Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Welcome to Jetboaters.net!
We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!
Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)
Do you think spraying the inside with a rubberized coating would have helped? Flex Seal Plasti Dip Rustoleum rubber paint or something like that? I think I recall that you had to drill the boxes, or was that another project?
Those rubber surrounds help, but salt water seems to have a knack for helping itself cause more and more damage over time
Yes I had to drill holes for mounting and draining water. I didn’t spray the insides with anything other than paint. The rust wasn’t to the point that the integrity of the boxes was in question, just could see where it was coming out of a couple seams. Undercoating inside may have helped them from the light rust but a little bit of a rattle can a couple times a year made them still look new.
Didn't do this today, posting up a past project for @AZMark. Swapped the Shorelander OEM incandescent trailer lights for replacement LED versions from Amazon.
I would recommend LOW for your heat gun, or get a smaller wand-type of heat gun. I didn't have the wand type, and this was the first time I used these solder connectors. Pics show too much heat on the white wire. I added a half-round attachment to the heat gun, and turned it to low, and this project is what prodded me to get a wand-style heat gun for future electrical projects on the boat and for tight spaces.
I had thought that I added heat shrink over the connection as well, but pics show that I didn't. I did cut the wires of the old light to leave myself as much wire as possible for future repairs or replacement. Everything just shoves back into the trailer frame. Bolts match up with the OEM lights, so no drilling was required
Replaced factory stern all-around (anchor) light with this taller unit to clear new dome radar. Drilled out rivet you can see in the pic and put pole on the base of the factory (Perko) unit so I didn’t have to drill new holes in T-Top.
Cheers
Randy
