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Trailer Guide Help

Don't be dumb like me and install them right over your gas cap. :rolleyes:[/QUOTE said:
That is too bad..why not just move them? Or have you done that already.
 
Haven't done it yet. Lots of other more important things to work on last fall. At some point I'll have to drill two new holes and move the posts back a few inches.
 
So just out of curiosity, how much width do these add to your trailer? I planned on installing these but had not even gave clearance a thought..
 
Only about 6" -8" to the overall width at the widest part of the boat.
 
Yep another mod to add to the list this year. 60" ve ve guides and lights and pads.....
 
Welp that was fast!!! My man @mattschepker hooked me up. Another mod down! Thanks Matt, I really do appreciate it. :thumbsup:
 
I had the CE Smith guides and I the LED lights are important to you, that is what you will need. The longer the better. I bought 40" and ended up replacing the posts to about 55" later. I had pads and since it is stored indoors, they were still good when I sold re boat at 4 years old. The shirt guides will scratch the boat, and as mentioned,the taller will ride On the stainless rub rail. But on a steep ramp, the back of your trailer may be deep enough that the guides are below the rub rail alongside mid boat. So pads, however long they last are a good thing. Again, if you never use a steep ramp, this won't be an issue, as with 60", it shouldn't be anyway. My drive is winding and tree lined...and almost 200' long, plus downhill. Backing at night was 1000% easier with the lighted posts. One member even added backup floods on the trailer and that too would have benefited me when backing in solo at night. image.jpg
 
anybody had these that had the CE guides as well? I'm tired of dealing with the CE guides bending if you barely touch them....no strength to them at all and was wondering if the ve-ve's are better? Or is this something I'm going to have to deal with until I finally break the bank and get a wake boat?
 
My ve-ve's are pretty strong, they've been pressured pretty hard with the kids learning how to load/unload and I've not noticed any bend to them.
 
Our LX210s trailer had guides. Our SX230s trailer does not. I would not add them. Not having guides makes it much easier to negotiate tight ramps.
 
I have sort of debated taking them off as well, but I'm not sure if I want to do that. I do a pretty decent amount of trailering at night and I like the added visibility (have lights on mine as well). It also helps as a couple of our ramps can have a fairly hard crosswind...I don't think I need them, but every once in awhile somebody else loads the boat and it makes me a lot more comfortable when they do
 
I have sort of debated taking them off as well, but I'm not sure if I want to do that. I do a pretty decent amount of trailering at night and I like the added visibility (have lights on mine as well). It also helps as a couple of our ramps can have a fairly hard crosswind...I don't think I need them, but every once in awhile somebody else loads the boat and it makes me a lot more comfortable when they do

These Landing strip LED lights on the trailer more than make up for not having guides with lights.

When it is windy I leave the bunks a little further out of the water so that they do a better job of catching the hull.

LandingStrip.jpg
 
I am firmly in the "Guides are a must camp". . . . .have had my VeVe's for over 12 months, and put the CE Smith lamps on top. Never bent them, and they have been a great help on more than 1 occasion.
 
@jetboater4life Just wanted to verify... did you just drill through the step to install the clamp bolts and plates? I have that extended step like yours on my galvanized trailer.
@HidnNOS How long is that frame "nub" past the end of your step? I have one on mine and that's where I'd like to install it, but I don't think it'll be long enough.

Wy4QBxK.jpg
 
@smthng
Yes I just drilled through. I did it with the boat off the trailer. That lead to the problem of having the post sit right in front of the gas cap. There is enough give in the post so I can still fill, but I am going to drill to more holes on each side and move the post back. I painted and then coated my bolts in antizeize to protect them. Each season I need to tighten them up. I found that the bottom plate bends a little. I think they should have used thicker steel.
 
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