These Kenwood Amps are a fantastic value..

[Bruce]

Okay, so I have a quick question. I am currently running a Kicker 5 Channel amp. It has a designated Sub Woofer channel. Amp seems to be having issues (got wet I believe). If I replace it, do I have to go with another 5 Channel amp? Or will this Kenwood 4 channel work? Or would I need 2 Kenwoods?

Do you have four speakers and a sub? You could run the four speakers in parallel as a 2 ohm load on two channels of this amplifier and use the other two channels for your sub. Depending on how much powers your Kicker produced you may want more wattage than two channels of this Kenwood amp will provide.

 

[Bruce]

beating a dead horse but these amps are beauty lol, almost have my install done, the chore of pulling new speaker wires is 90% complete, only tower remaining.

Thank you for posting the dyno video. I had been looking for one. Surprisingly the Kenwood's ouput bests that of the similar JL MHX280/4. These amps were an amazing value!

 

[Bruce]

It's a JL Audio subwoofer. 10 in I believe. Was installed by previous owner. Not sure it's max. I can check

A Kicker amp powering a JL Audio subwoofer!

What model is the amplifier?

 

[ToddW850]

A Kicker amp powering a JL Audio subwoofer!

What model is the amplifier?

Amp I currently have is a Kicker M700.5

Got your reply on running parallel. Thanks. Almost want to go with a similar set up to what I have, so I know it works. Not sure why I'm so confused with the 4 channel amps. I'm just confused on powering my sub. But I guess you are saying run all my speakers off 2 speaker outputs, and the sub off the other two...that sound right?

 

[Bruce]

But I guess you are saying run all my speakers off 2 speaker outputs, and the sub off the other two...that sound right?

That is correct.

Is this your current amplifier?
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21964_Kicker-ZXM700.5-10ZXM700.5.html

If so you would have similar output to the four speakers using the Kenwood KAC-M3004 although the sub output might be a little less. You certainly would see a reduction in battery consumption switching from the current class AB amp to a class D.

 

[ToddW850]

That is correct.

Is this your current amplifier?
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21964_Kicker-ZXM700.5-10ZXM700.5.html

If so you would have similar output to the four speakers using the Kenwood KAC-M3004 although the sub output might be a little less. You certainly would see a reduction in battery consumption switching from the current class AB amp to a class D.

Yes sir @Bruce that is my current Kicker amp. Thanks for the advice. I may just run with the Kenwood KAC-M3004

 

[Bruce]

@ToddW850, if you used one KAC-M3004 for the four speakers and a $90 KAC-M3001 for the sub you would certainly have an upgrade over the current setup.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/lp/...iliate=googpla&scid=scplp96713&sc_intid=96713

 

[ToddW850]

@ToddW850, if you used one KAC-M3004 for the four speakers and a $90 KAC-M3001 for the sub you would certainly have an upgrade over the current setup.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/lp/...iliate=googpla&scid=scplp96713&sc_intid=96713

I feel like I have so many options now, haha. But I kinda like this idea as well. Maybe I can start off with the 3004 and if I don't like it, I can add the 3001.

 

[Bruce]

I feel like I have so many options now, haha. But I kinda like this idea as well. Maybe I can start off with the 3004 and if I don't like it, I can add the 3001.

That would be a reasonable path to take.

 

[renrab]

Do you have four speakers and a sub? You could run the four speakers in parallel as a 2 ohm load on two channels of this amplifier and use the other two channels for your sub. Depending on how much powers your Kicker produced you may want more wattage than two channels of this Kenwood amp will provide.

Thank you for posting the dyno video. I had been looking for one. Surprisingly the Kenwood's ouput bests that of the similar JL MHX280/4. These amps were an amazing value!

@Bruce No problem for the link, I was watching that video with a grin, most electronics struggle to hit rated, not this little guy.

I like the thought about running four speakers in parallel, I want to attempt to power 6 cabin speakers with one amp, and use a second amp for my rev 8's (I know it won't be long until I want more power for the rev8's but for now I'll see what it sounds like..wife isn't a huge fan of them already, I figure hook them up with room to grow )

I originally thought about running the bow speakers back to the head unit and leaving the four speakers each to their own channel, but I may see more power the route you suggested.

 

[SeanPC]

I've been toting this amp around for years. Forgot I had it until the other day when I was cleaning out my tool chest. Is this enough to power a sub? Assume 500/1 is 500 watt; 1 channel? Sounds like I want a class D amp but am not sure this one is.

 

[renrab]

That is specifically what that amp is used for is powering sub woofers. 1-4Ohm this amp should provide 500w of true power.

 

[SeanPC]

Apologies as I'm a newbie to DIY stereo installations

So thinking about tackling my install of both Kenwood amps this weekend. Sounds like running 8 gauge THHN positive and negative wires from the battery to both amps is enough (each amp with its own dedicated '+' and '-' wires). Assume I need 30amp inline fuses on the positive side for both? Heard doing that the closer to fuse to the battery the better.

Right now, plan on using 1 amp to power swim platform speakers and cockpit speakers. The other will power the bow speakers with 2 channels not used for now.

Any advice for a newbie?

 

[SeanPC]

That is specifically what that amp is used for is powering sub woofers. 1-4Ohm this amp should provide 500w of true power.

Good to know, thanks. Installing a sub is 'phase 2'.

 

[renrab]

Apologies as I'm a newbie to DIY stereo installations

So thinking about tackling my install of both Kenwood amps this weekend. Sounds like running 8 gauge THHN positive and negative wires from the battery to both amps is enough (each amp with its own dedicated '+' and '-' wires). Assume I need 30amp inline fuses on the positive side for both? Heard doing that the closer to fuse to the battery the better.

Right now, plan on using 1 amp to power swim platform speakers and cockpit speakers. The other will power the bow speakers with 2 channels not used for now.

Any advice for a newbie?

The only advice I have is estimate total power you are going to need at helm ahead of time. If you know you are going to have 2 amps powering house speakers, 1 amp powering a subwoofer and say a GPS Plotter and some lighting circuits you may want to run 0 or 4 gauge wire to helm and never need to run any more wires that way. So I installed 1/0 Gauge (0) with a circuit breaker near the battery and than have a fuse block as shown previously, than you only need 1-2ft of 8gauge to go to each amp. Might be cheaper than 3 runs of 8 gauge will be when it's all said and done, not sure but I know I will never "need" anymore power at the helm than the 150A wire I ran.

I can post a pic of how I installed mine later but it's much the same as all the guys previous had shown.

 

[swatski]

Apologies as I'm a newbie to DIY stereo installations

So thinking about tackling my install of both Kenwood amps this weekend. Sounds like running 8 gauge THHN positive and negative wires from the battery to both amps is enough (each amp with its own dedicated '+' and '-' wires). Assume I need 30amp inline fuses on the positive side for both? Heard doing that the closer to fuse to the battery the better.

Right now, plan on using 1 amp to power swim platform speakers and cockpit speakers. The other will power the bow speakers with 2 channels not used for now.

Any advice for a newbie?

If I may make a recommendation, the KnuKonceptz OFC wires that @Mainah recommends are FANTASTIC. Here is the 4awg variety. That would be more than enough for what you need. I used 15' each.


You could run those across the fuel compartment following the steering cables into the helm. Fuse with a breaker like a big Bussman mounted by the battery.


A distribution block is convenient if you can find what you want. I started making those on my own, I can fit what I want and how I want it. Just plug and play into the amp board. Here I'm putting together one for ballast pumps

 

[SeanPC]

@swatski - So I could run 4 gauge '+' from the battery to a breaker near the battery (how many amps?) and 4 gauge'+' wire from the breaker and 4 gauge '-' wire from battery under the floor to a distribution block under the helm. then run 8 gauge to each amp from the distribution block? Just need to make sure to use 30 amp fuses for the distribution block circuits I assume.

 

[swatski]

@swatski - So I could run 4 gauge '+' from the battery to a breaker near the battery (how many amps?) and 4 gauge'+' wire from the breaker and 4 gauge '-' wire from battery under the floor to a distribution block under the helm. then run 8 gauge to each amp from the distribution block? Just need to make sure to use 30 amp fuses for the distribution block circuits I assume.

Absolutely. This would also alleviate a chance of creating any ground loops and some such. Keep in mind, 4awg from knukonceptz is bigger than many 1/0 from some car "amp kits", easily, that wire is SOOO good. I used 15' and had little to spare, if your batteries are pushed deep in the bat comp or whatever, you may want to get some extra.
The fuel hatch pops right up with 4 allen bolts, just don't drop it on your toes, lol.
I ran mine in a loom, but then also did this thing with a pool noodle, to protect the cables inside, probably overkill


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[SeanPC]

Absolutely. This would also alleviate a chance of creating any ground loops and some such. Keep in mind, 4awg from knukonceptz is bigger than many 1/0 from some car "amp kits", easily, that wire is SOOO good. I used 15' and had little to spare, if your batteries are pushed deep in the bat comp or whatever, you may want to get some extra.
The fuel hatch pops right up with 4 allen bolts, just don't drop it on your toes, lol.
I ran mine in a loom, but then also did this thing with a pool noodle, to protect the cables inside, probably overkill
View attachment 55741

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Awesome, will be ordering some knukonceptz wire and planning this out for another weekend I think. Don't want to rush it and plan on taking her out all day tomorrow. My boat is in storage so can't look myself at the moment but is there a easy place to tap into power after the house battery switch? Or do you just plug into the house battery directly and use the breaker to kill power while in storage?

 

[swatski]

Awesome, will be ordering some knukonceptz wire and planning this out for another weekend I think. Don't want to rush it and plan on taking her out all day tomorrow. My boat is in storage so can't look myself at the moment but is there a easy place to tap into power after the house battery switch? Or do you just plug into the house battery directly and use the breaker to kill power while in storage?

I only used the breaker method because I wanted an added flexibility of being able to disengage that circuit alone (I have non-critical devices on it such as ballast pumps and those would be "off" during more challenging trips, like Bimini).
Connecting to the battery switch is simpler, but a bit of a PITA as the switch needs to come off to add new connections (it is held by long bolts thru carpeted plywood bulkhead).

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