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Huge Power Loss

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I took off the cone and a rush of water, metal shavings, and ball bearings came out of the pump.

Hopefully this didn’t cause any more failures forward of the pump, but I still need to remove the shaft, which is proving to be a very difficult process. The sledge and metal pipe are no longer an option, as I’m too afraid to mess up the impeller or the wear ring.

I think we’re going to try hooking up a strap and pulling it with a truck, but that will have to wait till tomorrow when we get some sunshine.
 
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This is pretty much what I expected after seeing your very first photo the other day. The challenge you have now is there is no bearing for the washer/nut to hold when temporarily reassembling the pump to pull the shaft. (If you wanted to use the pry bar technique.)

You can try your truck/strap pull idea. It will likely pop loose. But again, beware that you are also pulling on the intermediate shaft that is only pressed into the intermediate housing. You could end up pulling the intermediate shaft too far back in the housing.

Just make sure the stator housing and impeller don't go crashing onto the concrete!

Inside the boat, if there is a PTO cover, remove it. While you are pulling with the truck/strap, have someone watch the space between each PTO couplers to make sure the shaft is not pulling out the back of the boat.

The good news is it's very likely your pump is rebuildable for <$100 using genuine Yamaha bearings and seals.

-Greg
 
Text me if you need to find stuff around too man!
Two true values in town. I believe brothers own them. I live closer to the west one. Jeff is great and can find stuff.
North point marina had some yamaha parts before but it's been a while. You can call them to see what they have.
Good idea to watch from above as well @boudin i am usually solo in my endeavours but more eyes are always better!
If you need a spline tool for the shaft to remove impeller (if you get that far) let me know. Might be the same as my older style, i don't know
 
I've already paid a visit to the one near Zip Mart, ubtk will probably be heading back this afternoon to get a bigger pry bar.

My plan is to get it apart and then bring the whole assembly to a place back home to get the bearings pressed.
 
I read the thread linked above and will be giving this another shot.

From other things I’ve read on Greenhulk getting the shaft out can be a real nightmare.

@Murf'n'surf did you use the metal bar on the lip of the impeller or the impeller itself?
There doesn’t seem to be a lot of material to beat on. I’m worried that too much Force will rip the impeller right off the threads.
 
Congrats. Are you planning to do the work yourself or take it to a shop?

-Greg
 
If I had a shop press I might be inclined to tackle it myself, but since I don’t coupled with this being smack-dab in the middle of boating season, I’ll probably try to drop it off at the local powersports place tomorrow.

I’m not sure what kind of price to expect, but I can’t imagine it would be that significant to replace the bearings and seals.
 
Fantastic! Are the splines on the shaft okay? will the spline/shaft tool fit on?

--
 
Good to see that you got it out
 
The splines look just fine and I would assume there will be no issue with the tool.

Thanks again to @Speedling for helping me out last week. I think we plan on going back to Cedar Lake next year, maybe we’ll see you again (under better circumstances).

After reading a few of the threads on greenhulk linked in @Bruce’s thread on replacing the grease with oil, I honk I might do the bearings myself.
The freezer method seems pretty simple and several people chimes in with similar results.

I’ll still be giving the local repair shop a call tomorrow though to get a quote.
 
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Sorry for my delayed response. Yes, hit the metal lip.

My bearings were seized to the shaft and I had to replace the shaft and bearings. My labor cost was minimal compared to the cost of parts.
 
The repair kit and shaft tool are ordered and should arrive next week.

My plan is to take the impeller off and bring the shop the pump and shaft and let them deal with pressing the bearings and reassembly.

I’ll also be taking my L13 Cone over to my machinist buddy to have it drilled and tapped for a drain plug so I can switch to oil instead of grease. I would do it myself with a hand drill, but at $300 I don’t want to chance messing up the cone.

With any luck I’ll have the whole thing back together by next weekend so I can get back on the water.
 
I thought I was doing pretty good ordering the bearing kit for $35. Turns out I ordered the wrong one...

Sounds like I just added a few days to my repair.
 
Between work and waiting for parts to come in it’s been over a month since my pump bearings came apart, but thankfully I have a fully assembled pump ready to go back in the boat tomorrow (weather depending).

I lost all of July, but am looking forward to a good August and September skiing on the lake!
 
Went out yesterday and had about 5 minutes of pure boating bliss before problems started again.
When I first backed it off the trailer I heard a “clunk” as I applied power, but it wasn’t followed by any other noises or problems.

It seemed like it was a bit underpowered and when I took off across the lake it started losing power and bogging down the engine.

Fast forward through 30 minutes of me with a ski rope tied around my chest swimming the boat back to the ramp...

I got it home and took the pump out this morning and took the cone off to make sure the noise I heard wasn’t a bearing exploding or impeller snapping. I changed the oil and pump new plugs in (just because I had them), and ran the boat with the pump removed for 5-minutes. No power loss or any other indications, which means the problem is somewhere outside the boat (thank God).

The impeller housing(s) are both deeply grooves by the impeller, and I’m assuming this is the cause of my new problem (pic below).

I’m getting ready to order the two housings and maybe even a new impeller, but I’m afraid the problem may be with an improperly aligned intermediate bearing. If I replace the housings and something is skewed it could ruin the new parts as well.


Anybody have any suggestions?

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We’re in the middle of our family vacation and this morning after trying to pull me up from the depths on a slalom ski my boat started making a whining noise at all RPM’s.

It lost a little power but still pulled me and others fine all morning, but when we loaded up with 8 adults to go to the restaraunt on the lake it felt like I’d gone into some kind of limp mode.

Even though the Tach read 7500 it sounded more like 4000 and the boat would hardly move at all.

Then it died, and after restarting it the boat died again about 60 seconds later.

Then the battery didn’t have enough juice to turn it over and I had to swim it back to our dock.

Does anyone have any idea what’s going on? I feel like the whining and initial power loss was due to air entering the pump, but that doesn’t account for the loss of volts and the shutdowns... or does it?
Have them check timing chain. My boat did the same, the throttle would not respond and was sluggish. When boat cut off I could only get high pitch whining sound and would not turn over no matter how many attempts to restart. I hope you don’t have the same problem. My boat was In shop for 2 months this summer. Under warranty though.
 
I’m hopeful that’s not it, as the boat ran fine when hooked up to the hose in the yard with the pump removed.
 
Have them check timing chain. My boat did the same, the throttle would not respond and was sluggish. When boat cut off I could only get high pitch whining sound and would not turn over no matter how many attempts to restart. I hope you don’t have the same problem. My boat was In shop for 2 months this summer. Under warranty though.
P.S. when I pulled out of slip I heard a clunk. Then began to act normal. Boat ran for 20 minutes beginning to act sluggish before it died.
 
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