• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Upgraded Steering Linkage Bolts

Ok. Wait no more. Here is the final setup. The bolts are 18-8 stainless. M6 is not available in 303 stainless. So hopefully they'll stand up to salt water. If you keep them lubed, I don't see an issue.
Do you have part numbers for the correct hardware?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2711.jpg
    IMG_2711.jpg
    111.3 KB · Views: 28
Question, where did you obtain the bushing from? Is there a source or part number for them. I am also tired of the play in the wheel.
 
316 stainless is the better marine salt water grade. Mcmaster 90269A552 is M6-25 with .08 (coarse thread). 90269A564 is fine thread. Super expensive in black oxide, though. 90269A548 fine in regular finish. 90269A145 regular finish coarse thread. Still super expensive. Allen head. I wouldn't worry about the 18-8 (analogous to 304) though--it should be fine going in and out of the water. Its air that gives the stainless its rust fighting capabilities.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for posting this info. Just ordered a set of screws and bushing, appreciate it!
 
Reviving a semi-old thread to ask:

Anyone tried a clevis pin there instead of the bolt? Just ordered some SS pin assortment, but thinking that a clevis pin a) might let me fit it downward with the TV's (I have the same as OP, with the same issue of the TV's blocking the original bolt...), and b) a clevis pin would be much more handy when pulling the pump.

Thoughts? Anyone see a downside to trying this?
 
Reviving a semi-old thread to ask:

Anyone tried a clevis pin there instead of the bolt? Just ordered some SS pin assortment, but thinking that a clevis pin a) might let me fit it downward with the TV's (I have the same as OP, with the same issue of the TV's blocking the original bolt...), and b) a clevis pin would be much more handy when pulling the pump.

Thoughts? Anyone see a downside to trying this?

I'm not sure how much stress those bolts get, but there seems to be less material for the head of the clevis pin, both thickness and diameter, and the cotter pin would seem to be less material keeping everything secured

All those points may be fine, with some measurements of the clevis pin, and if the cotter pin is stainless too. It just seems less secure than a nut/bolt combo to me. Losing that clevis pin because the cotter pin broke for some reason would suck, even though it seems like it would be difficult to impossible for it to happen
 
Thanks, @drewkaree . Pretty sure the stress is more in the middle of the bolt and runs laterally. The steering cable pulls on the middle of the bolt now. So this is where I think the clevis is *more* material (as there is no thread). I agree the head is less, but there is no appreciable force up/down on it. And if I can get a clevis pin in from top to bottom, then the cotter pin (or the clip--which I think I'm more likely to try) on the bottom is just there to prevent the pin from 'hopping' out. The head of the clevis is only taking the force of the weight of the pin.

However, that said, certainly a fair point that it would be less secure than the nynut. Big question is whether we need as much as a nynut to prevent it from coming out. If I still have to have them upside down, I'll probably stick with the nynut way (not sure if I want to trust the cotter pin/clip as the sole point of failure--someone kicks it just right and the whole thing could fall off). But hoping without needing the extra length for the nut to go on I might be able to go back to putting it right-side up, which then means a double point of failure.

Does that make any sense?
 
Thanks, @drewkaree . Pretty sure the stress is more in the middle of the bolt and runs laterally. The steering cable pulls on the middle of the bolt now. So this is where I think the clevis is *more* material (as there is no thread). I agree the head is less, but there is no appreciable force up/down on it. And if I can get a clevis pin in from top to bottom, then the cotter pin (or the clip--which I think I'm more likely to try) on the bottom is just there to prevent the pin from 'hopping' out. The head of the clevis is only taking the force of the weight of the pin.

However, that said, certainly a fair point that it would be less secure than the nynut. Big question is whether we need as much as a nynut to prevent it from coming out. If I still have to have them upside down, I'll probably stick with the nynut way (not sure if I want to trust the cotter pin/clip as the sole point of failure--someone kicks it just right and the whole thing could fall off). But hoping without needing the extra length for the nut to go on I might be able to go back to putting it right-side up, which then means a double point of failure.

Does that make any sense?

Completely understand, I wasn't a fan of the upside down bolt either. I was looking for a socket head bolt, as you could get a ball end Allen key in there, when I first installed the TV's. In the interim, it never came up as a real problem, so I stopped looking.

Eventually, I'm hoping to have a solution from someone, or stumble across a more secure feeling pin/bolt/something
 
Back
Top