Huge Power Loss

[AboveTheBest]

I agree, and will do my best to resist selling it whole. This would probably be good information for the community, as it could show you what a bad pump bearing could lead to.

However, the closure for me will be seeing this boat move (without me tying the ski rope around my ankle and swimming it back to the dock, again).

 

[swatski]

I agree, and will do my best to resist selling it whole. This would probably be good information for the community, as it could show you what a bad pump bearing could lead to.

However, the closure for me will be seeing this boat move (without me tying the ski rope around my ankle and swimming it back to the dock, again).

Any updates on the engine post mortem?

I know you think it’s the crank case due to shaft vibrations, and I would assume you guys can rule out the timing chain breaking.
I just find it curious, given the rubber in the coupler. It would be good to know!

Edit: yeah, and how is that basement bar coming along? Lol

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[AboveTheBest]

@swatski, The bar and the weather have kept me from taking the old engine out.

I once I get the new one in I’ll focus on the autopsy for a full report!

 

[AboveTheBest]

I picked up the new engine last weekend in North Carolina from **REDACTED**

He was a pleasure to deal with and would be my #1 guy to work on a jet boat or ski if I lived within an hour of his shop. He had some seriously cool stuff in his shop, is an active PWC racer, and is very knowledgeable and passionate about his work.

The engine is sitting in my garage and I started getting the old 1.8 ready to pull out of the boat last night after work. I’ll be recruiting my neighbors to help me lift it out of the hull and then I’ll finish swapping over things likevthe exhaust manifold and whatever else that seems like it would be easier to do out of the boat.

The good news is that I may be able to recoup about half of the cost of the new engine when I part out the old one. **REDACTED** told me the head alone is worth $800-$1k

 

[Scottintexas]

I'm not going to bother going over the previous 6 pages but did you know itsdgm built a quick little gantry to remove his engine in the driveway?
it looks pretty easy,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/ar210-wont-start-and-rough-idle-update-solution.1279/page-5#post-145540

If I was going to pull with manpower I think I would attach lifting chains to two 2x4 and lift the lumber instead of trying to manhandle the engine itself,

 

[AboveTheBest]

I'm not going to bother going over the previous 6 pages but did you know itsdgm built a quick little gantry to remove his engine in the driveway?
it looks pretty easy,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/ar210-wont-start-and-rough-idle-update-solution.1279/page-5#post-145540

If I was going to pull with manpower I think I would attach lifting chains to two 2x4 and lift the lumber instead of trying to manhandle the engine itself,

I’ve seen that post and gave some thought to doing something similar.

I’m actually thinking that the tower is only about 2’ from being right over the engine, so I may hook a rope/pulley up to the two point and use it to help lower the new one into place (alone with two or three sets of hands).

I figure the tow point can pull my 200lbs up out of the water on a wakeboard or slalom ski, so it shouldn’t have any trouble supporting a 200lb engine.

 

[AboveTheBest]

Pulled the old engine out using an oak tree, arborist rope, pulley, and tractor.

Now I have to take both of the engines to the PWC shop to have the PTO couplers swapped because the new engine has a different tooth setup than the boat (they must have changed this in the boats between 2013 & 2016).

The shop is open Tuesday so I’ll drop it off then, and hopefully be ready for a water test this Saturday.

By the way, pulling an engine out of a 19’ is a piece of cake. It would probably be a lot harder in a twin 1.8.


My Dad and his tractor acting as the hoist

 

[AboveTheBest]

Between two returned clutch couplers (wrong sizes/patterns), and waiting for decent weather on a day off; the new engine is FINALLY in the 190!!

Fresh oil, plugs, and filter tomorrow, and after a battery charge it should be ready for a sea-trial.
I already listed it locally on Craigslist for $20k. Maybe ambitious, but it seems fair based off other listings I’ve seen recently.

I’m hoping the good weather will make this a quick sale, hopefully to a forum member!

One day soon I’ll be listing the old engine for sale with one caveat, the buyer must give me the post mortem on the lower half so I can give you all some closure on this debacle

 

[AboveTheBest]

What a joy this is turning out to be

Sea-Trial today @11:35am
Results:
Engine starts (+)
Engine knocks (-)

I’d say we’re neutral on the good-o-meter...

I called the guy who sold it to me and he said a bone-dry 1.8 actually needs 5.5qts, not 4qts, has anyone else ever heard that?

He says that a piston ring probably fried and that the lack of oil caused this.

I can buy that, except.... it started knocking IMMEDIATELY after the engine fires up. I hit 5500 rpms for a total of 3-seconds, besides that I was at 1500-2000 rpms for the rest of the whopping 60-seconds I had it running.

I talked to my local guy, who happens to know the guy I got the engine from, and I’m told there is no way I ruined a ring like that (with 4 qts of oil) unless I ripped around at around 7500 rpms back and forth on the lake for quite some time.

If I actually smoked the rings in 60-seconds, then you guys better watch out because low oil = instant engine death....


I’m trying to keep my cool, but after spending $3500 and driving 12-hours (each way) tonpick this engine up, I’m kind of frosty about the ordeal.

The guy is making it sound like he’s going to help me figure this out, and for that I will refrain from using his name negatively on this forum....

 

[I_squared_r]

Are you sure that the mechanic at the shop didn't misdiagnose that sound? You never confirmed that there was an issue with the old motor. I've seen mechanics misdiagnose all sorts of things and I was a mechanic for 7 years.

 

[AboveTheBest]

Are you sure that the mechanic at the shop didn't misdiagnose that sound? You never confirmed that there was an issue with the old motor. I've seen mechanics misdiagnose all sorts of things and I was a mechanic for 7 years.

While I appreciate the optimism (I think), the old engine is absolutely hosed, and this one is having issues also (different issues).

I think I have a way forward, and will be checking compression this weekend.

 

[swatski]

What a joy this is turning out to be

Sea-Trial today @11:35am
Results:
Engine starts (+)
Engine knocks (-)

I’d say we’re neutral on the good-o-meter...

I called the guy who sold it to me and he said a bone-dry 1.8 actually needs 5.5qts, not 4qts, has anyone else ever heard that?

He says that a piston ring probably fried and that the lack of oil caused this.

I can buy that, except.... it started knocking IMMEDIATELY after the engine fires up. I hit 5500 rpms for a total of 3-seconds, besides that I was at 1500-2000 rpms for the rest of the whopping 60-seconds I had it running.

I talked to my local guy, who happens to know the guy I got the engine from, and I’m told there is no way I ruined a ring like that (with 4 qts of oil) unless I ripped around at around 7500 rpms back and forth on the lake for quite some time.

If I actually smoked the rings in 60-seconds, then you guys better watch out because low oil = instant engine death....


I’m trying to keep my cool, but after spending $3500 and driving 12-hours (each way) tonpick this engine up, I’m kind of frosty about the ordeal.

The guy is making it sound like he’s going to help me figure this out, and for that I will refrain from using his name negatively on this forum....

I admire your restrain!
Im assuming you have the manual, I may have an electronic version of the 2012 190, or let me know if you ever need any pages scanned of the newer 2016 240 manual.

I’ll just say this: many in the ski world run the 1.8s low on oil deliberately - for whatever marginal power gains it gives. I’m not buying the 4qt on a dry engine is the issue hypothesis.

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[AboveTheBest]

@swatski I agree that the oil isn’t the issue.

My local guy is working on a resolution, with the original seller.

Hopefully I get some satisfaction and finish this, soon...

 

[AboveTheBest]

Update:

I checked the compression and my local guy thinks it’s a spun bearing.
I talked to the guy I bought it from my in NC, and told him there was no way I did this and the put the ball in his court.

He told me to put it on a pallet and he’d have it shipped to his shop, fix it, and send it back.
I’ll be pulling it out (again) this weekend and hopefully I get it all back in the boat by the end of the month...

Hey, there are probably people looking for boats in July too right...?

 

[swatski]

Update:

I checked the compression and my local guy thinks it’s a spun bearing.
I talked to the guy I bought it from my in NC, and told him there was no way I did this and the put the ball in his court.

He told me to put it on a pallet and he’d have it shipped to his shop, fix it, and send it back.
I’ll be pulling it out (again) this weekend and hopefully I get it all back in the boat by the end of the month...

Hey, there are probably people looking for boats in July too right...?

Darn, nothing is ever easy, huh. At least the seller seems responsive, that's always good.
Fingers crossed he can fix it!

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[AboveTheBest]

Darn, nothing is ever easy, huh. At least the seller seems responsive, that's always good.
Fingers crossed he can fix it!

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June 20th will be one year from when the other one broke...

 

[swatski]

June 20th will be one year from when the other one broke...

We should send a cake!


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[Scottintexas]

wondering about an update but have a couple questions and yes, I just reread all 7 pages and am glad you're enjoying the new boat!

96, but about 60 on new engine.

The previous owner forgot the plugs once and had to have the original engine replaced, luckily insurance covered it.

Do I understand this correctly,
first engine - original from factory was submerged and replaced by original owner
second engine - was found to have low compression after the pump bearing fiasco
third engine - purchased from **REDACTED** is thought to have seized main bearing

if this is correct,
do you know who and how the original engine was replaced? rebuild, SBT, donor from a ski ??

have you found what the problem was with #2 engine yet?

.

 

[AboveTheBest]

You pretty much got it.

Original engine: submerged and replaced by insurance.

Replacement engine: 7-page fiasco/destroyed crank housing. This was a Yamaha short block replaced by the dealer (Just Add Water in Indianapolis, who I do not recommend).

Third engine: bad piston ring, being fixed by seller. I’ve had some progress reports and hope to have it back soon, but man not bugging him since he’s doing me a huge favor by fixing it... I’ve bought plenty of things where the seller would just say “you’re on your own Pal”.


He mentioned he did tear into the 2nd engine, so hopefully I’ll get a rundown of exactly what went wrong.


The bliss offered by the new boat helps me to ignore the nightmare that is the old boat

 

[2kwik4u]

Thanks for the update. I was going to ask for one when I got home.

I'm really really curious how a spun bearing in the pump can lead to low compression.

Also, was there any consideration in taking #2 to a local machine shop and having them reverse engineer/rebuild the thing? It's a DOHC 4cyl like any other you would find in a modern day automobile. Crank/Rods/Pistons/Rings/Cams/Bearings should all be very similar. Exhaust, Intake, and accessories will be a little different, but shouldn't be anything a machine shop can't handle. Never hear of anyone doing that for boat engines, and I'm really not sure why.