unscrew the plastic washer and they will pop out from below. I then used gorilla duct tape to tape them shut and did not reinstall in the holes, just left them dangling for now till I solve my leak issues

 

[swatski]

Any links or suggestions on rub rail sealing? I have no doubt that’s my source of water but I already totally sealed cleanout port liner and access hatch. Figuring it May be easier to just do the rub rail fix then try to get access to test my theory. any advice?

Sealing the rub rail is tricky. If not done perfectly (cosmetically) it may devalue boat's resale, possibly quite significantly, just something to keep in mind.

--

 

[tdonoughue]

@swatski , a little surprised at this. Disclaimer: I haven't needed to do this on my boat. But I thought that it was a matter of pulling the rail, dropping in some 5200/4200, and putting the rail back. What am I missing that would affect the cosmetics, etc. as you suggest?

Thanks.